Cabinet Back

[George Bokros]

Part of the closet organizer I am building will have an open area that will be ~ 58" wide and I am planning to use 1/4 maple ply for the back. Now for the problem, ply is only 48" wide so it will be ~10" shy of the full width. The grain must run vertical so changing orientation of the piece is not an option. I am not sure how or if I could piece it. If I was to piece it where would you put the joint (center or have two joints 5" from each outside panel) and how would you hide the joint keeping it inconspicuous?

How would you handle this?


Thanks

If I had a plywood stretcher I could take a piece of 1/2" ply and stretch it to 60" wide but I have been unable to find a plywood stretcher. It is probably as illusive and the famed shelf stretcher we used when I worked in retail grocery .

[Jesse Busenitz]

I would probably put the joint in the middle and just cover it with a thin piece of matching solid wood.

[Martin Wasner]

I'd throw a mullion in the back and just staple the back to it.

[Sam Murdoch]

There are 5' sheet products available out there but I guess for one sheet - unless your local lumber yard carries them - you would pay a premium. Still the extra work will demand some cost too.

But - to your specific question - a few options:

1) Joint in the center with a 3" batten glued on the back side, if you have the clearance.

2) You could add a flat 1/2 round on the inside too to cover the seam and play it up (slightly) as a detail. Not so inconspicuous but REAL. Maybe run an 1/4 round around the perimeter of the back to justify the center 1/2 round.

3) Add a 5-1/2" x 3/4" frame around the inside outside with the 1/4" panel rabbeted into that interior frame.

[George Bokros]

Add a 5-1/2" x 3/4" frame around the inside outside with the 1/4" panel rabbeted into that interior frame.

This sounds like a workable idea. Make the frame and put a profile on the inside edge such as a cove and bead or even just a bead. This would be like making a flat panel door with wide rails and stiles.

[Martin Wasner]

Then just make a paneled back for the whole thing. We do that all the time on locker cabinets

[Mark Wooden]

Use a 1/2" back and spline/bisquit/domino the joint, sand and finish

[Kevin McCluney]

I once pieced together 1/4" red oak veneered plywood for wainscoting. It was stained, so the joint had to be as invisible as possible. I rabbetted each of the adjoining pieces and glued them together. The overlap was maybe 1/4".

[Mark W Pugh]

Use a 1/2" back and spline/bisquit/domino the joint, sand and finish

I have joined ply, you always see the joint. If that is not a big issue, then go for it.

can the back be painted?

[Greg R Bradley]

Use 60" plywood. Why complicate it?

[Bruce Wrenn]

Not cheap, but veneer ply is available with grain oriented the other way. But it's out of my clients reach price wise.

[Warren Moore]

You didn't indicate how long it needs to be. Baltic birch 1/4" equivalent (6 MM) plywood is 60" x 60" and it is not at overly priced if you live in a moderately sized town. Woodcraft has it for about $21.00

[George Bokros]

The length of the panel in question is ~ 18". I thought about using Baltic Birch but the cabinet is all made of maple and maple ply so I am concerned about the finish matching. It is a stained finish with poly top coat. I am thinking about making a test piece of Baltic Birch to see how the finish would match.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[George Bokros]

1) Joint in the center with a 3" batten glued on the back side, if you have the clearance.

2) You could add a flat 1/2 round on the inside too to cover the seam and play it up (slightly) as a detail. Not so inconspicuous but REAL. Maybe run an 1/4 round around the perimeter of the back to justify the center 1/2 round.

3) Add a 5-1/2" x 3/4" frame around the inside outside with the 1/4" panel rabbeted into that interior frame.

I think I will use suggestion number 1. I will put a small piece of mullion over the joint on the face side. I thought about option 3 but the length of the panel is only ~15" so a frame 5" wide would over power the whole area.

[Keith Pleas]

Stile in the middle of the back? Originally thought 10", then realized it could be any width.

[Rod Sheridan]

George, I would buy a larger sheet of plywood...........Rod.

[George Bokros]

George, I would buy a larger sheet of plywood...........Rod.

I would love to but I cannot find any 1/4" ply other than Baltic Birch that is 5 ft wide. I did find 3/4" and 1" 5 ft wide but not 1/4".

[Tom Ewell]

Just another chance to add a design element I suppose.
Some of my closets included dividers spaced on open shelves to accommodate folded clothing or footwear.
Cover the seams with dividers if allowed for the project.
Use multiple strips of mullion to create a 'board and batten' look.
Groove the ply and disguise the seam as one of them (bead board look)
Butt the seam together, throw in a couple of 'bowtie' Dutchmen as a decorative element.
Throw in several small bowties and create a dovetail look.

[Bill McNiel]

1) Baltic birch will finish "close enough" to maple that you probably will not see the difference, especially since the materials are in different orientations (ie. perpendicular to each other / back to sides).

2) I just completed a walnut breakfront with the same width issue (5' +) and joined together two pieces of 1/2" veneered ply with #4 dominos and the seam is virtually invisible.

3) If you choose to have seams use the 20-60-20 rule and have three panels, wide one in the middle.

[Lloyd Kerry]

I think I will use suggestion number 1. I will put a small piece of mullion over the joint on the face side. I thought about option 3 but the length of the panel is only ~15" so a frame 5" wide would over power the whole area.


What George said.

[Brian Tymchak]

Just thinking out loud here. What about cutting a piece of ply to fit and then veneering the show side with a nice maple? Could even put a nice bookmatch on there to spice it up a bit.

[Jim Becker]

I wouldn't try and join the plywood...I'd buy a piece of baltic birch that comes in ~60" square and create a one-piece back. Or do a traditional tongue and grove back like I'm utilizing on my buffet/hutch project.

[jack duren]

On most kitchen islands over 4' wide its pretty common to glue two pieces of 3/4 back together(same sheet) to make whatever width is needed. Just have to be good at making the seam the same level so you can sand without going through the veneer...