Green wood bandsaw blade

[Bob Ballard]

I have returned to the Creek and turning after a 10-12 year absence.I have been lurking, trying to catch up with all the changes that have happened.The new equipment and and information available now make me feel like a newby again.
I have a 20" Delta bandsaw and have for years used a Lenox 1/2" hook tooth 3tpi for resawing and bowl blanks.Last week I was working with some large, very wet, Mulberry and the blade would not clear the kerf,no matter how slow I fed the wood.What is the best blade for 8"-12" very wet wood?

[David Delo]

Woodturners 3/8 blade from Highland is what I use. Some people note it doesn't stay sharp as long as other wet wood blades but I just re-sharpen with a diamond burr on a rotary tool.

[Roger Chandler]

The Woodturners blade from Highland Hardware is the best I have ever used.......it is specifically designed with a wider teeth set for chip clearance, It is also .032 thickness vs. most blades which are .025 thickness. That makes them durable, and the 3/8" width is perfect for most curves in bowl blanks. I think they stay sharp as long or longer than most. I have used Timberwolf, Olsen and other blades in the past, and would not go back for bowl blanks. You can order any length you need, and prices are reasonable. You can resharpen with a Dremel tool and cutoff disk, or chainsaw stone.

[Reed Gray]

I use the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades, have for 20 years, which was before I started turning, 1/2 inch blade, and 3 tpi. They have plenty of set for clearing the shavings/dust. I always turn green. For some thing over 6 inches high, I go to my big saw which has a 1 1/4 blade with teeth at 3/4 inch apart. I know there are different tooth sets (how far they stick out to the side) for green and dry woods. If you buy locally, ask the maker. If you buy over the phone, you can still ask. The advantage to the bimetal blades is that they cut a lot longer, straighter, and can be resharpened many times. I take mine to a saw shop. I think they check the set as well as sharpen. They do a far better job than I can. I don't think I have ever worn a blade out. Most of the time, they eventually break after a lot of use. It is possible that your blade was dull.

robo hippy

[John K Jordan]

Lenox 1/2" hook tooth 3tpi for resawing and bowl blanks.Last week I was working with some large, very wet, Mulberry and the blade would not clear the kerf,no matter how slow I fed the wood.What is the best blade for 8"-12" very wet wood?

Bob, this is interesting - I use exactly the same blade on my 18" Rikon saw for all my green wood, mostly for preparing turning squares for spindle turning. I cut up to the limit of the saw, about 12" in several orientations but it has all cut well. I did cut up some green mulberry just a few weeks ago so something else might be wrong. I used to use a thicker 3/4" 3 tpi blades for all green wood but the 1/2" Lenox seems to work as well or better and doesn't require as much force to tension properly.

Assuming this is with a new, sharp blade?

When you say "clear the kerf" do you mean the gullets collect sawdust and strings and it quits cutting, or do you mean the kerf is not wide enough and the wood pinches the sides of the blade?

Do you have a good dust collector on the saw? I have a 5 hp cyclone sucking from the bottom cabinet and from around the lower guides. I had to build a shroud around the guides to get good collections there. If you don't, maybe that's the difference; maybe the suction at the lower guides clears the gullets.

If the gullets are getting filled, is it coming all the way around the wheels and still loaded up when it enters the top of the wood? If so, you might experiment with blowing compressed air across the gullets either below or above the cut. I had to add a stiff brush to one of my bandsaws to help clear sawdust from the gullets.

Also, you said you slowed down the feed without any joy. Did you try increasing the feed rate? I find that the bandsaw often cuts better if the feed rate is not TOO slow.

Any chance of letting the wood sit for a couple of weeks? If on end, a lot of the water may drain out. Or maybe make the first cuts with the chain saw if that will let you feed smaller pieces to the bandsaw?

JKJ