Hammer/Drill Recommendation

[Vince Shriver]

Looking to purchase a two speed (or more) hammer drill combination. Cordless preferred, but not a deal breaker. Bosch, Dewalt, Fein, other? I would like to get a recommendation from folks who have actually used the tool. Thanks, Vince

[Randy Viellenave]

If you get cordless, just get the same brand you already use. Dewalt, Makita, Milwaukee are all about the same. If you plan to drill a bunch of holes, I would recommend getting a more purpose built hammer. The combo units have percussion as an afterthought, and as such do not hit as hard; and combined with the higher rpm they heat up and dull the bits quicker. I have a Dewalt (18V nicad) that has served well for 10 yrs, but I also have a Bosch hammer (36V) for setting concrete anchors. The Bosch also has a hammer only setting which has proved quite useful for excising small chunks of concrete.

[lee cox]

I own a Milwaukee 28 volt rotary hammer drill. It works quite well. I have no item if it is best as it is the only cordless I have used. I have a corded Bosch rotary drill which I have owned for over 10 years. Both are good but cordless in handy.

[Jerome Stanek]

I have a PC corded hammer drill and some dewalt cordless ones bu when I want to drill an concrete I use my Hilti roto hammer or Black and Decker Macho. The hammer drills scream way to much for me, and the roto hammers drill twice as fast and are easier to use.

[Frank Pratt]

Be aware that there is a hammer drill, which is just a drill with a mechanism to introduce some impact force and a rotary hammer, which provides far higher impact force & is designed specifically for drilling concrete. The former is really not much better than a standard drill when drilling concrete. The rotary hammers also use (mostly) SDS bits, not smooth shank bits. Rotary hammers are also quite a bit more expensive.

I have 18V Milwaukee rotary hammer & hammer drills. There is no comparison when drilling concrete.

[John K Jordan]

Vince,

I would first ask: what do you want to do with a hammer drill? If you want to drill a few holes in masonry to install some anchors, one of the inexpensive pistol grip combos would work. If you often need to work more than 100ft or so from 110 power, a cordless might be useful. If you want a tool do a lot of serious work with concrete, I would definitely go with one of the large SDS hammer drills.

Maybe 25 years ago I bought a Bosch Bulldog SDS corded hammer drill and it has been amazing. You want 2-speed? This is variable speed. It has plain rotation, rotation with hammer, and hammer alone. I use the hammer alone mode with chisels to make short work of cutting in concrete. The SDS drill bits and chisels are available almost everywhere that sells tools (HD, etc)

For example, I used the Bosch to cut a 4"x4" trench about 4' long in concrete to install a drain for a shower - I drilled many 1/2" holes along the edges then dug out the concrete with a 1" chisel. This took far less time than I had expected. I cut a 12"x18" rectangular hole in a carport to add a catch basin to replace a 4" drain pipe that got clogged by a big oak leaf. I've drilled hundreds of holes with up to a 1" drill, some about 10" into the side of a concrete slab to tie in rebar. I would have worn out several of the wimpy "hammer" drills and the projects would have taken far longer to complete.

Most of the larger hammer drills have a motor that draws about 7 amps. A cordless battery is unlikely to hold up for an entire job so do you buy extra batteries or take many long breaks for recharging? If a cordless tool is not used often, the batteries can deteriorate. A corded tool is always ready to use.

BTW, I've had a couple of corded pistol grip so-called hammer drills and there is NO comparison to the professional tool. In my opinion, of course!

This is the one I have, except a newer model, of course:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-BULLDOG-SDS-plus-D-Handle/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=sr_1_1

JKJ

[Steve Wurster]

Vince,

I would first ask: what do you want to do with a hammer drill? If you want to drill a few holes in masonry to install some anchors, one of the inexpensive pistol grip combos would work. If you often need to work more than 100ft or so from 110 power, a cordless might be useful. If you want a tool do a lot of serious work with concrete, I would definitely go with one of the large SDS hammer drills.

Maybe 25 years ago I bought a Bosch Bulldog SDS corded hammer drill and it has been amazing. You want 2-speed? This is variable speed. It has plain rotation, rotation with hammer, and hammer alone. I use the hammer alone mode with chisels to make short work of cutting in concrete. The SDS drill bits and chisels are available almost everywhere that sells tools (HD, etc)

For example, I used the Bosch to cut a 4"x4" trench about 4' long in concrete to install a drain for a shower - I drilled many 1/2" holes along the edges then dug out the concrete with a 1" chisel. This took far less time than I had expected. I cut a 12"x18" rectangular hole in a carport to add a catch basin to replace a 4" drain pipe that got clogged by a big oak leaf. I've drilled hundreds of holes with up to a 1" drill, some about 10" into the side of a concrete slab to tie in rebar. I would have worn out several of the wimpy "hammer" drills and the projects would have taken far longer to complete.

Most of the larger hammer drills have a motor that draws about 7 amps. A cordless battery is unlikely to hold up for an entire job so do you buy extra batteries or take many long breaks for recharging? If a cordless tool is not used often, the batteries can deteriorate. A corded tool is always ready to use.

BTW, I've had a couple of corded pistol grip so-called hammer drills and there is NO comparison to the professional tool. In my opinion, of course!

This is the one I have, except a newer model, of course:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-BULLDOG-SDS-plus-D-Handle/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=sr_1_1

JKJ

I agree with John: If you want a true hammer drill, get one that does SDS or SDS-plus. I recently bought the exact same model that John links to, and used it yesterday to drill some holes in concrete for anchors. The thing cut like butter, with minimal vibration and noise. Way better than an older Bosch non-SDS hammer drill that I've used in the past.

[Erik Loza]

Bear this in mind: I am no expert in hammer/drills, so take this for what it's worth. I have a Harbor Freight corded hammer drill that has more than paid for itself in drilling through concrete, mortar, or limestone when I needed it. I use it maybe 3-4X per year and have no complaints with it. I do, however, use the good Bosch bits, not the junk bits from HF. I could not justify paying for a more expensive unit, based ont he work I do. If I needed it more often, I would definitely buy something more substantial.

Erik

[Prashun Patel]

Vince, what are you trying to accomplish?

There are drills, hammer drills, rotary hammers, sds max hammers, and then jack hammers.

Hammer drills - especially cordless - *can* be too heavy for daily drill usage, but not strong enough for easy work in concrete. If you are (like me) a guy who needs a lot of cowbell once every year or so, then you may find it worthwhile to just rent it, or as Eric says buy cheap on 'bay or HF. I have a rotary hammer from 'bay that paid for itself after one use.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I own a Milwaukee 28 volt rotary hammer drill. It works quite well. I have no item if it is best as it is the only cordless I have used. I have a corded Bosch rotary drill which I have owned for over 10 years. Both are good but cordless in handy.

I have this and love it. It has a bunch of get up and go. If I will do a bunch of this, however, then I get out the corded version.

[Greg R Bradley]

I think he is looking for ONE drill that will do multiple functions. Mentioning 2 speed tells you it isn't a Rotary Hammer. There is no SDS+ Hammer Drill - if it has an SDS+ or similar chuck it is a Rotary Hammer, which are single purpose masonry drills.

A Hammer Drill is a regular drill that also has a mode that adds "hammering", which is more like vibrating in that it's very light and very fast. That will drill very small holes in masonry almost as well as a small Rotary Hammer. It will drill a 3/4" hole in old concrete much better than a drill without hammer mode but I wouldn't want to drill very many. :)

I prefer to keep masonry functions away from my good drills but it really depends on what you want. The hammer mode adds size, weight, slop in the mechanism, etc. but does give you that additional option.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I have a Bosch 1191VSRK and a Firestorm 7 amp - both corded. Both were mistakes. The keyless chuck of the Firestorm slips & the 1191 is the only hammer drill Bosch has made for them in China as a price point. Oh well, at least the Bosch doesn't slip it's bit...

Were I to do it all over again, I would have just bought a low end hammer drill, with a keyed chuck, from Harbor Freight.

I use the Bosch mainly as a corded electric (non-hammer) drill and limit it's hammer drill use to a 3/8" bit maximum. Usually I use it to drill holes for pocket screws.
The Firestorm I use to mix thin set, grout and drywall mud/compound.

[Greg R Bradley]

Rich, the Milwaukee 0101-20 0-4000rpm is the pocket hole king:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/0101-20

It has that double padded groove down each side so you can use your thumb and forefinger to line it up and it becomes part of your hand almost. Almost like the Festool CXS where you just point your finger to line up the drill.

They also make a 0-2500rpm version with a side handle that does a range of functions and has a side handle. It's longer and weighs more so not as nice for fine work.

[Jim Dwight]

It would help to know what you want to do. I have a little "waffle plate" type hammer drill that switches between modes (regular drill and hammer mode) and a rotary hammer that has drilling, hammer drilling, and demo mode. You could have a cordless of he waffle plate design but I don't think the rotary hammers comes that way. Mine draws 10A. I call the small one waffle plate because that is how it works. Two plates with nibs on them rotate against each other to move the chuck back and forth. It works fine for tapcons and plastic anchors but would take forever to drill a 1/2 inch hole. The rotary hammer will drill a 1/2 inch hole in very little time and will handle a 1 inch hole. The rotary hammer takes special bits.

A cordless could be handy but only if you only need small holes or have tons of patience.

My rotary hammer is a Harbor Freight. I've taken down a brick chimney and 8 feet of wall with it so far. It is very serviceable despite it's barely over $100 price. I've also drilled a bunch of holes, small and not small with it. I would never spend $400 on a Hilti when the $100 HF works this well. The selector switch was a little balky at first but has loosened up with use. I can put up with that sort of thing when the price is this different.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Rich, the Milwaukee 0101-20 0-4000rpm is the pocket hole king:Yeah...I didn't think I used enough pocket screws to justify pretty much a dedicated drill to them.
When Menards ran a sale on the Bosch for $79, I jumped all over it w/out checking it out first.
I seldom use a hammer drill too, so, I thought I could kill two birds with one stone.
The Bosch is a 0 to 3000 RPM, 1/2" keyed chuck. 7 amp drill.
I figured it was perfect for my needs.
Sadly, it's the only Bosch hammer drill or SDS, that's made in China.
I could have gotten it's twin w/a red paint job instead of Bosch blue from HF and saved $50.

The Firestorm is just too big and unwieldy for pocket screws. It's great for Tapcons, but, the keyless chuck slips too much.
I keep on using it for mixing until it burns up. @ least I won't feel bad about burning it up. It has paid for itself.

[Mike Cashman]

I have a Milwaukee 5376-20, 1/2" hammer-drill (corded). Use it for small jobs around the house into concrete, brick and stone façade (heavy duty bracket for the flagpole). Works very well when paired with a quality bit, like Bosch. Bought some cheapo bits from HD or Lowes, may have even been Milwaukee branded bit and they were terrible.
I purchased the drill from CPO Outlets, factory reconditioned unit, for $49.00, new they used to sell for $100 - $140.

If you're doing a lot of heavy work or big holes in concrete I would look at a really good rotary drill. I had a Bosch (model now forgotten) when we lived in Germany/France/Australia, came in very handy for all the concrete and concrete block holes we drilled in walls to hang pictures and what not. If you're doing the odd job like that the 'bay/HF route mentioned above might be more economical but again, with good quality bits.

[Alan Lightstone]

So what is the difference between that Bosch drill for $179 and the Hilti drill for $5100? What does 26 times the cost get you?

Hilti Drill: (http://smile.amazon.com/Hilti-TE-60-ATC-AVR-Combihammer-3493738/dp/B00GK5ED8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1459522139&sr=1-12&refinements=p_89%3AHILTI)


Bosch Drill mentioned above:

(http://smile.amazon.com/Hilti-TE-60-ATC-AVR-Combihammer-3493738/dp/B00GK5ED8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1459522139&sr=1-12&refinements=p_89%3AHILTI)

[Greg R Bradley]

"What does 26 time the cost get you?" Easy, the ability to say that every expensive hand tool, Festool power tool, or most collectibles are not really that expensive.....:)

Actually, I saw a bunch of people at the Hilti booths at World of Concrete tradeshow several weeks ago talking about their new super high end units. They are silly expensive but come with a bunch of extra stuff like dust extraction THROUGH the drill, torque control to make it easier to control the tool in difficult places. I believe they are made for very, very special circumstances like working in areas that have to stay clean or working in very awkward or confined places. I recall it comes with a bunch of other pieces not shown in the picture.

[Tom M King]

Hammer drills eat a lot, and getting covered with dust. I have a corded Bosch for bits up to 1/2", and an SDS Max for everything larger. I wouldn't want a cordless one that I would also use for other things, as the time cleaning up the drill wouldn't be worth it.

[Jerome Stanek]

So what is the difference between that Bosch drill for $179 and the Hilti drill for $5100? What does 26 times the cost get you?

Hilti Drill: (http://smile.amazon.com/Hilti-TE-60-ATC-AVR-Combihammer-3493738/dp/B00GK5ED8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1459522139&sr=1-12&refinements=p_89%3AHILTI)

Bosch Drill mentioned above:

(http://smile.amazon.com/Hilti-TE-60-ATC-AVR-Combihammer-3493738/dp/B00GK5ED8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1459522139&sr=1-12&refinements=p_89%3AHILTI)

I think that is a mistake Hilti sells it for a lot less and you can find it cheaper than Hilti's price. That drill will drill holes 24/7 for years try that with the Bosch you posted

[Rod Sheridan]

So what is the difference between that Bosch drill for $179 and the Hilti drill for $5100? What does 26 times the cost get you?

Hilti Drill: (http://smile.amazon.com/Hilti-TE-60-ATC-AVR-Combihammer-3493738/dp/B00GK5ED8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1459522139&sr=1-12&refinements=p_89%3AHILTI)


Bosch Drill mentioned above:

(http://smile.amazon.com/Hilti-TE-60-ATC-AVR-Combihammer-3493738/dp/B00GK5ED8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1459522139&sr=1-12&refinements=p_89%3AHILTI)

I think it's a typo.

I bought a Hilti SDS drill kit a couple of years ago with built in dust collection, even in Canada it was under $1,000..................Rod.

[Mike Henderson]

I had a DeWalt hammer drill for years and it worked fine for my use. I didn't use the hammer function that much but when I did use it, it did the job.

When I upgraded to the DeWalt 20V line, I didn't buy a hammer drill - just a drill. I have a corded hammer drill and I'll pull out the extension cord the few times when I need a hammer drill.

Mike

[Gregory King]

I guess the real question is, what is the OP using this for. If it's just the concrete tapcon screws, a good corded hammer drill is the Walter Metabo with the Walter bits. Cost wise in Canada is around $300.00. If the plan is to drill anchors for lag bolt type thing, then yes , a rotary drill is the way to go. A rotary drill will drill easier than the former, but not many of us want to carry that weight all day. Greg

[Steve H Graham]

I bought a cordless Bosch Brute a few years back, for around $280. I thought it was great. I used it to make big 12"-deep holes in very hard concrete. Then the batteries died (as they always do), and I found out what batteries cost. Right now, the outmoded batteries for this thing cost $90 each. I have never replaced them. You can buy new cells, cut the old battery open, and install them, but for my needs, it's better to just abandon the tool.

I replaced it with a Bosch 1/2" corded hammer drill. I think it was $69. It's lighter than the now-useless battery drill. It runs for as long as I like. I don't have to make sure the batteries were charged recently before I pick it up. I will never have to buy a new battery for it. I don't have to clutter the garage with another charger.

You know those expensive-looking drills you see on Craigslist for $25? They come from people like me who don't want to buy new batteries.

Ridgid will supposedly give you new batteries for life if you sign up for their warranty. That, all by itself, would justify buying a Ridgid.

I agree that you have to make a distinction between a hammer drill (small) and a rotary hammer (big). I have a corded Makita rotary hammer, and I blasts through concrete much, much faster than a hammer drill, which is really only useful for small jobs like putting screw anchors in concrete. A rotary hammer is on another level.

You will really, really regret buying a puny hammer drill if you do a lot of drilling in concrete.