Featherboards on Jointer

[Anthony Whitesell]

Does anyone use a featherboard (likely a magnet featherboard) on their jointer?

I was thinking for edging it would help keep longer board against the fence. I was also thinking if they would offer any hold-down pressure when face jointing longer boards.

[Erik Loza]

Personally, I don't want a lot of pressure against the fence on a jointer. It's not like a table saw, where you are trying to maintain a parallel dimension. "Down" and "forward" are more important than "against", if that makes sense. I used to use a Gripper pushblock when I was doing the trade show circuit and that seemed to work fine for me. I don't thinbk a feather board would offer any supprt on long boards. In fact, it might cause some sketchyness as the tail end of the board leaves the comb. Just my thoughts.

Erik

[glenn bradley]

Difficult to get the pressure where you need it for face jointing. I have used a magnetic featherboard when running a lot of thin stock on edge. For the most part, if I didn't already have the featherboard for other uses I wouldn't run out and buy one for this purpose. JMHO.

[Prashun Patel]

I tried but it didn't seem to work that well in conjunction with a push block.

The single best jointer improvement I made was using spiked pushblocks. They really help in keeping heavier pieces moving and flush to the fence.

[Rod Sheridan]

Does anyone use a featherboard (likely a magnet featherboard) on their jointer?

I was thinking for edging it would help keep longer board against the fence. I was also thinking if they would offer any hold-down pressure when face jointing longer boards.

Hi Anthony, yes I do, although not what you're thinking.

A bridge guard makes a great device for pushing the bottom edge of the wood against the fence...........Regards, Rod.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Hi Anthony, yes I do, although not what you're thinking.

A bridge guard makes a great device for pushing the bottom edge of the wood against the fence...........Regards, Rod.

A "bridge guard"? Haven't heard of that one. Any links or pics?

[Anthony Whitesell]

Weight is not my issue. Length is. I find it hard to lift 8 and 12 foot long boards and apply pressure at the cutterhead or keep the front edge against the fence to produce a 90 degree square edge when I am 4 to 6 feet from the fence and cutterhead.

[Jay Aubuchon]

Yes, I often use a magnetic featherboard on the out-feed side when edge jointing. I find that it helps me keep the previously jointed face firmly against the fence.

[Steve Wurster]

A "bridge guard"? Haven't heard of that one. Any links or pics?

I think Rod is referring to a European-style guard, as opposed to the pork-chop style typical in the US / North America.

[Rod Sheridan]

A "bridge guard"? Haven't heard of that one. Any links or pics?

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Hi Anthony, here's an illustration of a bridge guard on a jointer...............Regards, Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

That's correct Steve.................Rod.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I get it now. I didn't correlate the words posted to the picture of the guard in my head. I agree it would keep the bottom of the board against the fence, but it wouldn't do much for the top side or against tipping.

I'm debating on whether the MagSwitch roller or a double featherboard would work better. I purchased a 20mm Ryobi version of a magnet feather board and learned the pair of 20mm magnets aren't enough. I can easily achieve more leverage with the long boards that those "tiny" magnets can hold.

[Rod Sheridan]

I get it now. I didn't correlate the words posted to the picture of the guard in my head. I agree it would keep the bottom of the board against the fence, but it wouldn't do much for the top side or against tipping.

I'm debating on whether the MagSwitch roller or a double featherboard would work better. I purchased a 20mm Ryobi version of a magnet feather board and learned the pair of 20mm magnets aren't enough. I can easily achieve more leverage with the long boards that those "tiny" magnets can hold.

Hi, typically it's only the bottom edge you worry about as you don't want your fingers that close to the cutterhead.

Otherwise you can always use a power featherboard like this.
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regards, Rod.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Hi, typically it's only the bottom edge you worry about as you don't want your fingers that close to the cutterhead.

Otherwise you can always use a power featherboard like this.
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regards, Rod.

I am working on that too. I have a Delta feeder I am hoping to setup this weekend and try before I modify the jointer. In the meantime...

[Jim Becker]

I can see the potential of this idea for edge jointing, but not for face jointing. The latter shouldn't have any pressure applied as you need to be knocking off the high spots, as it were, for that operation and if you press down too much, you'll just be repeating the existing out-of-flat situation on the cut.

[Rod Sheridan]

I can see the potential of this idea for edge jointing, but not for face jointing. The latter shouldn't have any pressure applied as you need to be knocking off the high spots, as it were, for that operation and if you press down too much, you'll just be repeating the existing out-of-flat situation on the cut.

Actually Jim, it works just fine.

The trick is to apply only enough pressure to feed the wood without deforming it.

Decades ago in industry I built a feeder for the jointer that used a low inflation riding lawnmower tire, almost no downward pressure, lots of traction, improved output by over 60% per shift.

Today there are power feeders specifically made for the jointer that produce excellent results............regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

I was referring to the original question about feather boards, Rod. But yes, a properly adjusted feeder will work just fine for face jointing.

[Rod Sheridan]

I was referring to the original question about feather boards, Rod. But yes, a properly adjusted feeder will work just fine for face jointing.

Sorry Jim, misunderstood your comment......................Regards, Rod.

[Steve Peterson]

I can see the potential of this idea for edge jointing, but not for face jointing. The latter shouldn't have any pressure applied as you need to be knocking off the high spots, as it were, for that operation and if you press down too much, you'll just be repeating the existing out-of-flat situation on the cut.

I use magnetic featherboards all the time with my 6" Ridgid jointer. The fence is not very tall and I occasionally want to edge joint a 12" wide board. It helps me to keep the board vertical. I apply a slight pressure against the top of the fence and the featherboard. The orange featherboards from HD are not very strong, but they are only supplying a small holding pressure so they are strong enough.

Steve

[Lee Schierer]

I use my magnetic feather boards for edge jointing. Normally on the infeed table.