Finishing the Front and Back

[Derek Cohen]

We left off last time with the drawers completed - coplaner with one another, and then finished in white shellac (Ubeaut).


It was was nice to work at a relaxed pace this weekend, since the goal was to install the drawer handles, wax the drawers (Renaissance), and complete the rear of the carcase. All nice and easy.


The panel for the rear is 1/4" thick Makore, as are the carcase frame-and-panel sides. I made the panel at the start of the build. It had begun as one of the side panels, but it lacked any figure, and consequently I set it aside for the rear of the carcase. This was finished inside with wax and outside with Livos Universal Wood Oil (an Aussie product), which was used on the all the other parts of the carcase.


The panel is secured with nails into the frame. The panel can move laterally via widened (drilled) nail holes. There is a coved attached moulding that tidies up the fitting. The cove matches the cove that is part of the frame-and-panel sides (which were shaped into the frames).


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/1a_zpstxdxgfo9.jpg


I got to use my restored mitrebox :)


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/2a_zpsfrkphlng.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/3-1a_zpsfijptznz.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/4a_zpsjqaiysov.jpg


Before the rear could be done, the handles needed to be attached to the drawers. The handles had been a major headache for a long time. I knew what I wanted but could not find ready-made versions. I hunted everywhere like an obsessed dervish!. I was about to build them in Jarrah (my wife's choice to go with the Jarrah drawer fronts) when I found them about 6 weeks ago on eBay! According to the advert they are "antique bronze".


After building a template, and carefully marking, triple checking measurements, I drilled the holes and screwed them on ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/6a_zpshp0li3ib.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/7a_zpsn7vxmuz4.jpg


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/8a_zps1iyvecx1.jpg


What do you think?


Here is a side. The bow is very subtle, softening the profile ...


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/9a_zpslia39wca.jpg


What's there to do? Well, I am starting on the top section. The chest needs a crown moulding. This will hide a lid. Raising the lid will reveal a mirror on the underside, plus a recess to place jewellery or cosmetics. The recess will be leather lined.


Then there are jewellery trays to fit (also leather lined). This will go in the top drawer ..


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/10-1a_zpsdac1fi7o.jpg


All the drawers have good extension, held horizontal by the last 1 1/2" -2".


Until the top is done ...


Regards from Perth


Derek

[James Pallas]

Derek, having followed this build from the beginning I know it is a very well executed piece of work. The design is well thought out and it looks great. I'm really anxious to see the completion, top and all. The pulls are just OK to me they don't hurt or help. Nice work, excellent write ups, fun to watch. What's next?
Jim

[John Kananis]

Gorgeous. I really enjoy your threads.

[Mike Holbrook]

Beautiful work Derek,

I would be afraid for my wife to have such a beautiful piece of furniture. I am guessing your wife does not have a few German Shepherds, or frolicking Lancashire Heelers, trying to steal toys & chewies off the furniture all day long?

[Robert Hazelwood]

That is terrific Derek. I was wondering what you would choose for drawer pulls, and those are perfect. Lovely patina that offers some contrast, and a clean design that echoes the curves of the piece.

Once you wrap it up, I hope you are able to get some really good photographs of this piece. I think it will need careful lighting and a clean background for the shape to really come alive in pictures.

[Prashun Patel]

Flawless and inspiring. Thanks, Derek. Do you have any pics of how you implement drawer stops on the front and depth stops so your drawers flush up to the face frame when closed? My own technique feels rickety and I'm sure you have solved this elegantly.

[Derek Cohen]

That is terrific Derek. I was wondering what you would choose for drawer pulls, and those are perfect. Lovely patina that offers some contrast, and a clean design that echoes the curves of the piece.

Once you wrap it up, I hope you are able to get some really good photographs of this piece. I think it will need careful lighting and a clean background for the shape to really come alive in pictures.

Thanks Robert ... and there was I thinking my low light photography had improved! :) I need a very large light tent.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Flawless and inspiring. Thanks, Derek. Do you have any pics of how you implement drawer stops on the front and depth stops so your drawers flush up to the face frame when closed? My own technique feels rickety and I'm sure you have solved this elegantly.

Nothing really elegant, Prashun. The drawer fronts are also a drawer stop ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers_html_m62a62f63.jpg



The lower lip of the drawer front butts against the drawer blade. They cannot move further back.

This is why it was necessary to flush the fronts of the drawers (plane them coplanar).

It is better to have drawer stops at the front of the drawer than the rear. The less opportunity for expansion, the less variation in drawer movement.

If building inset drawers, I would measure the thickness of the drawer front, then mark this point on the drawer blade. Against this marked depth I would chisel a 1" mortice at each side end of the drawer (about 2" in). These 2 mortices would hold a shallow peg. The height of the pegs would be less than the base of the drawer. As a result, the drawer could run over the pegs but the rear of the drawer front would stop against it.

Below is a simple drawing. The orange is the mortice, as well as an L-shaped drawer stop if you use a through mortice. Hope this makes sense ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/Finishing%20the%20carcase/drawer-stop_zpsypsqedck.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jerry Olexa]

Beautiful wood..Good work!!!