The Donkey Ear Experiment

[Jim Koepke]

I am doing a variation on This "I Can Do That" Project (http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/icandothat?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=pww-jru-nl-160319&utm_source=I%20Can%20Do%20That&utm_campaign=pww-jru-nl-160319&utm_content=828703_ICDT160319&utm_medium=email) from Popular Woodworking.

I wanted to give this a try to see how I like it before committing by building a dedicated donkey ear shooting board.

So using a few things around the shop to modify one of my current shooting boards:

First check the angle to match the splay:

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Once I had the spacing set, I put a couple of screws into the riser and added some blocking at the end to help hold the end square.

Then to the job at hand:

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If I make more of these then a dedicated board will be made.

jtk

[Chuck Hart]

Keep us posted. I have been thinking of making one for very exact corners for boxes. I need to try it also to see if I can make a 45 degree ear wide enough for the box.

[Jim Koepke]

Keep us posted. I have been thinking of making one for very exact corners for boxes. I need to try it also to see if I can make a 45 degree ear wide enough for the box.

I have made ramps and work arounds for 45º shooting. I also made one I called "Eight Eared Donkey" for making octagons:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157217-Eight-Eared-Donkey

My main regret is it should have been made longer. One of the problems when you start making it longer is holding the work.

That became a bit of a problem with today's experiment. The fence on this end of the shooting board is a bit low. The thought behind that is to use it for a stop when working with small pieces or even for sticking small pieces. Another part of the experiment was to make a left handed shooting board.

It may be time to build a more versatile shooting board.

jtk

[James Waldron]

As I read your comment about problems holding the work, I had an eruption. Fortunately, it was in my brain where it could do no harm.

Took a couple of extra minutes to go back and check the "Eight Eared Donkey" to see if my brain fart would still seem to work there. I think so.

Consider:

I propose (and am trying to sort out all the variables to make a design) with the work flat, as in a square-edge shooting board, and a ramp for the plane that will register just below the edge of the board.

1. Holding the work would be much easier (or no more difficult than usual on shooting boards).

2. The plane would be biased into the cut by gravity (and hopefully "automate" maintaining the registration with the board and the work).

3. With multiple ramps or multiple adjustments to a single ramp, coupled with (nice tall) auxiliary fences at corresponding angles, a multitude of regular polyhedra might be produced.

4. With one or more auxiliary bench hooks, the work can be as long as desired, as with a square edge shooting board. No hoisting long work into the air to flail about breaking things. Particularly not breaking the workpiece itself.

I think I'm talking myself into giving it a try!

[Jim Koepke]

I think I'm talking myself into giving it a try!

Hope to see some results.

I have been thinking of something similar but haven't quite got it sorted of yet.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jim

I've made and used a donkey's ear for many years. One like this is set up for both a Stanley #52 chute board and also a wooden ramped board ..


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_m5 36ec68c.jpg

The following are taken from an article on my website ...

Note that the fence has non-slip (salt sprinkled over varnish).

More details. Dovetailed support at rear (for fun), and secured to the main fence with a bolt. The fence has micro-adjustability, the board has levelling feet underneath, so the Donkey's Ear is adjustable in 3 dimensions.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_m4 ea5c3a8.jpg

In use ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_3e 8bf3e4.jpg

It does a great job - although three sides are always easy ... it is the fourth corner that tells all!


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_73 96c8ca.jpg


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard_html_m3 ce43486.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingaMitredPencilBoxwithaShootingBoard.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[mike holden]

I built the 45 degree shooting fixture from Robert Wearing's book. It is the one in the middle.

334664

The others are also useful.
Mike

[Jim Koepke]

Derek and Mike, thanks for posting your boards. Hopefully others will show us what they have built.

jtk

[Glen Canaday]

As I read your comment about problems holding the work, I had an eruption. Fortunately, it was in my brain where it could do no harm.

Took a couple of extra minutes to go back and check the "Eight Eared Donkey" to see if my brain fart would still seem to work there. I think so.

Consider:

I propose (and am trying to sort out all the variables to make a design) with the work flat, as in a square-edge shooting board, and a ramp for the plane that will register just below the edge of the board.

1. Holding the work would be much easier (or no more difficult than usual on shooting boards).

2. The plane would be biased into the cut by gravity (and hopefully "automate" maintaining the registration with the board and the work).

3. With multiple ramps or multiple adjustments to a single ramp, coupled with (nice tall) auxiliary fences at corresponding angles, a multitude of regular polyhedra might be produced.

4. With one or more auxiliary bench hooks, the work can be as long as desired, as with a square edge shooting board. No hoisting long work into the air to flail about breaking things. Particularly not breaking the workpiece itself.

I think I'm talking myself into giving it a try!

Am I misreading a little? Will you have a spoilboard behind the work? If so, how will you maintain the angle on it? Make it replaceable?

[James Waldron]

Am I misreading a little? Will you have a spoilboard behind the work? If so, how will you maintain the angle on it? Make it replaceable?


Still working out the details of a design. I'll see if I can make a decent drawing in the next few days if I can sort out all the geometry.

[Darrell LaRue]

I propose (and am trying to sort out all the variables to make a design) with the work flat, as in a square-edge shooting board, and a ramp for the plane that will register just below the edge of the board.


Yes, that sounds like the one I made. Having the work at an angle is fine for short stuff, but when you are being silly and trying to shoot the ends of 10 foot long pieces of trim it just won't work. At least not in my house. But if the work was horizontal and the plane was at an angle, then I have lots of room to hold the stock securely.

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Darrell

[James Waldron]

I built the 45 degree shooting fixture from Robert Wearing's book. It is the one in the middle.

334664

The others are also useful.
Mike

Well, there's most of "my" idea. I was thinking of a wider ramp for the cheek of the plane, forming a "Vee" for the plane to run in. A little more structure, a lot more control, I think.

Edit: Wearing has several book. A more specific citation would be helpful, please.

[mike holden]

Jim,
One of the places Wearing describes the "improved mitre shooting board" is "Making Woodwork Aids and Devices" ISBN 1861081294 page 78, article 101.
" This tool is an alternative to the traditional 'donkeys ear' shooting board."
I believe that it is also shown in another of his books, but it may have been in one I borrowed from the library.
The device works quite well and has the advantage of having the workpiece lay flat.
Mike

[mike holden]

Well, there's most of "my" idea. I was thinking of a wider ramp for the cheek of the plane, forming a "Vee" for the plane to run in. A little more structure, a lot more control, I think..
Jim, I do not find any problem with control of the plane with this design, YMMV. However, I would ask you to remember to leave some space for swarf and dust to fall into in your "vee". When you get it done, please post a picture for us to see. Always interested in a better mousetrap.
Mike

[James Waldron]

Jim, I do not find any problem with control of the plane with this design, YMMV. However, I would ask you to remember to leave some space for swarf and dust to fall into in your "vee". When you get it done, please post a picture for us to see. Always interested in a better mousetrap.
Mike


That's what's holding me up. I have a prototype getting started; it's going to be screwed together to make it easier to change the design when needed. I've got some decent plywood "leftovers" and some bits of hard maple to use.

[Monte Milanuk]

Yes, that sounds like the one I made. Having the work at an angle is fine for short stuff, but when you are being silly and trying to shoot the ends of 10 foot long pieces of trim it just won't work. At least not in my house. But if the work was horizontal and the plane was at an angle, then I have lots of room to hold the stock securely.

334717

Darrell

I realize I'm fairly late to this thread... but I have a need for something very much like this in the immediate future. Any details or particulars on this style of shooting board? Best way to get the `bed` just right?

[Bob Leistner]

I think what you want is an actual miter jack. http://www.owwm.org/download/file.php?id=117789&t=1

[Monte Milanuk]

Mmm... Pretty sure what I want is what's in that picture... unless a miter jack can handle the end of a long piece of baseboard trim?

[Frederick Skelly]

I have the style in Darrell's post. Built it earlier this year based on a plan in one of the magazines. After a lot of tries - including just this past weekend - I haven't been able to get good, consistent 45* miters. Could be poor construction. Could be poor technique. But the plane just isnt stable in the "groove" and so the miter isnt right. I went back to my old donkey's ear. But that obviously wont help with long baseboard trim.

I look forward to learning from the responses to your question.

Fred

[Aside: Monte, if you dont already know about coping baseboards, you might look it up. That's another way to get nice looking corners.]

[Monte Milanuk]

Yep... all too familiar with coping by now. Which is not the same as being *good* at it or enjoying it, though it got less miserable with a better quality saw & blades.

[Bob Leistner]

I thought I posted a picture, have to try to find a good one. But, yes a miter jack can be used on any length piece of wood.https://tse2.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.kdMPkL7jaSy7fdy9O9_qUgEsDR&pid=15.1&P=0&w=246&h=172

[Monte Milanuk]

As much as I would like (very much) to have one of those... last I checked, a) can't buy one and b) they're a fairly involved project to do *right*. You did see where I said I needed something in the IMMEDIATE future...?

[Bob Leistner]

Making a Miter Jack by Ted Shuck

(http://tmaking.wkfinetools.com/01-shopApl/miterJack/miterJack-1.asp)

[James Waldron]

After a lot of bold talk in the original parts of this thread, I did get around to building the miter shooting board I talked about. It was a simple construction intended as a "proof of concept" which made it rather tedious to tune up to be accurate. I did get there. When I get to a more robust shop tool, I'll work in solid hardwood, probably hard maple. For as long as it holds up, this one is doing pretty well. It's accurate and easy to use and there's no long work piece waving about in the sky. It does want a very sharp blade and a thin shaving, like any shooting board.

The dimensions are sized to fit a 5 1/2 plane for size and mass. If you try one, keep in mind that the dimensions must be sized to the width of a specific plane or you'll have a bit of bother. I wanted the size since I work a good bit in 8/4 stock, and a narrower plane at 45* won't do well. Additionally, I wish now, with the benefit of a bit of experience, that I had made the gap where the edge of the plane rides a bit larger to handle a bit more debris, although the toe of the plane does a decent job of pushing a lot out the end of the groove. For long stock, I use a second board, a bench hook with the same thickness as the bed of the shooting board to hold long stock flat.

Now that it's fettled, it works well. I've tried a variety of work holding variations as well as hand held use. For parts too large for "hand holding" I generally use a spacer and wedges, tapping the far end of the work as it needs to be moved into the blade. Works okay.

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Click 'em to big 'em.

Good luck and post pics if you build one.

Jim

[mike holden]

Thanks Jim, that looks great.
Mike

[Jim Koepke]

A thought for Monte's situation is a shooting guide can be made larger or smaller for a specific task.

A miniature shooting guide could be made to work with a block plane and long thin stock like baseboard strips.

jtk