Anyone have any experience with a Ryobi BT3000 table saw?

[dennis thompson]

I am in the market for a table saw in the $200 range. There is a Ryobi BT3000 on Craigslist for $175 that looks to be in excellent condition. What is your opinion on this saw?
Thanks

[Stephen C Cunningham]

Hi Dennis,
I've had one for about 25 years now. it's good for what it's designed for, sheet stock, small dimensional lumber. It's pretty accurate but but takes a lot of checking and fiddling to keep it dialed in. I probably used it more for a router table then a saw. It's pretty light and portable. Just keep in mind it's pretty low powered like any universal motor saw.
Steve

[Matt Day]

There's a whole forum dedicated to the saw.

Sawdustzone.org

[scott spencer]

The BTs can be accurate, but also have some quirks. Small table area in front of the blade, universal motor, light weight, no miter slots unless you have them as an option or build them, there's a knack to getting them setup (true of many other saws too). It's subjective, but my preference would be for a full size cast iron contractor saw or hybrid. The older Ridgid and Craftsman saws sell in that price range pretty frequently in our area....I'd try to avoid the older steel Emerson fences on the older Cman saws though...the later models have a decent aluminum fence that's similar to the Ridgid's.

A little clean up, and these could all be nice saws:
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5493083689.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/hvo/5497297715.html
https://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/5433134201.html
https://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/5459342914.html (check that the fence is included)
https://cnj.craigslist.org/tls/5458206691.html

[Rick Potter]

If you check that website, you will find that the 3000, had an issue with a plastic piece, which was corrected by the newer 3100, which is highly respected for the category.

There may be a fix for this. Again, check the website.

[Earl McLain]

Like Steve, i had my for 20+ years and it was okay. But...
1. It was one of the earliest portables with a riving knife, but that riving knife made blade changes a real chore.
2. The table & rail system do not lend themselves to adding an aftermarket fence. (decent factory fence for homeowner stuff, not so much for woodworking.
3. Right tilt. My preference has become left. May not bother most people.
4. Aluminum marks on every piece of wood. There is a benefit to waxing cast iron.
5. Sliding miter table--cool idea, worked great for narrow stock. Beyond 6" or so--see Scott's comment about not much room to the front of the blade.
6. Light weight makes it easy to move around, but can also make it easy to tip onto the back two legs. I never pushed it all the way over--nor did take any wood to the face or abdomen--but it sure is a fright!!
7. No built in miter slot--and the optional insert for one is really tricky to get in plane with the other parts of the table.

A full depth cast iron table can become something that can be built over time with the addition of aftermarket miter gauge and fence. My BT3000 served me well as a homeowner doing a little something every few years, but unless i knew i was only going to do small boxes and such, it's not something i'd go back to.

Just my opinion.
earl

[Dick Brown]

I to am a former owner. As Earl and others stated, works good for hobby stuff or cut a chunk of molding if that is all you have access to but if I had a choice, I would rather even have a Craftsman contractor with all it's shortcomings if I was to do any serious woodworking. Put a Vega fence on it and it will make a very acceptable saw for most all but the heavy stuff.
Better yet, bite the bullet and get a GOOD saw first time and forever be glad you did.

[John Donhowe]

Add one more former owner, who agrees with all the above. It's probably most fair not to compare it with a cast iron saw, but rather with other light weight portable saws. Int that light I think it compares quite favorably. It's a clever design with a lot of flexibility- adjustable support arms, for example, give it a wider effective work surface than other job site saws.

In my area $175 is on the high side for a BT3000. The major weakness of the 3000, compared to the 3100, are the shims that the motor assembly slides on when elevating the blade. The shims can slip out, and if forced, the elevation threads in the motor mount (aluminum) can strip. Before buying, inspect the blade elevation/tilt mechanism carefully. If it's been well maintained (kept clean and lubed), the blade should move with little effort.

A couple of significant benefits of the Ryobi over older C'man and other similar cast iron saws: The BT3000 has a riving knife rather than a splitter, and dust collection is much better- most old contractor saws have no provisions (other than gravity) for dust collection.

FWIW, I upgraded to a Craftsman 22116 (granite top, not cast iron)- four times the weight my BT3100 was, with the consequent benefits and drawbacks. The Ryobi was good for what it was, but I'd never go back.

[dennis thompson]

Thanks to everyone for all the responses. I think I'll pass on it.

[Jim Dwight]

Probably too late now but I will add a different opinion. I still have a BT3100 and have no plans to "upgrade". The rip fence on the BT3000 and 3100 moves easily and reliably locks down parallel to the blade once set. I haven't had to reset mine in years. Much better rip fence than other inexpensive options. The shims on the BT3000 were reportedly not good but can be upgraded to the BT3100 shims. These lock the blade in position to slide exactly up and down. But they have to be lubed with a dry lube occasionally. I don't love that but it only takes a few minutes. I have the saw on a flip up stand to make it easier. I do not use the sliding crosscut fence. Others love it. I'd much rather have a miter gauge slot. But I use my CMS or RAS or track saw for crosscuts.

I used to have my BT3100 on a mobile base with the extension rails for 60 inch rip capacity. I cut up full sheets on it. But now it is set up in the original configuration and I use the track saw for wider cuts.

The early BT3000s had a 13A motor but later 3000s and all the 3100 had a 15A motor (universal). It is a belt drive, however, so it will rip 3.5 inches. I have done it in hardwood. You need a clean ripping blade but if you use that (which you should regardless) it will do it. I use a full kerf ripping blade. I have both full and narrow kerf in other blades and see little if any difference. I do not consider the saw underpowered but it does show when your blade is dirty or dull faster than more powerful saws. Keep the blade clean and reasonably sharp and it works well. I have made 7 bedroom sets on it so far. Lots of other furniture too. It is NOT a limitation. Plenty of accuracy and power. Like any tool, you have to learn to use it.

For my small shop, I would MUCH rather have my BT3100 AND my DeWalt track saw than a bigger cast iron table saw. The track saw is much preferable for big pieces of wood, sheet or solid. The table saw is fine and doesn't take a ton of space. I collect the dust with my shop vacuum saving the space requirement of a DC.

If the BT3000 is a 15A model and you are willing to swap out the shims, I think it would make you a good saw. But if you have a lot of space and want to work conventionally (instead of using custom jigs for the BT) a hybrid saw might be a better idea. Depends on how you want to work. But anybody who says you can't do good work on a BT3100 needs to read up or practice up a bit more. They are solid saws. Something between a portable and a "normal" stationary saw. You should check out the sawdust zone (where I am JimD) if you are still interested. Lots of examples of jigs for the saw and projects made on it. Plenty of proof they will do good work.

[David Sloan]

I am in the market for a table saw in the $200 range. There is a Ryobi BT3000 on Craigslist for $175 that looks to be in excellent condition. What is your opinion on this saw?
Thanks

I agree with the last post by Jim Dwight. I have had the BT 3000 for 25 years and I think it was a remarkable buy in terms of what it cost and what I have been able to do with it over the years. It is what it is, as various people have commented but it can be tuned to do very accurate work. The fence is pretty darn good for the money and the sliding table works well. I also have one of my routers mounted under one of the saw tables and built a router fence that fits over the BT 3000 fence. It makes a very good router table, better than most router tables out there, I can't think of any tool that I own (and I own a lot) that has been more valuable over the years.