Opinion--Push or Pull Float

[Chad Johnson]

Any preferences on a push versus a pull float? Am going to pick up a couple floats and cannot decide. Mainly will use to clean up mortises.

[Steve Voigt]

I'm not sure exactly what floats you want (joinery or planemaking?), or what kind of mortises you are working, but in general push floats are more useful. It is harder to be aggressive with a pull float. Also, if you are working a blind mortise, a pull float will not work all the way to the bottom.

[Jeff Heath]

I find times when a pull float is required, so I wouldn't want to be without either. I think Steve is right that you will use a push float more, but there are times when you're trying to avoid a blowout where a pull float is the better option.

Start with what you can afford, and add to it as needed, if your work can wait while it gets shipped to you. If you're making planes, it will happen. For joinery, there are other options, but floats are my "go-to" now that I own them, for most trimming jobs where control is desired.

[Stewie Simpson]

Chad. The set of cabinetmaker floats I have are all toothed to cut on the forward stroke.

Stewie;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Cabinetmaker%20Floats/SDC10672.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/Cabinetmaker%20Floats/SDC10672.jpg.html)

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/Cabinetmaker%20Floats/SDC10679.jpg (http://s1009.photobucket.com/user/swagman001/media/Cabinetmaker%20Floats/SDC10679.jpg.html)

[Luke Dupont]

Consider the orientation of your grain. If you are working on a slope down a 45 degree angle, for instance, you'll want a push, or you'll be going up against the grain.

Even files, rasps, and saws do care about angle and orientation to the grain, albeit they don't usually create tear-out.