How to end a run of backsplash tile (I don't like any of the options)

[Dan Friedrichs]

I'm putting in some subway tile for a kitchen backsplash. The problem is I don't have an obvious place to end the run. I know they usually recommend an interior corner, but this (wet) wall runs the whole length of the house, so I need a backsplash, but have nowhere to end it, gracefully.

Any great possibilities that I've overlooked? Excuse my fantastic photoshop jobs, here :) I'm thinking I could either just run it square until the end of the countertop, or I could tile the entire adjacent wall. I'd prefer the former...

I had thought about stair-stepping it down to the end of the countertop, but now I just think that looks funny...

[Keith Westfall]

What's suppose to be in that spot? Why not the channel made for that sort of thing?

If the space is going to be left empty, build a frame for a note/bulletin/ message board on the wall and end up against that?

I agree that neither option you showed is great.

[Wade Lippman]

Is there any reason you are tiling the wall to the left? Unless there is, consider leaving that was paint.
Perhaps you could do #2, only do the right hand side the height of the window. That would kind of grade it down.

We just did a subway tile backspash and it looks like it has always been there. Very satisfied.

[Mel Fulks]

I would stop it where you show ,but change the configuration there to two risers and two steps of tile. Makes the window look better too. I was referring to photo 2

[Dan Friedrichs]

What's suppose to be in that spot? Why not the channel made for that sort of thing?

It's just a dead space between the end of the countertop and the sliding door to the deck. Our trashcan usually sits there. What sort of channel are you talking about?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Is there any reason you are tiling the wall to the left?

Yeah, there's a stove just off the left side of the photos, so the subway tile wraps all the way around...

[George Bokros]

There are thin metal strips that you put behind the tile at the end of the run that will end it nicely if there are no bull nose tile that match the tile you are using. They should be able to help where you bought the tile. I know that the local tile supplier I use has all kinds of metal trim for that purpose. i have purchased from the local The Tile Shop and have been satisfied with merchandise, service and assistance. My only complaint was they sold me way too much grout but I was able to return it.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Here's a better (panoramic) picture of the space to get a better idea of the problem. I'm unsure how to transition the tile back to the wall.

[Myk Rian]

I would end it at the counter edge.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Roomba's are awesome on hardwood floors. ;)

[Bob Coates]

I agree that neither of your options look great. Try photshop a new cabinet above the dishwasher to see what that would look like with your option 2. I think the large expanse above the dw is the problem. Just another though and not worth the $.02.

Bob

[Dan Friedrichs]

I agree that neither of your options look great. Try photshop a new cabinet above the dishwasher to see what that would look like with your option 2.

There's a good idea that I hadn't thought of! Unfortunately, we aren't planning on staying here much longer, so this is more of a "flip" job, and I don't think another cabinet would be worth the money.

Although - perhaps something similar would work. Something to "mirror" the cabinet on the left and create a natural vertical line, there. Maybe a cork message board / some vertical artwork /etc....

[Mel Fulks]

If you are not going to be there much longer I'm surprised at the subway tile. You bought it without subway tile .....give somebody else the same chance!

[Walter Plummer]

The way I have seen it done is to miter the bull nose top course and bring it down to the counter top in line with the side of the base cabinet. The rest of the field of tile stops to it. Hope this makes sense. I don't have a photo.

[Mike Berrevoets]

I'd end at the end of the countertop to the nearest full tile. Buy 9 bullnose on the short side and call it finished. If you are planning to sell I'm not sure it will jump out at potential buyers as wrong or turn anyone off enough to not buy.

Or maybe put a floating shelf above the tile to balance it and make it look like it was intentional. Cheaper than a cabinet and easy enough to build or buy. They seem to be popular now as well. Not practical in my opinion but potential buyers won't notice that until it's too late. :)

[Sam Murdoch]

End it as in photo #2 and as George Bokros (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/member.php?44141-George-Bokros) suggests use a metal tile edge. Slips behind the tile and allows for a grout line but the finish is a solid metal (or vinyl) edge, available in many metal finishes or colors from your tile shop. Worth buying a 10' length even if you throw away 6 feet. It will be finished and acceptable.

[Frederick Skelly]

I would end it at the counter edge.

I agree with Myk. As George and others suggested, get the metal trim for the end and it should look just fine.

[Wade Lippman]

If you are not going to be there much longer I'm surprised at the subway tile. You bought it without subway tile .....give somebody else the same chance!

Our old house hadn't been updated in 30 years, so we priced it way way below other houses on the street that had been updated recently. I figured that was a big selling point; the buy could afford to update it to their taste rather than be saddled with what we liked. My realtor said I was wrong; people don't want to do anything, they want a new house and will accept whatever it is as long as they don't have to do any thing. I thought she was crazy, but it turned out she was right. It took a year to sell and I got much less than I should have (had I been right).

[Rich Engelhardt]

Relocate the outlet and build an 18" pantry.

End the tile at the pantry.

Problem solved.

A pantry will cost you less than $200 to make - even if you have to buy a simple panel raising bit for the doors.

IMH- experience (not that it's all that great), a pantry is one of the easiest pieces of cabinetry there is to build.

I'm no great shakes @ it, but, an 18" pantry that will fit right in that spot is less than a 1 day job to make.
Matching the finish is going to be the hardest part & even that's not all that critical since the dishwasher seperates the pantry from the other cabinets.

Here's a similar situation where I built the pantry into a similar section of wall. I used bead board instead of tile, but, it's the same idea.

[Jim Becker]

Personally, I like the idea of extending it to the end of the wall and down to the baseboard. It provides a very nice finished look to the room that flows better than the abrupt stop at the end of the counter.

[Prashun Patel]

I like your first picture with the tile going all the way. It always looks more complete - and less cheap to me when a homeowner does that.

However, in either case, if you want a finished edge, look into Schluter Systems. They make a bunch of styles. I highly recommend the stainless steel edging; it has been more durable than the PVC for me. If you extend the tile to the corner, you will need top and side edging. Schluter even makes corners so you don't have to cut messy miters.

As an aside, if you ever do a shower, the Schluter System for showers is amazing...

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks, everyone. I really like the idea of building a pantry, but even the modest time/cost on that is going to be too much, right now (just not worth investing much more in this house). Excellent idea, though, Rich, and I'd do that if I were planning to stay.

At Jim and Prashun's encouragement, I almost decided to do the whole wall, but after some more mental imagery, decided that doing the whole wall might make this eat-in kitchen look small if the "kitchen" portion extended too much further.

I did not know about the metal edging, but it sounds like that will work great. I just got back from picking up a stick of it, and plan to have it end at the edge of the counter. It's not ideal, but I think it will look acceptable and is the lowest effort solution. Thanks everyone for turning me on to these trim options! Will post a picture when it's done...

[Brett Luna]

I was going to recommend the Schluter RONDEC trim but since you have the top course of tiles installed, you won't be able to completely trim the field. You could trim out just the vertical edge with a short piece of RONDEC and finish the top of it off with a 90° single-leg outside corner trim piece. I used it during our master bath remodel to trim the tile around the spa tub. I had to special order it through the BORG.

But if that top course is bullnose, I would also consider wrapping that around the field to finish off that right-hand edge. It might be the cheapest option and you wouldn't (possibly) have to special order trim.

[Chris Padilla]

I did not know about the metal edging, but it sounds like that will work great. I just got back from picking up a stick of it, and plan to have it end at the edge of the counter. It's not ideal, but I think it will look acceptable and is the lowest effort solution. Thanks everyone for turning me on to these trim options! Will post a picture when it's done...

You've already picked up some metal edging but Schluter Systems has all kinds of transitions and tile terminations in metal, colored metal, and plastic.

Here is how I used it on my master bath remodel a year or so ago. This is the Quadec style. They also have a Roundover style. Lots of good stuff from SS.

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Close up of a profile edge to 'terminate' the tile edge.

334264
Lots of edges to do. Works great for tiles that don't have specialty ($$$) edge profiles.

[Tom M King]

Are you buying the tile from a dedicated tile supplier? Typically, they have a lot more choices in finishing pieces than the big box stores.

[Prashun Patel]

Impeccable work, chris. Looks like you did the linear drain. Isnt the shower system great?

[Chris Padilla]

Yes, SS is awesome stuff. A bit spendy but high quality. I used the single plane foam ramp for the shower pan along with the linear drain. Boy those linear drains are EXPENSIVE but I think they are simply gorgeous.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Amazing work, Chris - I love how those transition/cap pieces look.

[Steve Peterson]

There's a good idea that I hadn't thought of! Unfortunately, we aren't planning on staying here much longer, so this is more of a "flip" job, and I don't think another cabinet would be worth the money.

Although - perhaps something similar would work. Something to "mirror" the cabinet on the left and create a natural vertical line, there. Maybe a cork message board / some vertical artwork /etc....

A full cabinet above the dishwasher might look a bit small, especially if it leaves a gap around the window to match the other side. Maybe a display cabinet with a few open quarter round shelves. This would match the solid cabinet side on the other side of the window. It would also create an end-point for the tile without looking like something is missing.

Steve

[Chris Padilla]

Amazing work, Chris - I love how those transition/cap pieces look.

Thank you! Below is the completed shower.

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[Dan Friedrichs]

Just thought I'd show the final product - I went with a stainless edge trim piece (thank you all for opening my eyes to this option!), and hung some vertical artwork to try and blend it into the wall a bit. Turned out OK. If I ever build a house, I will certainly keep details like this in mind, because there was really no good option, the way they laid this place out.

[Sam Murdoch]

Looks GREAT and you should be satisfied with a job well done!

[Chris Padilla]

Most excellent, Dan. Everything looks good.

Perhaps a small floating shelf to hold knick-knacks or salt&pepper shakers might work there?

[Jim Becker]

Looks awesome, Dan!

[Frederick Skelly]

Nice work Dan!

[George Bokros]

Looks excellent. A pro installer would have done the same thing.