Am i nuts or just a woodworker.

[Patrick Walsh]

I took delivery of over 330BF of 12/4 ash this past week for a bench build. About 70BF of that is still in slab form.

The nuts comment is directed at me using a laser level to put down my base of stickers. Most of the material came 12/4x12'x6". Being i want my top to finish as close to 6" as possible and with the 12' lengths i figured i best take care in the stickering and the shop acclimation process as these boards already have some twist and i hope to not create more.

The general plan has been to build a split top BenchCrafted style bemch but with the base drawbored and pinned together vrs the Benchcrafted lag bolts. The only real amendment i was going to make the Benchcrafted plan was the overall size. My bench will be 9' long by 32" wide and to date the plan was 6" thick all around baring the stretchers. The stretchers would be a finished 2.75" x 6".

Now that i have this lumber in hand and have had the chance to pick through it i am thinking of making two changes, i would appreciate some feedback. First i am considering opting out of the split top for a solid top. In this case i may do the through mortise and tennon leg or i may not? I kinda like the streamlined look of the uninterupted front and solid top of the non through joint as per the Benchcrafted plan. On the other hand not doing the through double tennon feels a bit like cheating and with the right material " wood species i really like this detail. Im not extremely fond of ash and specifically think in building this bench with ash the solid top regular old non through mortise and tennon joint might look better in the end.

The second thought or question is with regard to the dimension of specifically the legs. Being most benches are 4" thick tops and 6"x3.5" legs i am considering growing my legs a bit to keep things in scale to the original design. If so i would go like 8"x5.5" with the same 6"x2.75" stretcher and 5.75" top.

This is my primary question that i am seeking feedback on. I have this giant 12/4 x 24" x 12' slab. It has just enough twist in it that it is pretty usless for anything but shorter pieces namely i look at it and see some really nice beefy legs. Growing the legs would also allow for a full height 8" wide leg vise with no need to taper or any of that. I really like the look of the French Oak Roubo benches Chris Shwarze and company built with the original Roubo style leg vise.

So am i crazy to build my bench with 8"x5.75" legs and a 5.75" top. If not the forementioned 8" dimensions then the whole bench will be 5.75" all around.

FYI, i put this here vrs. the design forum as that forum gets very little love plus this bench is intended for hand tool work primarally so i figured this was the place to ask these questions.

thanks again,

334161334162334163

[Chris Fournier]

Extremely heavy build if I am understanding you correctly. I would never really see why a top would be thicker than 3" and I've built several benches. I do plenty of hand tool woodworking on my benches and have never felt that they have been too light. My legs have never exceeded 3" square as a side note.

[Brian Holcombe]

The bench as designed originally is massive, I think you could tone it down a bit and save yourself the hernia while still making a plenty serviceable bench.

[Stanley Covington]

1. On the solid vs split benchtop: My vote is yes.

2. Through mortise and tenon leg to top joint: My vote is yes. First, this joint is not needed to keep the top from floating away. But if made correctly, it can add quite a bit of rigidity where resistance to racking forces is most effective. Second, you have a choice of making the tenon fairly shallow or through. This is because, in the case of a non-through tenon, you must leave a good thickness of the top's material in place above the mortise to keep hammer work on the benchtop (i.e.mortising) from breaking through the thinner material above the mortise in the benchtop. But making the mortise shallow reduces the leg and tenon's resistance to a bending moment, potentially reducing your bench's rigidity. A through tenon is the best and most craftsman-like solution IMO. If you screw up cutting the joint, it will forever look nasty, so be careful.

3. Leg dimensions: Width is more important than depth depending on the likely direction of racking forces from planing, etc. A wider leg is more resistant to racking forces. A heavier leg adds mass to the bench. All good things. The only two negatives I can imagine is that bigger leg can make the doghole layout uneven, and a wider laeg makes it a bit more difficult to get stuff into and out of the storage shelf under the bench. Neither of these are a big deal IMO. I vote for big and fat on condition that you can handle the weight of moving it around.

Not sure if you have more questions... your post was a bit disorganized.

You already know what I think about the Roubo leg joints: Twin rectangular tenons are excellent; One rectangular tenon and one decorative dovetail tenon exposed at the edge and that can compromise the benchtop's integrity are silly. If you want decoration, the leg vise is the ideal place to concentrate your efforts. You could also make the twin through-tenons shaped like back-to-back dovetails.

Oh yea, make sure you plan the workbench size so you can get it out of the house.

Stan

[Patrick Walsh]

Minimum i will go is all 6"x6" everything....

The lumber has been purchased and was roughed at the mill to a solid 6". I'm not about to end up with a bunch of 2" ash rips.

Clearly i get the heft is overkill. It is insight such that Stanley offered with regard to the dog holes amd a wider leg that i am concerned with most.

Im not so much a frugal person. As much as i am not proud of this fact i dont feel bad about it with regard to this bench. The fact is i will live with this bench forever. I already exercised a bunch of frugality when i opted for ash vrs other much more expensive options.

This bench will be 32" wide as it needs to be so to clear another bench that it will be situated side by side with. If i do not make this bench wider it will not be able to clear the front of the abutting bench when using the leg vise. I will attache pictures if i can find appropriat ones.

I will build another bench after this one "couple years" that will sit in the middle of my shop and replace my Festool MFT tables. This bench will probably be more like 7'x20"and all 6x6" lumber. My intention with this ash bench it to make a highly functional bench that i am not limited by design as to ease of work holding.

My intention is to also beat it senseless from day one, i need a real bench asap as what i have it a real PITA. When my second bench is built it will be more of a shop queen although also used without question. This ash bench will be where i get down and dirty and not worrry about hurting something. It will probably be where i do much of my finishing and assembly long term.

My shop door is 37" wide so no problems getting this thing out. The shipping reciept did say the delivery was 1300lbs. I would be lying if i said that did not make me think. On the other hand i moved that combo machine into my house with realtive ease. I also moved my TS and shaper from the back of my truck into my basement pretty much by myself. I have a pallet jack and am not unwilling to recruit help when needed if the need should arrise. Good chance me and this bench die in this house. As much as i would like to move to a property with a barn i dont think its in the cards.

The last couple pictures show that i have cut a section of a old existing bench out to finish the end pannel on my ongoing miter station project. These pictures also show a small low slab that is poured into my basment floor. This slab has also influenced my decision on a bench going in this spot. I will use a cement saw to cut grooves front to back in this slab as to be able to slide the bnch toght to the wall.



The bench as designed originally is massive, I think you could tone it down a bit and save yourself the hernia while still making a plenty serviceable bench.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Crazy/woodworker; potAto/potahto!

Nice shop! I envy your stash of lumber. I have ordered the ash for my bench, and hopefully will have it in a few weeks. I would love to have a slab like that and 6x6's to work with.

You will get lots of advise on either side of the fence. I have never seen someone sorry they built a bench too heavy (although I am sure they exist in small quantities), and have seen plenty of folks sorry they built it too light. 6" is pretty darned thick. You will certainly need to drill out the back of your dog holes for the holdfasts. No big deal. If you have 3/4" dog holes, drill from the back about 1 1/4 diameter and 2" deep. Maybe more- I would start there. The holdfasts need to be able to pivot to a slight angle to hold. Too deep of a hole makes them stay upright and not bind. Back-drilling the hole wider on the bottom fixes that.

3" for a top may be fine, but a Roubo has a lot of overhang. Hang a heavy pattern maker's vise off the long end and that is a lot of stress over time. I personally stand on my bench frequently to get ladders and surfboards down from the ceiling. Everyone's perfect bench is not the same.

There is also an aesthetic aspect to a thick top on a Roubo bench. I personally think it needs a 4" top to balance out the wide legs, visually speaking. Others may disagree. That is why I say everyone's perfect bench is slightly different. Some like clutter catching trays. I personally prefer a shelf just below the top. I do like the slots in the Benchcrafted split top Roubo.

My legs will be 4"x6". I felt that thicker than 4" wastes space below where I will have two shelves. The top shelf will recess so the sliding deadman can still work as planned. The stretchers are 2"x5" (I think- I need to look at the drawing again- I believe they are 5" wide. It may have been 4".) The top shelf stretcher is 2"x3".

My bench will have a pattern maker's vise on one end and a twin screw vise on the other. The top will be between 4.5 and 5". I need to see my lumber first. I want it heavy. Also a thicker top is good when chopping mortices. It has a solid feel and no vibration.

[Chris Hachet]

If nothing else when you get bored with woodworking you can land aircrft on the blessed thing...interesting build....

I went the other way, My bench is Roubo style but 2' by 5', plenty serviceable, Benchcrafted classic leg vise works very well.

[Brian Holcombe]

I don't think you'll regret how heavy it will be, in use. You certainly will not regret the length, 9' is great, especially if you are planning to work tabletops, beams, or long Cabinet tops, etc. Building it will offer certain challenges, and IMO if you can find a way to cut down the depth and make it up behind the bench with tool holding or something, you'll save yourself much future aggravation.

Ash is a nice choice, it deadens the noise when chopping on it. My saw bench is ash and I prefer to chop on that than on my workbench.

[Chris Fournier]

Perhaps you have made up a scale drawing of your proposed bench already but if you haven't I strongly suggest that you do. Also I'd suggest that you do a few calculations to see how much you can expect your super thick bench will move in service, that's once it is properly dry and acclimated to your shop space before you even start machining it... The distortion of the cross sections that you are using will be significant.

My suggestions to tone down the dimensions of your "timbers" had nothing to do with frugality but more to do with reality and practicality. Regardless enjoy your bench build!

[Prashun Patel]

Mass is usually a good thing, but when it's too big, you may have some issues clamping, moving, drilling dog holes, and arranging storage beneath.

My concern is with the over-big legs. They can interfere with where you drill dog holes. If you have that planned out, then go for it.

On the other side, I will say that I believe a stout and stable base is more important than a stout top. It is more efficient to resist movement in the base than to rely on the weight and friction of the top.

[James Pallas]

Patrick it seems like you have a good plan. The only draw back I can see is it will be heavy to move. If you don't make those thru mortises you may regret it later when you look at your bench for yourself. Go with what you want and you will be happy. What you want and not what will get you by is the answer.
Jim

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Wow, I was so focused on that gorgeous slab, I missed that Felder planer. Oh my. I went to the pics again to see if your floors were concrete because weight would be a big issue if they were joists. That is a nice setup ya got there. You certainly subscribe to the "go big or go home" philosophy! Nice wood on the racks in the background too.

Christopher Schwarz did a good q/a interview focused on workbenches here:
http://www.woodtalkshow.com/episodes/chris-schwarz-interview/

He is pretty much about using what you have available. You have some amazing lumber there- so use it. It's overkill, but so is a 300hp engine in a car- yet oh what fun a 300hp car is. Schwarz mentions Roubo suggested up to 6" for his bench. I would certainly use lag bolts/screws to affix the top just in case you ever did need to move it- or when you go to the big workshop in the sky and someone else needs to. From the looks of your shop you aren't planning on going anywhere anytime soon. People worry too much about moving stuff. That Feleder monster planer you've got there will be a bigger challenge come moving day.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

P.S. You know your shop is big when you have a pallet jack.

[Jim Belair]

I would build the bench narrower than 32" and just have it stand away from the wall to clear the adjacent cabinetry. This allows clamping across it and avoids the back of the bench being "storage".

[Stanley Covington]

I would build the bench narrower than 32" and just have it stand away from the wall to clear the adjacent cabinetry. This allows clamping across it and avoids the back of the bench being "storage".

I agree. I have a 36" wide workbench, and only need the full width when making doors. The rest of the time, the extra width just gets in the way. 24" is wide enough for most purposes.

Stan

[Patrick Walsh]

The jury is still out for me on Reducing the depth. You all have me thinking though. I am not keen on a space behind the bench and between the back of the bench and the wall. That to me sounds like a tool and material eater.

I suppose that maybe there is no need for the face of this bench to clear the face of my miter station. I just feel like the first time this poses me a problem i am going to really wish i had made the bench deeper.

What is the future aggrivation you foresee in me building the bench 32" deep?


I don't think you'll regret how heavy it will be, in use. You certainly will not regret the length, 9' is great, especially if you are planning to work tabletops, beams, or long Cabinet tops, etc. Building it will offer certain challenges, and IMO if you can find a way to cut down the depth and make it up behind the bench with tool holding or something, you'll save yourself much future aggravation.

Ash is a nice choice, it deadens the noise when chopping on it. My saw bench is ash and I prefer to chop on that than on my workbench.

[Patrick Walsh]

The wood was kiln dried. Chances are i do not even begin the build for 4-6 weeks. If it better to let the wood sit longer in my shop i am fine with that.

I have about six other projects going or in need of getting done so i wint be bored. I would however like to get this one started asap as it will make my other projects much more easy and thus enjoyable.

As for the bench moving long term after being built i am ok with that. If i hsve to flatten it once or twice a year for a few years till it settles down no big deal. Im in this bench for the long haul plus i dont mind a little shop maintenance from time to time.



Perhaps you have made up a scale drawing of your proposed bench already but if you haven't I strongly suggest that you do. Also I'd suggest that you do a few calculations to see how much you can expect your super thick bench will move in service, that's once it is properly dry and acclimated to your shop space before you even start machining it... The distortion of the cross sections that you are using will be significant.

My suggestions to tone down the dimensions of your "timbers" had nothing to do with frugality but more to do with reality and practicality. Regardless enjoy your bench build!

[Patrick Walsh]

Long term i will probably build a cabinet to go under the bench.

the dog hoe thing is a concern. Both with regard to spacing due to legs and the hold fast issue. I think the hold fast issue is easily delt with if planned for. The dog hole thing well im not sure. 8" is a pretty big spread to not have a dog...


Mass is usually a good thing, but when it's too big, you may have some issues clamping, moving, drilling dog holes, and arranging storage beneath.

My concern is with the over-big legs. They can interfere with where you drill dog holes. If you have that planned out, then go for it.

On the other side, I will say that I believe a stout and stable base is more important than a stout top. It is more efficient to resist movement in the base than to rely on the weight and friction of the top.

[Patrick Walsh]

Gonna go with the classic through tennons. I have been talked back into them.

The reality is i have been looking at benches built with them lustfully for a little long time. I will regret not doing them.

As for moving i have a pallet jack. I will design the bench with the pallet jack in mind. When i have to get it off the wall to re flatten it ill just scoop it up and move it out from the wall by the stretchers. If i have to move it further well i also have a plan for that. Ill share some interesting pictures down thread later of me moving shop stuff.


Patrick it seems like you have a good plan. The only draw back I can see is it will be heavy to move. If you don't make those thru mortises you may regret it later when you look at your bench for yourself. Go with what you want and you will be happy. What you want and not what will get you by is the answer.
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

The jury is still out for me on Reducing the depth. You all have me thinking though. I am not keen on a space behind the bench and between the back of the bench and the wall. That to me sounds like a tool and material eater.

I suppose that maybe there is no need for the face of this bench to clear the face of my miter station. I just feel like the first time this poses me a problem i am going to really wish i had made the bench deeper.

What is the future aggrivation you foresee in me building the bench 32" deep?

It will make for a great deal more work each time you flatten and it adds more wood to expand and contract. Over 9' that extra 6" is a lot more wood to work.

I think the traditional approach will do well for you, I might build one in a year or two and shrink the klausz bench down for joinery only.

[Patrick Walsh]

Thanks for the compliments. As you noticed i kinda love my shop. Dont we all though...

The wood is a addiction. I almost hate using the real special stuff. Being i pretty much only buy special stufv it always kinda hurts. It seems as soon as i put a dent in a species i am attached to i run out and replace it.

The ash will pretty much all get used for this bench. If not i will build some sawhorses and a saw bench.


Wow, I was so focused on that gorgeous slab, I missed that Felder planer. Oh my. I went to the pics again to see if your floors were concrete because weight would be a big issue if they were joists. That is a nice setup ya got there. You certainly subscribe to the "go big or go home" philosophy! Nice wood on the racks in the background too.

Christopher Schwarz did a good q/a interview focused on workbenches here:
http://www.woodtalkshow.com/episodes/chris-schwarz-interview/

He is pretty much about using what you have available. You have some amazing lumber there- so use it. It's overkill, but so is a 300hp engine in a car- yet oh what fun a 300hp car is. Schwarz mentions Roubo suggested up to 6" for his bench. I would certainly use lag bolts/screws to affix the top just in case you ever did need to move it- or when you go to the big workshop in the sky and someone else needs to. From the looks of your shop you aren't planning on going anywhere anytime soon. People worry too much about moving stuff. That Feleder monster planer you've got there will be a bigger challenge come moving day.

[Patrick Walsh]

In all honesty for functional reasons with regard to work holding i would prefer the more shallow bench. On the other hand the added depth is attractive as i build lots of cabinetts and have a house full of doors and windows i plan to make innthe next couple years. The doors will be made this summer. The windows next year.

The depth is attractive to me when i have my second bench built and this bench become a place to assemble and glue projects.

I may be wrong on this one though.


I would build the bench narrower than 32" and just have it stand away from the wall to clear the adjacent cabinetry. This allows clamping across it and avoids the back of the bench being "storage".

[Patrick Walsh]

I will make plenty of doors on the bench for both myself and clients so i am kinda planning for that. I do have a 4'X8 outfeed table for my TS but i hate putting anything on it as it always ends up in the way when you need the saw.


I agree. I have a 36" wide workbench, and only need the full width when making doors. The rest of the time, the extra width just gets in the way. 24" is wide enough for most purposes.

Stan

[Patrick Walsh]

That is a good point. I suppose i could make it more shallow and when i need it to clear the face of my miter station pick it up with my pallet jack and move it forward a bit.

How often do people find they put a board in their leg vise and it extends beyond the left side of their benches?


It will make for a great deal more work each time you flatten and it adds more wood to expand and contract. Over 9' that extra 6" is a lot more wood to work.

I think the traditional approach will do well for you, I might build one in a year or two and shrink the klausz bench down for joinery only.

[Patrick Walsh]

As for moving heavy stuff well im not so worried. When the time comes i am sure i will find a way to deal. I actually rather enjoy the challenge of moving heavy awkward and scary stuff. I think it comes from being a builder and tradesman.

Right now the house we are building is for a disabled gentleman. It a fairly modest house but it will have a three floor elevator running right up the middle of it. It will sit on a 4'x8'x8' pad. It also has a french drain around it that empties into a giant dry well as the water table in this particular location is quite high.

Not that i enjoyed digging this hole and sending all the dirt and rubbel up a conveyor belt and out the basement window but you get used to it. Point is when you do such things for a living doign what you have to do to get a 1500lb machine you really want int your basement or a 700lb bench out seems like fun.

All be it a twisted form of fun.

In the pictures bellow is a ramp i made of LVL'S and 6x6 PT and 4x4 doug fir. The whole apparatise remains in my basemet. It actaully is lag bolted to my foundation and is the base for the lumber rack above and behind the pile of ash for my new bench.

The crane was expensive. I wont do that again till i move or buy a slider?

334272334273

[Phil Mueller]

I had to settle on 6'X2' given the small shop space. After only a few months working with it, I think a few inches wider would be nice...but really because it's only 6' long. If it were 9', I think 2' wide would be ample.

All this practicality talk aside, I'm anxious to see you build this monster. Something that massive is going to be cool as heck.

[Chris Fournier]

You don't need a wide bench to make doors, you need wide T-Bars to do your glue up on your modestly proportioned bench top to make doors! Regardless of your bench width, panel and carcass glue ups are infinitely easier and the outcome more accurate when you use T-bars as they allow you unfettered access to the project piece with your clamps.

My main bench is 22" wide and 86" long and I have build plenty of doors and cabinets on the bench.

[Patrick Walsh]

So all day i have been thinking about the possability of making the bench 24" deep. I dont know though, right now the bench that was there was 30" deep and i rather like it.

I get that functionaly the 24" bench is plenty deep for the purpose served. On the other hand i have never once had a hard time reaching to the other side of my now 30" deep bench.

The one thing i am not sold on is a 8" space between my bench and the wall. The bench will sit tight against my miter station to the left. On the right i am leaving 1' for the tail vise. Point is getting behind the bench when a tool drops or shavings or whatever need oicking up sounds like a PITA!

The only thing i can think would be to make a wall mounted tool tray much like those built into many benches. This would save me the headache of flattening all that wood from time to time when the bench top needs flattening. It would also assure no tools can hit the floor over the back side of my bench as i could push them up against each other tight.

I could build my wall out more as i do have to frame it to accept more of the T&G pine on the rest of my shops walls beforecthis bench is put in its final resting place. If i do this i will end up burying 8" of the nice mahogany pannel i just put on my miter station. Sure the bench all but blocks this side of my miter station anyway but blocking it is kinda different than burying it behind framing and T&G pine. That sounds hackish to me..

[Jerry Olexa]

2 thoughts:

1. I personally have my main bench free standing (i.e., in middle , away from walls)..This allows me to move around the project at hand as well as handling of clamping.

2. Plan ahead on "bench dog" holes...The thickness of the top could be a pain as you start drilling the holes. Further, plan holes so they do not interfere with the stout legs you plan as well as vises extending underneath.

Just my thoughts..Something to consider.. G Luck.

[Curt Putnam]

As far as the leg to top joinery is concerned - a leg vise can exert a lot of pressure against the top. If the leg joint (a la Roubo) is exposed at the front edge that bearing force is then applied to the leg and not the top. Probably not a huge difference if your mortising is dead nuts. I'm going to go with a wider bench since mine will be accessible from all sides. Split top allows different projects to be staged without necessarily interfering with the others as well as clamping and tool safe keeping options - look at Benchcrafted again. A split top may sacrifice some rigidity and may be more difficult to keep level

[Prashun Patel]

I think having some space off the back edge is critical if you plan on doing any front to back planing. But a 30"+ bench could solve that issue.

I also think it's good to have a lot of space on both ends of the bench. Being able to work in front of the vises as well as in line with can be helpful especially if you use your vises for carving and shaping operations.

[Patrick Walsh]

Jerry,

Good thoughts,

The dog holes and my wide legs are of comcern to me also. I may just shoot for 6" all around.

I could not agree more with your thought on being able to move around all four sides of a bench. In a years time maybe a bit more i will build a second Roubo that will sit in the center of my shop. That bench will be a much more reasonable 7'x22"x33"

This bench at such time will surely get used by maybe not primaraly. It will be more my beater bench. A place where assemble things and pound them into submision if need be, work with messy chemicals somforth and so on.


2 thoughts:

1. I personally have my main bench free standing (i.e., in middle , away from walls)..This allows me to move around the project at hand as well as handling of clamping.

2. Plan ahead on "bench dog" holes...The thickness of the top could be a pain as you start drilling the holes. Further, plan holes so they do not interfere with the stout legs you plan as well as vises extending underneath.

Just my thoughts..Something to consider.. G Luck.

[Patrick Walsh]

As i mentioned to jerry this long term will not be my primary bench. I could not agree more that having space to access the sides would be important.

In a years time or so i will build another bench. For now i am building this bench as the bench it replaced i had to rip out to finish my miter station. As mentioned up thread there is a small cement pad under this bench rendering the spot all but usless for much of anyhting else. I Opted to build this bench now vrs the one in the middle of my shop for a couple reasons.

One being the giant hole where i ripped out my old bench would drive me nuts. Two i want to build the bench in the middle of my shop out of much more pricey material than ash. I figured this ash bench would give me a chance to iron out any kinks before diving into my dream bench.


I think having some space off the back edge is critical if you plan on doing any front to back planing. But a 30"+ bench could solve that issue.

I also think it's good to have a lot of space on both ends of the bench. Being able to work in front of the vises as well as in line with can be helpful especially if you use your vises for carving and shaping operations.

[Robert Engel]

My primary work bench is of a piece of bowling alley lane and dims are 34 wide X 90 long.
The only drawback is a huge bench seems to accumulates a lot of tools.
OTOH, you have plenty of room for really long boards or to use as an assembly table if needed.

Your bench is over the top a bit for ww'ing IMO. For engine or transmission repairs it would be quite sufficient. ;)
I don't know what kind of pounding one could due to warrant such massive dimensions.
5x5 legs are plenty big enough and a 4" top is the maximum I would ever build.

Bottom line whatever works for you, its your bench you sound like a man who knows his mind!

[Kees Heiden]

Engines and transmissions of sea going vessels you mean! That's going to be a bench to survive atomic warfare. :p

[Chris Hachet]

Engines and transmissions of sea going vessels you mean! That's going to be a bench to survive atomic warfare. :p

Let's combine your idea and my idea and make it an aircraft carrier...I wonder how well Ash floats?

[Patrick Walsh]

Sound like a man that knows my mind?

[Phil Mueller]

Let 'em joke...I can't wait to see this build. I think you're looking at Guinness Record fame here.

[Chris Hachet]

Let 'em joke...I can't wait to see this build. I think you're looking at Guinness Record fame here.


It will certainly be epic!

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I just stumbled across this. It appears to be 6" thick. That leg vise is pretty massive as well.

http://thisweekinwood.com/this-week-in-wood/2012/10/roubo-woodworking-bench-complete

[Chris Hachet]

I just stumbled across this. It appears to be 6" thick. That leg vise is pretty massive as well.

http://thisweekinwood.com/this-week-in-wood/2012/10/roubo-woodworking-bench-complete

That's a really nice looking bench!

[Malcolm Schweizer]

That's a really nice looking bench!

Much less "clunky" than I thought it would look.

[Chris Fournier]

Yeah, how many clamps would you use to glue up a 6" thick 9' long top I wonder... I guess I'd use my vacuum press.

[Patrick Walsh]

Malcome,

I have looked at that bench a number of times.

Google French oak Roubo and you will see other benches that finish at 6" thick both legs and top.

I think the proportions are very flattering imop. To be honest this is pretty much my sreason for going so thick.

So I'm thinking maybe 9-10 claps per laminated section. I would like to glue the top in four laminations. Two a day over a weekend. That means I need 20 clamps over 32".

Chances are I'll round out my K body collection. Being I have only 4 clamps over 32" it looks like I'll be spending some big money by the time this bench is built.

I'm also considering having Lake Erie make me a custom ash screw along with a blacksmith some other custom pieces..

Even this ashen u @$5.50 a BF is starting to get stupid expensive. You only live once and this is what I do for fun so se la ve or however that is spelt. Maybe a better saying is say good by to a months income for a stinking bench!

[Kees Heiden]

C'est la vie.

[Pat Barry]

There's nothing stopping you. Go ahead and let us know how things are going as you progress. Are you going to start with the base or with the top?

[Patrick Walsh]

I kinda had a feeling it was a C with a funny little hash above it.


C'est la vie.

[Patrick Walsh]

Well right now i am in talks with Lake Erie and Pete Ross to make me a custom wooden screw vise. I need to source some 24/4 cherry ash or other interesting and hard wood. Im not thrilled on the maple Lake Erie uses in conjunction with my ash.

Last week i purchsed the ash lumber to to the tune of $2500 delivered. Then this week my machinist finally finished some parts that i had him making for some custom pneumatic air clamps i have been building. The bill was twice what he originally quoted. Being thsimthe case i gotta settle down on the tool purchases for a few weeks minimum. The reality is i need #7 or #8 jointer plane, a dowel plate and maybe a tennon saw i can cut a 6" tennon with to build thsi bench. I could just use my band saw for the legs and just might in the end as the $$$$ is getting crazy...

After the lumber sits another month or so i will cut it up rough legths. 36" for the legs and 10' for the top. I have to ripp up that big slab for the legs. I might do that this weekend!? After everything is roughed to length ill let it sit another couple weeks. At this point i will start the base.

Chances are i use my big jointer/planer to dimension the lumebr. I will use the #7 or #8 to fine tune the boards. Being this the case the leg and top laminations may happen in conjuntion to each other?

In the midst of this i also have to get a old and extremely heavy drill press into my shop and up and working. It is a gift from a uncle whom purchsed it for his own shop than came across something nicer.

Maybe i should start a build thread of all this. Or maybe not as i also work 40-50 hrs a week to afford this habbit ;)

Should be fun i am excited! Couple years waiting for this to all come together. And i will surely share at least a few pictures..


There's nothing stopping you. Go ahead and let us know how things are going as you progress. Are you going to start with the base or with the top?

[Kees Heiden]

Yes post pictures! I would forgo the giant tennon saw if it is only for this job. 4 to 5" is plenty for most any other tennon sawing.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

$2500? That was for the 330 bft you said you bought? That was a bit pricey for ash.

[Patrick Walsh]

Yup,

$5.50 a BF. I imagine 12/4 stock is the reason why. I was going to go with all 16/4 and that would had been more like $8-9BF.

My ideal was French oak at $4500 plus shipping for everything. Wood vise,hold fast everything. Second in line was 16/4 cherry but that was $15BF and i could only find 9's. I really wanted to finish at 9' so i chose ash.




$2500? That was for the 330 bft you said you bought? That was a bit pricey for ash.

[Brian Holcombe]

I vote that this is the bench that makes the middle of the room, and you make a bench from something else to use against the wall. This is far too awesome to hide away in the corner and use for glue ups in a few years.

Your second one will be better, but maybe you don't need a second one....

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Yup,

$5.50 a BF. I imagine 12/4 stock is the reason why. I was going to go with all 16/4 and that would had been more like $8-9BF.

My ideal was French oak at $4500 plus shipping for everything. Wood vise,hold fast everything. Second in line was 16/4 cherry but that was $15BF and i could only find 9's. I really wanted to finish at 9' so i chose ash.

$2500 ÷ 330 = $7.58 Did you get parts too? Surely shipping wasn't that much difference. I'm getting 120bft of 12' long 4/4 at $3.44/bft and ocean shipping 1200 miles is only $95.

I second Brian. Put that bench in the center so you can work all angles and overhang long or wide stock.

Glad you went with ash. Oak would darken too much.

Edit: Your wood looks high quality so it's not out if range at $5.50 but I'm trying to figure how you came to $2500.

[Patrick Walsh]

It was just under $2300. And over 330 BF but under 350 I think might have been 360BF?

At the last minute I was offered the one last slab from the flitch and I took it without asking any questions.

I was sent 4/4 for the base and I payed $3BF for that.

Sorry guys this bench is going in the corner. It is right in front of a window looking out to my Americanised Japanese garden "my other pride and joy" and one of the best views in my house. Not to mention the only view outside from my shop.

The other bench will get built. It have a idea or plan already tormenting my brain for my second bench!

[Brian Holcombe]

I pay more than that for Ash. I think it's a fair price.

Japanese Gardening as well? A man after my own heart. Bonsai too?

I've been styling a Japanese Black Pine from a sapling for a few years now. I don't have room for a garden really, but I enjoy working on my shimpakus, a maple and the JBP.