PDA

View Full Version : First retooth crosscut



Phil Mueller
03-25-2016, 10:38 PM
First, thanks to all for the previous posts input. This was a great learning experience. It ain't pretty or perfect, but after a little tuning, cuts beyond my expectations.

Just a recap:

Here's where it started:
334540

Prepped for retoothing:
334541 334542

Dykem, joint, shape, Dykem, joint, shape, Dykem, joint, shape, Dykem, joint, set, sharpen...loose track, mess up about 1" of teeth, Dykem, joint, reshape.....you get the point.

Here's the end result:
334543

Closed eyes cut test...a bit of tuning...and done.
334544

This was refiled 7ppt crosscut. Next up 10 or 12...but need to give the eyes a rest.
By the way, I used a Bahco file...took all three edges.

James Waldron
03-25-2016, 11:58 PM
Good start!!!

Saw cuts straight, it appears. Maybe you don't? Or did I miss something in those kerfs?

And I think if you can get that much cutting out of one Bahco file, they (and you) are doing well.

Phil Mueller
03-26-2016, 12:10 AM
Thanks James. Should have explained the kerfs better.

The second cut from the left was the first trial....moving to the right so filed the right side. Then the third cut from the left was the second cut...moving a bit left, so filed a little on the left side. The first cut on the left showed a little bit of movement to the right so one more light file pass down the right side. Final cut is the far right.

But yes, the sawing technique needs more work as well. I think I do better with my eyes closed:eek:

Jim Koepke
03-26-2016, 2:35 AM
Looks like you did good. It also looks like you had your saw held high in the vise. I would need a good pair of ear plugs and muffs for that.

jtk

Phil Mueller
03-26-2016, 5:49 AM
Thanks Jim. That was just for the picture. A few times it was actually a little too low. My vice now has the battle scars of a novice :)

don wilwol
03-26-2016, 8:31 AM
Well done.

Stew Denton
03-26-2016, 10:25 AM
Hi Phil,

+1 on "Looks like you did good." and also on "Well done." The teeth on the garage sale saw you bought looked pretty sorry and now you have a good saw! Cool!

I have really enjoyed the 3 posts on the work on your saw. Your final cut looks great, and the saw teeth look good, IMHO. Like some of the others I learned more about saw sharpening too, as I read the posts, and some points about a few I didn't know. You can't beat advise from guys like George, Ron, Jim, and others of their skill. Now I need to watch some of the videos that were mentioned too. I knew the basics, and can sharpen a saw to the point that it cuts pretty well, but there are a lot of guys who chimed in, not just the 3 I mentioned, that I learned more about sharpening from. There were some points that I think of as being "fine points" on the subject that will help my sharpening....many knowledgeable folks here.

I will have to look into the Dykem, and find out where I can get it. Until your posts I had never even heard of it, and always just tried to use a good light, but my eyes are not young any more either so that looks like a good thing to learn about.

I have a quite a few 8 pt crosscuts, mostly from garage sales from way back when I was young that I didn't pay very much for, and did more carpentry type woodworking by far than anything else. However, I only have one or two finish crosscut saws, and only one finish rip saw, so am thinking about converting one (or two) of my 8s to a 12 pt crosscut. You mentioned you don't have a 10 or 12, but mentioned that such is next, that is a great choice, and I would highly recommend one now that you know how to retooth and sharpen, you won't regret the work it takes to get there.

It is more work to get there, as you know, when starting with an 8 point, and tougher with older eyes, but if I had to choose I would take a 12 point crosscut over a 10 point for finish work and fine woodworking. There are plusses and minuses on the choice though.

I am also thinking, and have been for a while, about refiling an 8 crosscut to an 8 pt rip. One of the guys in a previous post here had mentioned that as a quick way to get another finish rip saw. I really like my 7 point rip for finish work, and think an 8 pt rip would be very similar.

At any rate, thanks for the posts and pictures. Also thanks go to all of the others who chimed in.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

Patrick Chase
03-26-2016, 12:10 PM
I will have to look into the Dykem, and find out where I can get it. Until your posts I had never even heard of it, and always just tried to use a good light, but my eyes are not young any more either so that looks like a good thing to learn about.

Dykem is layout fluid for (mostly) metal working. The way it's usually used is that you coat a surface with it and then scribe your layout with an awl or similar tool. You can do very precise layout that way, and I do that for cambering plane blades etc (coat blade back with dykem, transfer profile from template to blade with awl, grind back to layout line).

As such it's available from most of the usual suspects that cater to machinists/engineers: Grainger, McMaster-Carr, etc. It's also available on Amazon, though make sure to order it separately (they "under-packaged" one of my orders that included Dykem once, and the bottle broke. As you might expect it made an epic mess).

While you're at it and on a similar note you might want to pick up some Prussian Blue marking grease :-).

Stew Denton
03-26-2016, 12:57 PM
Thanks Patrick,

I think I have some lay out blue, which I bought for marking plane irons, exactly the same purpose you mention. Now if I can just lay hands on it as I am not sure where I put it. I didn't know it was called Dykem. I don't have Prussian blue marking grease though.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

Jim Koepke
03-26-2016, 4:03 PM
As such it's available from most of the usual suspects that cater to machinists/engineers: Grainger, McMaster-Carr, etc.

Some of the better stocked hardware stores carry Dykem blue or red. Mine was bought at Pastime Hardware in El Cerrito, CA.

It can come in handy when working on a chip breaker to find where it is touching the blade back and where it isn't.

jtk

Patrick Chase
03-26-2016, 8:06 PM
It can come in handy when working on a chip breaker to find where it is touching the blade back and where it isn't.

Is this referring to Dykem or my suggestion to stock up on Prussian Blue grease at the same time? IMO Dykem dries too quickly for interference-checking, though I may just be slow. I use Prussian Blue for that sort of thing...

Jim Koepke
03-26-2016, 8:44 PM
Is this referring to Dykem or my suggestion to stock up on Prussian Blue grease at the same time? IMO Dykem dries too quickly for interference-checking, though I may just be slow. I use Prussian Blue for that sort of thing...

Dykem, I never have used Prussian blue except when I used to do oil painting.

Dykem on the back of the blade will transfer to the high spots on the chip breaker when rubbed against the blade.

jtk

Phil Mueller
03-26-2016, 8:54 PM
That's a great tip Jim, thanks.

Patrick Chase
03-26-2016, 10:39 PM
Dykem on the back of the blade will transfer to the high spots on the chip breaker when rubbed against the blade.

jtk

Ah, I see, dry transfer via abrasion/rubbing. That would definitely work. As Phil said, thanks for the tip.