Cermark 6000 vs 6060

[Jeff Body]

Yes I've searched. I've only been able to find 3-4 references to 6060 and no one has provided a good comparison.
Most of the posts are 2 years old.
1 post someone started to compare the 2 but then found out his laser was dying.


What's the latest comparison between Cermark 6000 vs 6060. I'm hoping after 2 years someone has some good info to share.

[Keith Winter]

I think ceramark has been out for over 12 years, same formula, so all those 2 year old posts should be relevant. Can I have is 6000 works well.

This thread might help you:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?219244-Cermark-lmm6000-or-lmm-6060

[Kev Williams]

I know nothing about 6060-- Laserbits says its the 'next generation' Cermark- what puzzles me is that they say it's 'water based' but you thin it with DNA? If it's water-based, why can't you thin it with water? If so, I'd likely try it, even though it's nearly double the price ($200/250g vs $250/500g) of the 6000. I probably spend $50 or $60 on DNA thinning a 500g bottle (mostly due to evaporation), thinning with water would definitely offset that cost. Water is kryptonite to 6000, but it's water soluble, not water-BASED.

Anyway, I'm not any help, just curious myself! :)

[Keith Downing]

I chased this around a bit a few months ago in my own thread about Cermark vs Thermark. Ended up going with the LMM 6000 and it worked fine.

They seem to be a bit of a mess as a company in general though. This is from the Thermark site (which is supposed to be the same company that makes Cermark and Ferro products now):

Complete Product List

If you know which product you are looking for, please use the links below for easy access to that product. If you need help determining which product to use, please visit our Marking Solutions (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/14/78/) section for more assistance.

Black on Metal


LMM14 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/35/78/) - General purpose, aerosol & liquid ink
LMM6000 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/36/78/) - General purpose, aerosol & paste ink
LMM6018.LF (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/38/78/) - General purpose & anodized, self-adhesive paper-backed tape
LMM6038 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/39/78/) - Alternative for high shine metal, paste ink
LMM6904 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/137/78/) - Alternative for anodized aluminum, liquid ink


Black on Glass


LMC6044P (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/42/80/) - Liquid ink (new, replaces LMC12 for glass/ceramic)


Black on Plastic


LMC12 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/41/80/) - Liquid ink
LMP500 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/92/80/) - Pad print ink


One Color on Glass/Ceramic (all liquid ink)


LMC94 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/83/83/) - Imitation Etch White
LMC98 (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/84/83/) - Bright White
LMC6001P (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/78/83/) - Bronze (new, replaces LMC28)
LMC6013P (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/80/83/) - Blue (new, replaces LMC48)
LMC6062P (http://www.thermark.com/content/view/81/83/) - Green (new, replaces LMC62)

[Keith Downing]

Also found this on a site called cermarksales.com (although it doesn't seem directly related to the manufacturer):

LMM-6000 is a laser marking material for metals. LMM-6000 is ethanol based product, which allows for a fast drying time. Due to the flammability of the LMM-6000 there are HAZARDOUS shipping cost applied.


LMM-6060 is a laser marking material for metals. LMM-6060 is a specifically formulated water based product designed to perform the same as the LMM-6000, LMM-6038 and LMM-6012. The LMM-6060 is an all-in-one metal marking product. The LMM-6060 will have NO HAZARDOUS shipping cost.

[Jeff Body]

I think ceramark has been out for over 12 years, same formula, so all those 2 year old posts should be relevant. Can I have is 6000 works well.

This thread might help you:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?219244-Cermark-lmm6000-or-lmm-6060


Keith that is the post I'm referring too. There's nothing good there.
Mike Null states his findings are inconclusive because of the state of his laser. And the OP failed on his first attempt but never posted back if he was successful.

I know 6000 is the old time favorite. I'm just hoping to hear if anyone has experience with the LM6060 and knows how it compares to LM6000.

[Keith Downing]

I know nothing about 6060-- Laserbits says its the 'next generation' Cermark- what puzzles me is that they say it's 'water based' but you thin it with DNA? If it's water-based, why can't you thin it with water? If so, I'd likely try it, even though it's nearly double the price ($200/250g vs $250/500g) of the 6000. I probably spend $50 or $60 on DNA thinning a 500g bottle (mostly due to evaporation), thinning with water would definitely offset that cost. Water is kryptonite to 6000, but it's water soluble, not water-BASED.

Anyway, I'm not any help, just curious myself! :)

My GUESS is that they found a formula that was water based that they could ship and THEN have you add the DNA; which is probably still necessary to spray or paint it on and have it dry evenly once thinned.

So the real difference would be one is a hazardous material being shipped and one isn't. That's just my random guess though.

[Keith Winter]

My GUESS is that they found a formula that was water based that they could ship and THEN have you add the DNA; which is probably still necessary to spray or paint it on and have it dry evenly once thinned.

So the real difference would be one is a hazardous material being shipped and one isn't. That's just my random guess though.


Sounds like a good guess!

[Bill Cunningham]

I have been using ordinary methylhydrate from the local hardware store to thin Lm6000 scavenged from spray cans and overspray for years now, with no problems, and it works fine. More expensive purer DNA is a waste of money!

[Mark Sipes]

DNA is used so you don't have to wait an hour for the spray to dry......

.

[mitch stephens]

Can anyone add to this post with recent info
Thanks Mitch

[Kev Williams]

Not much from me other than I just bought my 5th 500gm bottle of 6000 since this thread ended. Been engraving acres of stainless flawlessly, so I see no reason look for a greener pasture ;)

[Scott Shepherd]

Plus I wouldn't want to spray a water based product on my customers metal. Last thing I need is 100 parts with rust stains on them.

[mitch stephens]

Not much from me other than I just bought my 5th 500gm bottle of 6000 since this thread ended. Been engraving acres of stainless flawlessly, so I see no reason look for a greener pasture ;)

How do you apply it
Thanks Mitch

[Kev Williams]

I posted up a video of how I do it not long ago, here's a link-
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253311-Foam-brushing-Cermark-video&highlight=

[mitch stephens]

I posted up a video of how I do it not long ago, here's a link-
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253311-Foam-brushing-Cermark-video&highlight=

Thanks Kev

[Tim Bateson]

That's the way I do it, but with a cheap throw away sponge brush that I pay $1 for and get several uses out of. I use LMM6038 & LMM14 because they are so much more tolerant of thickness.... Apply thick or thin or even a run or two and you still get perfect results every time. Great on shiny metal like chrome too.

[Ian Stewart-Koster]

I had to laugh; I've thinned the bottle of old dry Cermark I was given, with water, when methylated spirits (alcohol) didn't work.
It takes longer to dry but is fine.

Then I read on this forum that you're thinninh it with DNA.
Well another on forum I used to frequent, DNA is a euphemism for spit/saliva.
So I was wondering how you can add so much of YOUR OWN dna or saliva to Cermark... getting a teaspoon is hard work!
not realising it was meant to mean denatured alcohol!

Thanks!