Sawstop blade guard dust collection - DIY overarm advice

[Guy Dotan]

I recently bought a 36" 3HP PCS. I am looking for elegant ways to connect the dust collecting blade guard to my central DC without purchasing the overhead arm. Any advice and/or links to the fittings, hose, etc. would be greatly appreciated!

Guy.

[Jim Dwight]

I do not know anything about the saw stop saw other than what I've read. But I really like my Bosch 5 meter hose - and it is a good price. You will improve suction by using PVC pipe as much as possible, however. I don't know if it would be rigid enough to span however long your rip capacity is. I would start by trying to rig something with PVC pipe. If you can find pipe or fittings about the right size, you can mold the PVC by heating it with a heat gun. If you need to increase rigidity of the PVC you could always tape on a metal angle iron or tube.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I have seen it where the split is up high and support from the ceiling. Kind of drops down on top of the blade guard vs being supported horizontally across the table. Someone on here has a setup like that, although it was with a shark guard, I just can't remember who? I can't seem to be able to find it for you, but it was for a SS PCS.

[Raymond Seward]

I've seen them with a 2 1/2" Y off the 4" inlet....The hose is exactly the correct length for that setup....HTH's

[Ben Rivel]

I thought about doing that for a bit, started piecing it together in my head, coming up with elegant ways to set it up and keep it clear from the cutting table so it didnt get in the way while cutting. Then I said forget it and just bought the SawStop one. Its nice, clean, matching, works well and is already done for you.

[Frank Pratt]

I have the same saw & just dropped a 2 1/2" flex from the duct overhead down to a reducer at the saw guard. works very well.

[Alan Lichty]

Don't purchase the overhead arm. I just bought a 1.5HP PCS with the overhead arm as part of their current sale. I added the dust collector blade guard as part of my purchase with the overhead arm to be delivered as sort of a rebate at a later date. I wanted to try the saw out immediately so I hooked up my shop vac w/dust deputy to the dust collection blade guard using a 35mm hose hung from my ceiling and 4" cabinet dust collection to my DC. Worked great. Almost dust free rips with reasonable results for cross cuts.

Got the overhead arm from Saw Stop within two days (nice) but once I got it installed discovered that it wasn't anywhere near as nice as what I had been doing with the direct connection for the overhead. The Saw Stop overhead collector is now sitting on a shelf.

[Guy Dotan]

Thanks all. The bosch hose looks great. Where can I get a dust port "y" adapter?

[Bill Sutherland]

I did the same as Alan L using my overhead extension arm from my Festool vac and dust deputy all hooked to the dust collection blade guard. I used the small hose on my Festool vac and will change it to the larger 36mm. I also hooked my Shopsmith dust collector to the 4" outlet on the Sawstop. I have the remote start/stop hookup for each vac so essentially I'm running two vacs off the Sawstop. Believe me when I say this works "REALLY WELL". Just ask my wife...she's the Dust "Sheriff"!!!

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I thought about doing that for a bit, started piecing it together in my head, coming up with elegant ways to set it up and keep it clear from the cutting table so it didnt get in the way while cutting. Then I said forget it and just bought the SawStop one. Its nice, clean, matching, works well and is already done for you.

This is exactly what I did and I'm happy with it. Those that say it doesn't work well need to change out the T fitting that comes with the overhead arm and replace it with a Y fitting. It will greatly increase the suction from the blade guard. I get almost zero dust when making a rip cut.

[Ben Rivel]

Don't purchase the overhead arm. I just bought a 1.5HP PCS with the overhead arm as part of their current sale. I added the dust collector blade guard as part of my purchase with the overhead arm to be delivered as sort of a rebate at a later date. I wanted to try the saw out immediately so I hooked up my shop vac w/dust deputy to the dust collection blade guard using a 35mm hose hung from my ceiling and 4" cabinet dust collection to my DC. Worked great. Almost dust free rips with reasonable results for cross cuts.

Got the overhead arm from Saw Stop within two days (nice) but once I got it installed discovered that it wasn't anywhere near as nice as what I had been doing with the direct connection for the overhead. The Saw Stop overhead collector is now sitting on a shelf.
Change their T fitting to a 45 degree wye, and if you have 36" PCS shorten the hoses so there is less curl as they are shipped for use with the 52" too so that means they are too long for the 36" table.

[Nick Decker]

Old thread, but I have a related question. I have a new PCS and am struggling with dust solutions.

I'm limited to 110v power, and am hoping that I can get by with a modified HF 2 hp collector (run through a Super Dust Deputy and exhausted through a Wynn filter). Is anyone using the HF unit for both cabinet and overarm collection, using the SawStop blade guard and boom setup?

[Dustin Bullard]

Old thread, but I have a related question. I have a new PCS and am struggling with dust solutions.

I'm limited to 110v power, and am hoping that I can get by with a modified HF 2 hp collector (run through a Super Dust Deputy and exhausted through a Wynn filter). Is anyone using the HF unit for both cabinet and overarm collection, using the SawStop blade guard and boom setup?


I picked up my SS just under a month ago and went with the upgraded blade guard and the free OA kit. With my HF DC w/ separator and Wynn Filter it does such a poor job I don't even bother. The honest truth though is that the OA tubing is so restrictive that its not even worth using in my opinion... I even tried using my Festool CT36 for OA connection and it can't pull enough vacuum through the OA boom to make any noticeable difference, I certainly don't see how anything less than 5HP Cyclone DC is going to do any better...

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, Dustin. Sounds like your system is very similar to what I'd be using. It's especially discouraging to hear that even connecting your vac to the OA boom doesn't work well. Have you tried connecting the vac directly to the blade guard to see if that makes a difference?

Others, if the OA boom is working well for you, how big of a DC are you using?

[Simon MacGowen]

Thanks, Dustin. Sounds like your system is very similar to what I'd be using. It's especially discouraging to hear that even connecting your vac to the OA boom doesn't work well. Have you tried connecting the vac directly to the blade guard to see if that makes a difference?

Others, if the OA boom is working well for you, how big of a DC are you using?

I was, too, surprised to hear of Dustin's experience. My experience has been completely the opposite (not using a CT36 but a Sears shop vac...way cheaper ;) ) and the improvement has been day and night. Could he be referring to edge cuts when the result was unsatisfactory?

I started with a 1.5 HP dust collector but found the right angle connector to the overarm tube the Achilles heel in the whole setup. I came across a picture showing the use of a shop vac directly hooked up to the tube (not the dc guard) and copied it (about four or five years ago). It has worked beautifully...I strongly urge you to try it before ruling it out.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

I should add that I don't yet have the HF dust collector, am getting by for the time being with my present 1 hp Rikon DC which barely keeps up with the cabinet dust. About once a week I go inside with a shop vac and clean up what gets left behind. Not really worried about edge/skimming cuts, just routine rips and crosscuts which at present are leaving a lot of dust all over the place and me.

I have a good Fein vac which I could hook up to the OA boom, but my 20 amp circuit won't handle both the vac and the HF unit at once. I have two 20 amp circuits in the garage, one for the DC and one for everything else.

Decisions, decisions. Just trying to not throw any more money into the wind than necessary. The upgraded DC blade guard will be here tomorrow, I'll see how well it works connected directly to the Fein vac, then think about what to do from there.

I'm also aware that folks have used a wye connector to replace the SS tee connector, as well as putting in a blast gate to direct more air to the blade guard.

[Dustin Bullard]

I was, too, surprised to hear of Dustin's experience. My experience has been completely the opposite (not using a CT36 but a Sears shop vac...way cheaper ;) ) and the improvement has been day and night. Could he be referring to edge cuts when the result was unsatisfactory?

I started with a 1.5 HP dust collector but found the right angle connector to the overarm tube the Achilles heel in the whole setup. I came across a picture showing the use of a shop vac directly hooked up to the tube (not the dc guard) and copied it (about four or five years ago). It has worked beautifully...I strongly urge you to try it before ruling it out.

Simon

I'm definitely referring to edge cuts, which for me are the only scenario where OA collection make any sense. In my experience so far the only time I end up with any real amount of dust on the deck is during edge cuts as the under table collection is great. I totally agree that the right angle connector is a big issue with the design but moreover i think the issue stems from the pressure drop and restriction of that much small tubing. I'm sure there is A difference, I just dont believe its enough of a difference to invest money that could be better spent elsewhere. Now I will say that I purchased the Dust Collection Blade guard because it is superior to the stock blade guard that came on my 1.75HP saw and I did get the OA kit for free because of the March/April free upgrade promotion... I just dont think its worth $200 + the Blade Guard if you are out of pocket...

[Nick Decker]

Thanks for clarifying that, Dustin. Like I said, I'm pretty new to this machine so I don't know quite what to expect as far as optimum goes.

My previous saw was the SawStop jobsite. Oddly, the dust collection with it, using the same DC setup, was much better. Of course, there wasn't a big cabinet involved, but there was very little left over dust on the table, even with no overarm collection.

[Simon MacGowen]

I'm definitely referring to edge cuts, which for me are the only scenario where OA collection make any sense. In my experience so far the only time I end up with any real amount of dust on the deck is during edge cuts as the under table collection is great. .

Edge/trim cuts can only be dealt with by one after-market solution. Neither the SS dc blade guard nor its Excalibur (sp?) type floating arm dust collection shroud will do, despite SS's dust collection being rated the best among all cabinet saws. For non-edge cuts, hooking up the overam dust tube to a shop vac is a much cheaper solution than installing a 5HP cyclone unit...even if you have the space.

I forgot the name or the video but it is a shroud fitted with bristles around that sits around the stock. Someone may be able to pull out that video.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

I think I've seen that thing with the brushes around the edges. That would hide the blade even more, which I wouldn't like. I want to see and know what's going on there.

[Rod Sheridan]

I think I've seen that thing with the brushes around the edges. That would hide the blade even more, which I wouldn't like. I want to see and know what's going on there.

Why?

I'm serious Nick, I've owned saws with metal guards that you couldn't even see the blade through.

If you're ripping, you need your eyes on the fence, if crosscutting, on the crosscut fence.

Regards, Rod.

[Dustin Bullard]

Edge/trim cuts can only be dealt with by one after-market solution. Neither the SS dc blade guard nor its Excalibur (sp?) type floating arm dust collection shroud will do, despite SS's dust collection being rated the best among all cabinet saws. For non-edge cuts, hooking up the overam dust tube to a shop vac is a much cheaper solution than installing a 5HP cyclone unit...even if you have the space.

I forgot the name or the video but it is a shroud fitted with bristles around that sits around the stock. Someone may be able to pull out that video.

Simon


I have just accepted that edge cuts are going to be a mess pretty much no matter what in my shop... I guess I just don't see a lot of mess from regular cuts where the OA is supposed to be most effective so it seems like more eye candy than functionality in my opinion (which is a testament to the dust collection the saw has natively even with my HF dust collector). Even cutting nasty stuff like MDF just doesn't leave enough of a mess to want to go through the trouble of installing/uninstalling the OA boom every time I need to use my sled or make a non-through cut (even if it's just disconnecting / reconnecting a hose). Now, that said the dust collection blade guard is far superior to the stock blade guard that comes with the 1.75hp saw so I think it's a worthwhile upgrade. I just don't think that the OA Boom is worth the money if you actually have to pay for it.

[Nick Decker]

Why?

I'm serious Nick, I've owned saws with metal guards that you couldn't even see the blade through.

If you're ripping, you need your eyes on the fence, if crosscutting, on the crosscut fence.

Regards, Rod.

I guess it's part of the comfort level of knowing exactly where the blade is relative to my hands, and exactly when the wood will make contact with it. May not make sense to some, but it does to me.

[Simon MacGowen]

Why?

I'm serious Nick, I've owned saws with metal guards that you couldn't even see the blade through.

If you're ripping, you need your eyes on the fence, if crosscutting, on the crosscut fence.

Regards, Rod.

That has been my practice since Day 1, not caring about what is going on under that dust blade guard or dust shroud. It is impossible, in fact, to look at anywhere else but the far side of the fence when you rip a 4 x 8 or even a 4 x 4 on the tablesaw.

All this of course assumes that the operator has position himselfherself (including his/her hands) and the pushshoe (or whatever safety device) properly before he/she starts his/her cut.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

I have just accepted that edge cuts are going to be a mess pretty much no matter what in my shop... I guess I just don't see a lot of mess from regular cuts where the OA is supposed to be most effective so it seems like more eye candy than functionality in my opinion (which is a testament to the dust collection the saw has natively even with my HF dust collector). Even cutting nasty stuff like MDF just doesn't leave enough of a mess to want to go through the trouble of installing/uninstalling the OA boom every time I need to use my sled or make a non-through cut (even if it's just disconnecting / reconnecting a hose). Now, that said the dust collection blade guard is far superior to the stock blade guard that comes with the 1.75hp saw so I think it's a worthwhile upgrade. I just don't think that the OA Boom is worth the money if you actually have to pay for it.

Dustin, at least that tells me that the HF unit will do a good job of keeping the cabinet clean. Are you saying that you don't use the OA boom at all?

[Dustin Bullard]

Dustin, at least that tells me that the HF unit will do a good job of keeping the cabinet clean. Are you saying that you don't use the OA boom at all?

That is correct, it’s 80% disassembled now and will be moving into to the shelf of forgotten toys next to my Bora saw guide and Bessy 36” quick clamps this weekend. I’ll keep it just in case I ever get my clearview... I do however use the DC Blade guard as it’s far superior to the mini guard that comes with the 1.75hp saw and would happily recommend it as an upgrade. If only SawStop would give us a free outfeed table upgrade...

[Nick Decker]

Thanks, Dustin. I agree about the DC blade guard being better. Mine came in yesterday. Heavier build, it stays in the up position without coming apart, and the large pawls can be locked up if you choose. SawStop should make it standard with the 1.75 PCS, would probably result in more people actually using a blade guard.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have the same saw & just dropped a 2 1/2" flex from the duct overhead down to a reducer at the saw guard. works very well.

+1

That is exactly what I did....

[Ben Rivel]

+1

That is exactly what I did....
Same here.

[Nick Decker]

Ben, I hadn't thought to put an elbow right before the 4" hose enters the cabinet. Seems like that might sort of act as a partial blast gate on the 4" line, redirecting more of the air into the smaller hose for the topside? I like it, consider your idea stolen. :)

I don't have overhead plumbing, so dropping a hose from above is out.

I've got all the pieces now, just need to get some wood to build a stand for the DC. It'll consist of a Super DD into the HF motor/fan unit, exhausted through a Wynn filter. The HF unit is probably the weak point, but I don't know of anything better for 110v. Maybe the Oneida Mini Gorilla, but I already had the cyclone and the filter, and I gotta quit throwing money at this thing.

[Nick Decker]

Just to follow up, I got everything put together this weekend. Overall, as I expected, the HF does a much better job than my little 1 hp Rikon unit. It was rated at 650 CFM, which I would guess was more like 300 CFM delivered at the tool. SawStop says you need 350 minimum for just the cabinet, so I was weak right off the bat.

As for the HF unit being enough for both the cabinet and above the table, I'd say not quite. There is some suction that makes it through the overarm tubing, and it's definitely better than nothing, but more is needed. When making a cut, I can see some chips being sucked through the blade guard, which probably means less fine stuff in the air as well.

After doing some cutting this afternoon (no edge cuts, just normal ripping and crosscuts), there is almost zero stuff in the cabinet. Still a little on the table, but such is life with 110 volts, I guess.

I might look around for a separate shop vacuum to hook to the overarm, but it would need to be pretty low power (less than 8 amps). Odd to find myself thinking sbout vacs that aren't powerful.

[Simon MacGowen]

After doing some cutting this afternoon (no edge cuts, just normal ripping and crosscuts), there is almost zero stuff in the cabinet. Still a little on the table, but such is life with 110 volts, I guess.

I might look around for a separate shop vacuum to hook to the overarm, but it would need to be pretty low power (less than 8 amps). Odd to find myself thinking sbout vacs that aren't powerful.

I have not used it before but heard some good feedback from other woodworkers who have the SS -

https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525652946&sr=8-1&keywords=ivac+automated+vacuum+switch

That should deal with your power issue?

Simon

[Nick Decker]

Nope, the power issue would be the 20 amp circuits in my shop/garage. The saw runs on one, the dust collector runs on the other. An additional shop vac, running on either circuit, would need to be less than 8 amps.

[Simon MacGowen]

Nope, the power issue would be the 20 amp circuits in my shop/garage. The saw runs on one, the dust collector runs on the other. An additional shop vac, running on either circuit, would need to be less than 8 amps.
The auto switch can give you 30a (if powered by 2 circuits). Use the switch and another outlet for the saw or vac and the total amp you can get is 50a.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

One of us is confused, and I'll readily stand corrected if it's me.

Saw = 13 amps
Dust Collector = 14 amps
Shop vac = 8 amps

I can ( and do) run the saw and the dc on the two separate 20 amp circuits at the same time. If I add a shop vac to either of those circuits at the same time, I exceed 20 amps. I realize that I can plug the ivac thing into separate circuits, but still, if I exceed 20 amps on either circuit it'll pop the breaker.

I'm no electrician, but I don't see the wisdom in trying to run more than the circuit breaker is rated for.

[Simon MacGowen]

One of us is confused, and I'll readily stand corrected if it's me.

Saw = 13 amps
Dust Collector = 14 amps
Shop vac = 8 amps

I can ( and do) run the saw and the dc on the two separate 20 amp circuits at the same time. If I add a shop vac to either of those circuits at the same time, I exceed 20 amps. I realize that I can plug the ivac thing into separate circuits, but still, if I exceed 20 amps on either circuit it'll pop the breaker.

I'm no electrician, but I don't see the wisdom in trying to run more than the circuit breaker is rated for.

You can plug your tools as follows:

1 - Plug SS in outlet 1 (13 a vs 20a)
2 - Plug auto switch to outlets 2 & 3 (that will give you 30a, the max. amp allowed by the switch even if it is on two 20a circuits) - (use the auto switch with a 3 outlet tap like this https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-GT300RC1-3-Outlet-Triple-Wall/dp/B01K1JR3Z4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525708752&sr=8-4&keywords=3+outlet )
3 - Plug DC (14 a) & vac (up to 16amp!) to the auto switch's 3 outlet tap

You can also plug SS (13a) and DC (14a) into the auto switch as an alternative, etc. as long as the load on the auto switch is under 30a. In this case, if you use the saw without the dc bladecut (e.g. on a crosscut sled), when you turn on the saw, the dc will come on automatically.

Simon