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Keith Downing
03-20-2016, 7:36 PM
I'm wondering what the proper paint (or other adhesive) you'd use to create a solid black back on a clear acrylic. I'm going to be engraving a logo on the top and bottom, but the client wants it to be lit and for the neon chalk markers to show up well?

If you have no idea what I'm describing, it's something like this but with a custom engraving top and bottom:

334165

Bert Kemp
03-20-2016, 8:48 PM
I find the appliance epoxy sticks to most anything, and the Krylon paint made for plastic should work OK

Keith Downing
03-20-2016, 10:19 PM
Thanks, I'll checkout both tomorrow.

Braden Todd
03-20-2016, 10:41 PM
Could you have someone uv print it black?

John Noell
03-20-2016, 11:01 PM
I generally use cheap spray can black (2 coats). I have also used chalkboard black (1 brushed coat). I have had no problems with either.

Dan Hintz
03-21-2016, 6:13 AM
All else fails, use a piece of black acrylic behind... very little work other than cutting to size.

Doug Griffith
03-21-2016, 8:48 AM
I'm wondering what the proper paint (or other adhesive) you'd use to create a solid black back on a clear acrylic. I'm going to be engraving a logo on the top and bottom, but the client wants it to be lit and for the neon chalk markers to show up well?

If you have no idea what I'm describing, it's something like this but with a custom engraving top and bottom:

334165

My suggestion: instead of engraving, leave the masking on and vector cut through it with just enough power to get through. Weed the logos, burnish down the edges, paint the color, weed the background, then paint black. This all happens on the backside in reverse.

Mike Null
03-21-2016, 9:28 AM
You might also do a search of "edge lit acrylic".

Keith Downing
03-21-2016, 12:32 PM
All else fails, use a piece of black acrylic behind... very little work other than cutting to size.


I was thinking this as well, but was going to just paint some cheap 1/4 inch wood or paneling

Mike Null
03-21-2016, 12:36 PM
Why not just use black vinyl.

Keith Downing
03-21-2016, 3:14 PM
My suggestion: instead of engraving, leave the masking on and vector cut through it with just enough power to get through. Weed the logos, burnish down the edges, paint the color, weed the background, then paint black. This all happens on the backside in reverse.

I'm afraid you're going to have to help me out Doug, what does "weed the logos" and "weed the background" mean exactly? I tried a google search but I'll give you one guess what I got a million pictures of. LOL

Phil Noakes
03-21-2016, 4:10 PM
Have you considered using an acrylic that already has a black back? We make a matte clear/black LaserMark Reverse product. Product codes:
922-401=1/16" gauge, 942-401=1/8" gauge.

Tony Lenkic
03-21-2016, 4:19 PM
Have you considered using an acrylic that already has a black back? We make a matte clear/black LaserMark Reverse product. Product codes:
922-401=1/16" gauge, 942-401=1/8" gauge.


Check out this video ..........Weeding
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO-SkuVHqAU


Edit..........this message is to Keith not Phil. Sorry Phil.

Dan Hintz
03-21-2016, 5:30 PM
I was thinking this as well, but was going to just paint some cheap 1/4 inch wood or paneling
Make sure the wood grain doesn't show through...

Doug Griffith
03-21-2016, 5:48 PM
I'm afraid you're going to have to help me out Doug, what does "weed the logos" and "weed the background" mean exactly? I tried a google search but I'll give you one guess what I got a million pictures of. LOL

Weeding is the process of removing areas of film. In your case, you remove the protective film (paper) on the acrylic to expose areas you wish to paint. Going the route I mentioned gives you a second-surface image where everything is seen through the clear side of the acrylic. It's durable and gives a really clean, pro finish. All art is processed in reverse.

Doug Griffith
03-21-2016, 5:54 PM
Weeding is the process of removing areas of film. In your case, you remove the protective film (paper) on the acrylic to expose areas you wish to paint. Going the route I mentioned gives you a second-surface image where everything is seen through the clear side of the acrylic. It's durable and gives a really clean, pro finish. All art is processed in reverse.

Here you go!