Yankee Brace head removal??

[Paul Erickson]

I have a Yankee 2101 brace with a frozen head. I am currently trying to free it up with penetrating oil, but was wondering if anyone knew if it is possible to remove the head (I mean the metal bearing portion, I know how to remove the wood part). I suspect I may be out of luck, but would like to see if I can salvage it.

If not, anyone need one for parts? The ratchet portion part works fine, but needs a bit of cleanup.

cheers, Paul

[Roger Nixon]

Here (http://www.georgesbasement.com/fs2101a.htm) ya go.

[Paul Erickson]

Hi Roger,

Thanks for the reply. Actually, the problem is with the other end of the brace. The flat round wooden handle. I was under the impression it was called the head. Perhaps I got that wrong.

The ratchet is working fine. I need to find a way of freeing up the bearing at the other end.

cheers, Paul

[Roger Nixon]

Sorry, I didn't take time to read your post thoroughly. :( The usual question is how to take the chuck apart.
The top piece of wood is called the pad. I haven't tried to take the bearing out of one so I'm unable to answer your question.

[Joe Rogers]

Hi Paul.
I have had to deal with this situation with a 2101 myself. I read that you are willing to give the brace away but I may have some help for the brace repair whatever the disposition.
The pad is seperated from the pad mount by removing the screws and unscrewing the pad. Under the pad is a large threaded boss that screws up into the pad. With the pad removed the metal mount is secured to the shaft with a soft metal clip. Sort of a c-clip but with a funny shape. Remove the clip by carefully driving the clip off with a small punch or nail with the point gound off. Don't lose it. Monitor the orientation of the clip so you can reinstall it later. Now comes the difficult part. The mount is a close fit to the shaft. This is why it can sieze easily with rust.The mount also has 12 or 15 loose bearings in the recess around the shaft. DON'T LOSE THE BEARINGS. DAMHIKT. I needed to use heat from a propane torch to loosten the mount from the shaft. Play the heat on the mount and try to rotate the mount on the shaft as it heats. I used a pair of water pump pliers on the large boss the pad screws onto. Don't hurry the process because the pliers can bugger up the mounting boss threads. When you can turn the mount on the shaft you are nearly there. Let it cool some and add oil or penetrant as you turn it. Inside the mount there is an upper race and the loose bearings. The reload is simple if you completely dissassemble the pad mount. I took mine completely apart so as to clean the corrosion from all the parts. Thats how I lost ...oh never mind.JR

[Paul Erickson]

Thanks very much Joe. I may give that a try. I have pulled off the pad, and it looks like the locking ring is threaded on, but the top of the thread is deformed enough so that it cannot be simply twisted off. I will have to grind down to clean up the thread, and see if I can get it off that way.

Thanks again very much for the time and information.

cheers, Paul