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Joe McMahon
04-03-2016, 4:09 PM
I am building an arts and crafts armoire using QSWO. I have purchased some veneer with decorative inlay. The inlay will cover both stiles. The veneer and substrate are both QSWO. I plan on using Tightbond III as my glue, applying it with a roller


My questions are, 1. Do I need to use a piece of veneer on the opposite side of the stile to balance moisture , and 2. Should I put glue on the substrate and on the veneer or just on one surface? I plan on putting a piec of MDF on top and using clamps.

Brian Holcombe
04-03-2016, 4:14 PM
How thick are the materials that you are working with?

Joe McMahon
04-03-2016, 8:20 PM
They are 5/4

Jeffrey Martel
04-04-2016, 12:36 PM
Yes I would put veneer on the opposite side. For 5/4 material well supported you probably won't have an issue, but I've seen 3/4" ply get a slight bow in it after veneering.

Can you get titebond's cold press glue? It's thicker than normal glue. Titebond II and III is a bit thinner and sometimes will make its way through veneer. Probably not an issue on QSWO, but still something I'd rather not risk myself. I use hide glue now for veneering.

Pat Barry
04-04-2016, 12:51 PM
I am building an arts and crafts armoire using QSWO. I have purchased some veneer with decorative inlay. The inlay will cover both stiles. The veneer and substrate are both QSWO. I plan on using Tightbond III as my glue, applying it with a roller


My questions are, 1. Do I need to use a piece of veneer on the opposite side of the stile to balance moisture , and 2. Should I put glue on the substrate and on the veneer or just on one surface? I plan on putting a piec of MDF on top and using clamps.
Thats a great question...If you are putting the veneer on one side of a solid core and its the same material you probably don't need to do the other side. Typically th question has to do with veneer over something like MDF. There the unbalanced construction can cause an issue but over a solid core with the same material?? I tend to think it won't be a problem.

Jeff Heath
04-04-2016, 2:34 PM
I've done plenty of cabinet door work where I veneered bookmatched panels for doors. I always balanced the panel with a veneer of similar species material on the back side. You don't have to use your expensive figured veneer on the backside, but use the same thickness as you applied to the "show" side. I'm speaking of solid stock here, not plywood. For instance, using crotch walnut veneer over a solid 5/8" thick glue up of walnut, with a backer veneer of plainsawn walnut. Then, I'd run the panels in the shaper to make raised panels, or if flat panel is used, I'd profile the back side and leave the show side flat.

Please note that I'm talking about shop sawn veneer here, that I'd resaw myself at about 1/8", and plane, scrape, &/or sand down to about 3/32". I've never used commercially sawn 1/40" veneer, so I can't speak to it's effects in this situation, and whether or not you should balance it. I would, personally, anyway, just to be safe.

Joe McMahon
04-04-2016, 3:05 PM
I am using commercial 1/40 veneer. As I mentioned, it is for 5/4 styles which are 6" wide. I would hazard a guess that since it is so thick and only 6" wide and the veneer is so thin, I might get away with just the front side??