An interesting Epoxy option, looks very promising IMO.

[Mac McQuinn]

I stumbled across this product, appears to offer some good advantages for boat builders, woodworkers, etc.
Mac
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/epoxy/dwx/index.htm

[Jamie Buxton]

Interesting indeed.
However, I wish they'd provide a bit more info about curing time versus temperature. For instance, if I leave the glue to cure overnight in an unheated shop, how cold can the stuff go and still cure?

[John Blazy]

Duckworks is an old friend - Chuck wrote an article about my boat and hull epoxying method a long while back. It appears as though he is re-packaging a non blush epoxy from a company we both know (I began writing the name, but thought to protect Chucks' source) where I have been getting my epoxy for quite some time now. So the reason I am writing this, is because that class of epoxies (I think they are cycloaliphatic epoxides) is really awesome - I highly recommend them, and the price is great.


I made cup holders for my boat using the non blush epoxy that I believe is the same here, UV stable (no haze after UV exposure), and did not put a urethane topcoat over them. They never blushed in the sunlight.


So I give this product a thumbs up, if its the same product. I used it to both bond, and fill ribbon stripe mahogany veneer to birch ply, and using the peel membrane trick I invented that Chuck wrote about in Duckworks back in 2005 - 6 or so, leaving the exposed epoxy. Great final surface, without finishing. You cannot brush, spray, or buff a finish as perfect as this creates.

334519334520

[Wade Lippman]

I made cup holders for my boat using the non blush epoxy that I believe is the same here, UV stable (no haze after UV exposure), and did not put a urethane topcoat over them. They never blushed in the sunlight.

I thought blush referred to hardening epoxy forming a coating that new epoxy won't adhere to; you have to either put a second coating on before the first has hardened, or sand the coating off.
All the epoxy I have used has yellowed from UV over time.
Am I confused?
Oh, and when I click on the link it says that the page does not exist.

[Al Launier]

Ditto. Can't get there from here.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Wow, that's a good price for UV epoxy. I suspect I know the source as well, and it is good stuff if it's the source I am thinking. I will surely try it.

Yes- all epoxy will degrade in UV exposure. The stuff with UV inhibitors lasts a whole lot longer. I still clear coat it with a UV inhibiting varnish or automotive clear coat.

[Mac McQuinn]

I've checked the link several times without an issue, seems to work fine.

I just e-mailed Duckworks in hopes of purchasing a "Sample" pack for testing. I have a slew of tests on different materials
I'd like to try.
Mac

[John Blazy]

Yes, Wade, I have the term interchanged before for two separate versions of "Blush". You are correct, in that some cheap epoxies will form a wax skin, but that is rare (West system does a little, and most do not). This needs to be washed off with soap and water, if recoating, but I always sanded.

Then there is the white haze that occurs throughout the thickness of some epoxies from sunlight. West system with normal 206 hardener will "blush". This is not the case with the above mentioned epoxies.

[Mac McQuinn]

I received a reply from Duckworks, they stated they could supply a 1.5 pt. sample pack for $20, this is with the slow hardener. That should supply enough material for testing some joints with different fillers and top coating. They were very quick with MSDS, details and responding to my questions.
Mac