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Scott Welty
03-22-2016, 12:56 PM
Making shelves for above some base cabinets. I plan a 2 inch frame with maybe 1 1/2 inch lip on the shelves. Shelves are not adjustable but will be in dados. Order of events: Make the shelves then add the frame and shelf trim piece by piece? Make some of the frame/shelf trim as one piece and then add pieces to the front of remaining shelves? I'll need tight joints as this is all cherry trim - not painted.
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Jim Becker
03-22-2016, 4:03 PM
If you expect to have to do any scribing, doing the face frames separately is going to be easier, IMHO, especially since you want/need very close finished fitting. All of the built-ins I've done for this house were constructed that way, whether they are cabinets or shelving. You construct the face frames in the shop on top of the piece (see my buffet/hutch project in Woodworking Projects for how I laid the face frame out (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?241330-Project-Buffet-Hutch-Part-One-The-Hutch-(Work-in-Progress-Currently))) so you can take exact measurements from your carcass, but don't install them until after you can refine the fit at the edges in-situ.

Mel Fulks
03-22-2016, 4:08 PM
Firstly, I would not let those stiles hang over beyond the cabinet sides the way they are drawn now. Means you can't get the first and last book out. Some run a small "joiners bead" on stiles to make a flush fit without having to do a lot of scraping and sanding. Then make the shelves stop at the bead. I did notice you did not say they are "book" shelves,but I still think it makes a better looking unit. Oops you did call them book shelves.Sorry

Scott Welty
03-22-2016, 4:52 PM
Ah, gotcha about the first and last book. Moving the 2" frame so that it's flush on the inside leaves 1 1/4 out the outside. I'm just thinking about joining the edges for those two cases. Put a filler between the cases to keep sides parallel?

Mel Fulks
03-22-2016, 5:58 PM
I've done that myself. Made them out of solid cheap wood and screwed the completed cases together with an astragal strip between them. Cases are a little over six feet tall and narrow enough to make two backs out of one 4x8 sheet of plywood.
Shelves are held up by the cheap kv system. Shelves are 3/4 inch plywood with edge tape, the narrowness of the cases makes sure the shelves can't sag even full of folios. Easy to reconfigure. Painted "Windsor chair" green....but real cherry is good too !!

Scott Welty
03-23-2016, 7:22 AM
'astragal strip' . .. help me!

Mel Fulks
03-23-2016, 10:24 AM
It's a moulding shape ,a bead with a flat on each side . Or,generically, a similar shape used often between double doors.
In your aplication ,a strip of wood with a moulding to avoid unsightly butt joint between the cases. Give it a Google .

Scott Welty
03-26-2016, 8:46 AM
Mel,
Thanks for making me think about how the frame (2") overhangs the case sides. I have a client that now prefers there to be no overhang within the case. Fine. Two questions: 1. Where cases come together, have two 2 inch stiles come together or have one 2 inch stile attache to both cases? 2. The end case is 'in the room' not against a wall. Will it not look odd to have the big overhang (1.25 inches) on that last case?

Scott Welty
04-03-2016, 8:26 AM
I've built the left hand cabinet and preparing to assemble the other two that come together. Since we're going for a 2 inch frame on the shelves should I put a 1 inch frame on the right side of the left hand cabinet and also on the left side of the right hand cabinet or put put up a 2 inch frame piece after assembling on site. I don't like the second idea as I need to make a tight joint with all the shelf lips as well.

Jim Becker
04-03-2016, 10:22 AM
My opinion...construct so the look is consistent across the combination. If you're building them as separate units, to maintain the 2" face frame, your edges at the joint of the two units will be 1" on each unit. Personally, I'd build the face frame separate, install the units and then apply the face frame to eliminate the joint. Spacers between the units behind the frames maintain the fit from bench to final install location.

Al Launier
04-03-2016, 10:41 AM
Interesting Jim. Do you mean to maintain the 2" frame by angling the frame over the corner by mitering the edges to a 2" width?

Jim Becker
04-03-2016, 7:53 PM
Perhaps I misunderstood which sections you were talking about joining. If it's for the corner, I'd do things so visually, it maintains the 2", which means about a 1" section on each sides of the "ell" you're forming. I guess in my mind I was seeing the "two" shelving units on the right side...

That said, there is the question about "that corner" relative to storage space. I'm thinking it's a great opportunity for "hidden" storage... ;)

Brian Tymchak
04-04-2016, 8:22 AM
That said, there is the question about "that corner" relative to storage space. I'm thinking it's a great opportunity for "hidden" storage... ;)

I agree that that corner could be better utilized. My thought is to steal some length from the 3 shelves to allow an open corner cabinet to house either more books or maybe display collectibles, etc.

Tom Ewell
04-04-2016, 10:09 AM
This topic reminds me little of an under the stairs bookcase put together some time ago.

Had to 'work' the unit into a tight space and get the parts through a pocket door opening.
The design followed a 'motif established by the stairs and other stuff done on the second level.

All of the vertical dividers are single 3/4, the only preassembled units were the short, corner and end with the raised panel.
The rest of the unit was tied together on site (through dominos and hidden pocket screws) couple of back panels tacked on and all 'face frames' were field applied.
The stiles were 1-1/2" wide with a 3/4" center plow, all edges were rounded over yielding a tolerable 3/8 round profile into the shelf area (also followed motif)
Applied false tops scribed to the walls before 'cheater' trims finished off. Went with simple square corner unit rather than the typical 45 thing, made for a more delicate look and more access into the corner both for books, doodads and folks actually trying to get into the space. Width of units were pretty much dictated by sag and stepping down under the stair carriage.

Of course, had to work the unit into the window wall and clear the trim of same.

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