Tool heating up

[Robert Engel]

Total newbie here.

Was messing around yesterday and using a 1/8" parting tool I noticed it heating up a point of turning the tip brown.

I'm assuming this is because it need sharpening, but thought I'd pose it here anyway.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

How deep were you going? If you go deeper than an inch or so, cut an extra kerf right next to your cut, about half your tool width to let the chips out and make things way easier.

[Reed Gray]

They can get dull like any other tool, so that could be one reason. If you are going more than about 1/2 inch deep, you need to open the kerf a bit, for me, that means 1 1/2 times or if the tool is 1/8 inch wide open up another 1/16 or so. Main reason is that you can seldom plunge perfectly straight in, and then the sides start to rub. This can make it smoke, and burn the sides. The brown is most likely from the wood heating up. Mine all have some brown and black on them. If there is any pitch or resin at all in the wood that makes for most of the color. There are a few parting tools like D Way has, that are wider on the top so the binding in the kerf is less.

Another possible reason is that you want to do a peeling cut instead of just a straight in plunge cut. Start by rubbing the bevel, and raise the handle until it starts to cut. As the cut goes deeper, you have to raise the handle to keep in the peeling position. Less friction with this cut.

robo hippy

[Robert Engel]

You guys are good.

Yes, I was parting down close to 1" deep.

Its a new tool I know needs sharpening but I don't have a grinding jig yet and just got anxious to do something.

I'm open for suggestions on that, too. I've seen the wolverine jig as well as some homemade.

[John K Jordan]

You can sharpen a parting tool with a bench grinder without any sharpening jig. Just set the angle of the tool rest to match the existing tool angle and hold the tool steady. I like to darken the tool bevel with a blue Sharpie first then rotate the wheel a little by hand before grinding to make sure the angle is set right.

You can also hone the edge a time or two with a diamond hone or any kind of flat stone before resharpening on a grinder.

But I agree with others - if you didn't widen the kerf a little the friction from the sides can make the parting tool very hot. It can also be dangerous if it grabs suddenly. Just start the parting maybe a 1/4" deep or so, then back out the tool and make another cut just a little bit to the side and to the same depth. Then repeat for more depth.

JKJ

[Reed Gray]

Robert, we are good because we have all done that many times before..... From Will Rogers, "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from, well, bad judgement." We just saved you the trouble of figuring it out on your own. If you can find a close by club, join. Best learning experience ever...

robo hippy