Building Your Own Oneida Realtime Filter Efficiency Gauge

[Ben Rivel]

After studying the Oneida product page (LINK (http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=FXK000000)) and researching around the net I was able to figure out and put together the parts necessary to build my own Oneida Realtime Filter Efficiency Gauge. Its a very simple design and you can buy all the parts on your own for a lot cheaper than their kit.

Heres what you need:



Dywer 2-5005 Differential Pressure Gauge (LINK (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2-5000#ordering))
Dywer A-302 Static Pressure Tip (LINK (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Miscellaneous/Accessories/StaticPressureSensors/StaticPressureTips-Accessories))
3/16" Inner Diameter Tubing (LINK (http://www.amazon.com/ATP-Vinyl-Flex-Plastic-Tubing-Length/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1455837414&sr=8-8&keywords=clear+vinyl+tube))


Thats it! You can find the gauge and tip on eBay sometimes for very cheap or you can buy them directly from Dywer. You can also purchase the hose by the foot from Dywer (LINK (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Miscellaneous/Accessories/Tubing/GageTubingAccessories), A-220). You can also use the larger dial gauge, the Dywer Magnehelic 2005 (LINK (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2000)). Its nicer if you want a larger display, to wall mount it, or want better build quality, but it does cost more. And lastly regarding the mount, the one supplied by Oneida is almost useless as there is no good way/place to install it on many of their dust collectors. So making one out of wood is just much better as you can customize it however you like to mount where ever you like on your dust collector. All you need to do is cut a hole large enough to fit the gauge and youre good to go. Drawings with dimensions for the gauges can be found on the Dywer website.

Regarding installation: simple as drilling a 3/16" hole in the plenum. Instructions are as follows:

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I know there are some people around this forum who know a lot more about this setup than I do as I found some of their posts and they were helpful in figuring this all out. I also know there are probably other and perhaps better ways of going about this. That said my intent here was just to layout the Oneida design and how to build your own. Hopefully those that know more will chime in and offer suggests on how to perhaps improve the design or other suggestions.

[Ken Andersen]

Ben, your link for the A-302 tip seems to be give a "page not found" error. I think it should be:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Miscellaneous/Accessories/StaticPressureSensors/StaticPressureTips-Accessories

[Ben Rivel]

Ben, your link for the A-302 tip seems to be give a "page not found" error. I think it should be:
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Miscellaneous/Accessories/StaticPressureSensors/StaticPressureTips-Accessories
Thank you! Fixed it!

[Jason Lester]

Thanks for the post. I got a brand new Dwyer 2005 off eBay for $40 and the tip from Dwyer. Saved about half price over the Oneida kit. I didn't realize how big the 2005 was, I thought it was the small one. I like the size though.

Now to build the bin full alarm.

[Ben Rivel]

Thanks for the post. I got a brand new Dwyer 2005 off eBay for $40 and the tip from Dwyer. Saved about half price over the Oneida kit. I didn't realize how big the 2005 was, I thought it was the small one. I like the size though.

Now to build the bin full alarm.
Awesome! Glad it worked out for you! And yea that Magnehelic is a lot bigger. I think it would be nicer and would have gone that route too had I known about it first. Post some pics when you get it all setup!

[Mike Heaney]

thanks Ben for putting this together- I will be doing this shortly.

Jason mentioned going with the 2005- is there a particular model(s) of this I should look out for. I like the idea of a bigger gauge, but I am not sure what all the suffixes on the model numbers mean. I see NIB 2005's for $25 or thereabouts on Ebay- am I missing something?

thanks

Mike

[Jebediah Eckert]

Thanks Ben, I opted out of the option from Oneida. I still wanted it but had to cut cost somewhere. I am going to try and go this route.

[Ole Anderson]

I have a dual gauge setup, one for filter loss, the other for system suction. (Pic taken just before cleaning the filter) And I keep a plot of the fan curve handy. You really don't need a fancy pitot tube as you are not measuring velocity pressure, just use a threaded x barbed brass fitting.

[Jason Lester]

Where do you have the fitting for suction installed, in the duct near the inlet?

[Ben Rivel]

thanks Ben for putting this together- I will be doing this shortly.

Jason mentioned going with the 2005- is there a particular model(s) of this I should look out for. I like the idea of a bigger gauge, but I am not sure what all the suffixes on the model numbers mean. I see NIB 2005's for $25 or thereabouts on Ebay- am I missing something?

thanks

Mike
For the Magnehelic 2005 is the 0-5" model youd want (LINK (http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Gages/Series2000)). I didnt see any of those that cheap on eBay for brand new, but different sellers pop up all the time with different stock, so its entirely possible. Ill take as a look as for $25 brand new Ill pick up a Magnehelic too!

EDIT: Just checked eBay and the ~$25 ones are used. I want new. The new ones are all around $40+.

[Ole Anderson]

Where do you have the fitting for suction installed, in the duct near the inlet?
For the filter loss gauge, near the inlet to the filter, for the overall suction gauge, near the inlet to the fan.

[Mike Heaney]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141942498763

Ben- this is the one I just ordered- did I mess up? $25.99 and free shipping. Still three more available

M

[Michael W. Clark]

You really don't need a fancy pitot tube as you are not measuring velocity pressure, just use a threaded x barbed brass fitting.

I agree totally. It should be less expensive and is definitely less prone to plugging to use a barb fitting like Ole mentioned.

Those SP tips actually have holes on the side for SP measurement and are meant for HVAC airstreams (air conditioning or make-up air). The dirty side (upstream of filter) on HVAC systems is relatively clean compared to the clean side (downstream) of your cyclone. You have to be careful which way you point the tiny ports when using these because you do not want the holes facing into the airstream.

[Ben Rivel]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141942498763

Ben- this is the one I just ordered- did I mess up? $25.99 and free shipping. Still three more available

M
Nope, looks good to me! I wasnt see that one because I was including "Magnehelic" in my search terms. Thanks for posting that, Im going to pick one up too!

[Mike Heaney]

happy to share the joy Ben!

thanks again for pointing us in the right direction with this.
Now I just need to get my cyclone ordered- it would be a shame to fit this to a 1.5hp delta canister!

M

[Jebediah Eckert]

I grabbed the last one at that price, but there are a few more for $28. It will be nice to have for sure.

[Jason Lester]

I got mine installed on my new V3000 today. It stays at 0" with the collector turned on though. I haven't used it for anything except sucking out my tablesaw's cabinet, so the filter is probably pretty clean. Is it normal for a brand new filter to read 0"? I did take the hose off and blow into it and got it up near 1" that way, so I think the gauge is working fine.

Thanks,
Jason

[Jason Lester]

I was doing some more testing and realized that the gauge has 2 sets of ports. After plugging the ones on the sides, it is working properly.

[Ben Rivel]

I was doing some more testing and realized that the gauge has 2 sets of ports. After plugging the ones on the sides, it is working properly.
Ah yes the Magnehelic does have two sets of ports. I just got mine and havent taken it out of the box yet but I did notice that from the manual. Glad you got it figured out and working. Man is that Magnehelic ever larger than the Minihelic! I didnt realize how much the size difference would be. Im going to post a side by side for reference in the OP so others know ahead of time.

[Ben Rivel]

For size comparison, here is the Minihelic II next to the Magnehelic front and back:

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Quite a big size difference.

Things to note about the two:


The Minihelic II is made of some sort of plastic that feels like the thick black sewer drain pipe, while the Magnehelic is made of a heavy metal.
The Minihelic II most commonly has the ports sticking out of the back which might make mounting it somewhere a bit tricky. There is a version of it where the ports exit on the bottom but after speaking to Dwyer about that version I found that it is special order from them only. The Magnehelic has exit ports on both the back and the side, either can be used giving more mounting options.
FWIW the Minihelic II more closely matches the size of the red strobe light mentioned in the OP.
Mounts and tube fittings are included with either gauge when bought brand new.

[Ben Rivel]

Also worth noting: Oneida announced some time ago that they would be raising prices on pretty much everything they sell sometime this year. It looks like those price increases have finally hit. Oddly enough however they actually dropped the price of their Realtime Filter Efficiency Gauge Kit. It went from $113 to $72. Much better pricing but you can still build out the same or better yourself for less.

[Jason Lester]

Got mine installed this afternoon. I decided to mount a little "control panel" on the legs of the stand for the V3000. I put the 2005 Magnehelic on the left for the filter gauge, made another hole for a 2015 Magnehelic to measure static pressure at the inlet, and left room in the center to mount the strobe light for the bin sensor. I still need to buy the other gauge and get all the parts for the dust bin sensor.

[Jebediah Eckert]

I just received my gauge from eBay (the $25 one from this thread). I still need the other two parts. My ducting should be in later this week. When that gets mostly done it's onto the gauge. I was going to order it with the SDG but Oneida talked me out of it. They said unless I have a drum sander, and pay attention to bin level, I should never need it. Seems like I would still like to know.

[Ben Rivel]

Got mine installed this afternoon. I decided to mount a little "control panel" on the legs of the stand for the V3000. I put the 2005 Magnehelic on the left for the filter gauge, made another hole for a 2015 Magnehelic to measure static pressure at the inlet, and left room in the center to mount the strobe light for the bin sensor. I still need to buy the other gauge and get all the parts for the dust bin sensor.
Nice. Thats kinda how I was thinking about doing mine except up higher as I was worried down low like that might interfere with emptying the dust bin.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

Thanks for the great write up. I was able to pick up the exact gauge for $20 shipped off ebay, brand new.

[Ben Rivel]

Got mine installed this afternoon. I decided to mount a little "control panel" on the legs of the stand for the V3000. I put the 2005 Magnehelic on the left for the filter gauge, made another hole for a 2015 Magnehelic to measure static pressure at the inlet, and left room in the center to mount the strobe light for the bin sensor. I still need to buy the other gauge and get all the parts for the dust bin sensor.
Been thinking about your post here. What will measuring static pressure at the inlet tell you? Im pretty new to this kind of stuff so Im not sure I understand why that value would be useful to us. Is it for detecting possible clogs in the ducting? Making sure the blower is pulling what it usually pulls? And where would you install the probe for the inlet? In the inlet ducting and pointing toward the machines (away from the blower)?

[Bud Millis]

Has anyone attempted a digital manometer? I all ready have one and was thinking about just using that instead.

[Richard Mellor]

Hi, I have a felder AF-22 with a wynn filter on it. Looking at how others have mounted the probe, would it still work if I put it on the top of the filter, or in the duct pipe before the impeller?
Thanks, Richard

[Bud Millis]

Hi, I have a felder AF-22 with a wynn filter on it. Looking at how others have mounted the probe, would it still work if I put it on the top of the filter, or in the duct pipe before the impeller?
Thanks, Richard

Richard, On the OAS the pressure gauge goes just above the filter to measure at the filter. Felder is a little tougher. I don't know what the inside looks like but I would put it to the right of the black knob so that it is centered on the white bag. There are some ports on the probe they would need to be facing down to help avoid them from being filled with dust. You would have to test the system to find out what your starting pressure would be. Either use a new bag or clean that bag very well. Just out of curiosity, what is the micron rating on the bag?

Thanks
bud

[Ben Rivel]

Has anyone attempted a digital manometer? I all ready have one and was thinking about just using that instead.
I had considered it for a bit with the Dwyer DM-1107, but I didnt really like the idea of having to power it or change out batteries and the cost was quite a bit more. But if you already have one and dont mind the powering issues, cool, post a pic when you get it setup.

[Richard Mellor]

Bud, thanks for the input. I just installed a .5 micron from wynn filters, I'm really happy with it especially when comparing it with the original felder felt bag.

[Randall J Cox]

Ok, as I understand it the Magnehelic model 2005 0-5 pressure gauge will measure up to 5 inches of water pressure (positive pressure). How does inches of water correlate to PSI (or is it the same)? I want to mount one on my new Wynn nano filter before I start using it to keep tabs on its loading so I know when to clean it. I have a small shop (16x18) that I am setting up 5/6" dust collection ducting now using a single stage 1.75 HP DC. If I mount to the top metal part of the Wynn cartridge filter, how do I keep the little tube that goes to the gauge from getting clogged? Randy

[Rod Sheridan]

Very nice Ben.

You can also build a manometer with a length of 1/4" clear tubing and some water in it...........Rod.

[Dan Jung]

Thanks to your help, I got my gauge up and running.
I noticed my gauge was bouncing around a lot, I fixed it by plugging the 1 extra high port, low port, and slightly plugging the second low port.
Also if you think your gauge is not working because it won't leave "0"... open a blast gate. duh. damhikt
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww227/UpInSmoke2015/20160531_161025_zpscf9uy8gx.jpg

[Ben Rivel]

Nicely done Dan! Just out of curiosity what did you use to plug the unused ports?

[Dan Jung]

Ben
The gauge comes with 2 pipe plugs (1/8" or 3/16" npt) I scavenged another plug off a broken air regulator.

[Randall J Cox]

OK, my Magnehelic 2005 gauge just arrived, bought off ebay. Gauge goes to 5 in of water. Don't have it hooked up yet. Probably will tap off top of filter, hopefully won't get plugged with sawdust. At what positive pressure should I consider cleaning filter (pleated Wynn nano)? Randy

[Jason Lester]

Oneida says at 3" of pressure. Mine with a new filter and 2 blast gates open runs at 1.25". After filling the drum once, it was up to a little over 1.5".

Jason

[Randall J Cox]

Jason, ok, good to know, thanks. Randy

[Randall J Cox]

I have a dual gauge setup, one for filter loss, the other for system suction. (Pic taken just before cleaning the filter) And I keep a plot of the fan curve handy. You really don't need a fancy pitot tube as you are not measuring velocity pressure, just use a threaded x barbed brass fitting.

I have the guage, want to mount in top of Wynn nano filter. So what exactly is a threaded x barbed brass fitting? Thanks.

Randy

[Dan Jung]

I have the guage, want to mount in top of Wynn nano filter. So what exactly is a threaded x barbed brass fitting? Thanks.

Randy

He's referring to this: 2 came with my guage.
https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-BN152-Fitting-Insert/dp/B00F68UNJE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466422517&sr=8-5&keywords=3%2F16%22barbed+hose+fitting

[Randall J Cox]

Got it all hooked up. With new filter, Magnehelic gauge just jiggles a little barely off 0 while running. It does work as I blew into it through the connection tube before connecting. As nano filter is brand new, guess its all working like it should. Thanks for all the info and help to all on this. Randy

[Jason Lester]

Got it all hooked up. With new filter, Magnehelic gauge just jiggles a little barely off 0 while running. It does work as I blew into it through the connection tube before connecting. As nano filter is brand new, guess its all working like it should. Thanks for all the info and help to all on this. Randy

You did leave one of the low pressure ports open to the air didn't you? I made that mistake and couldn't figure out why my gauge never left 0. The gauge measures the difference between the low and high pressure ports.

[Randall J Cox]

Jason, yes I did. I verified it was working properly by blowing into it before installing. Thanks. Randy

[Frank Martin]

I just installed one of these yesterday after seeing it here. Mine is on an Oneida 2.5 hp cyclone with older non-HEPA filter. I had the dreaded filter with chips and dust phenomenon recently and cleaned up the filter with compressed air. So, it is pretty clean. The gauge reads about 0.7, so not even 1. I attributed it to relatively clean filter.

[Ben Rivel]

Finally got around to installing my Magnehelic this weekend. Just a quick job solution, but it works. Whole system is brand new still and you can see the needle at about 0.5" when running with one port open.

Still havent run a support wire/cable off the plenum, so thats why the stool is under the filter, to support the weight of the filter. I also still have to get the bin sensor circuit figured out. Got the Banner sensor installed in the drum lid, but havent finished laying out the circuit to do what Im planning yet. Ill post that in the bin sensor thread when its done though.

[Larry Frank]

Looks good...please post the info about the bin level sensor as I want to put one in if yours works well.

[Ken Andersen]

Ben, did you install a pitot tube in the duct as Oneida does or did you just connect the gauge to a hose barb fitting into the duct as others here have done?
I got a new magnehelic (0-4 inch wc) today at a good price; just wondering if getting a pitot tube is worthwhile (I'm thinking not).

[Larry Frank]

I just attached my Magnahelic gauge to the duct just before the filter and it works well. I do not think there is any need for a pitot tube.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben, did you install a pitot tube in the duct as Oneida does or did you just connect the gauge to a hose barb fitting into the duct as others here have done?
I got a new magnehelic (0-4 inch wc) today at a good price; just wondering if getting a pitot tube is worthwhile (I'm thinking not).I installed mine exactly as Oneida did with a pilot tube (Dywer A-302 Static Pressure Tip) going into the plenum between the output of the impeller housing and the filter.

Heres an updated shot. Finally got a steel wire strung to support the filter hanging off the side, but still havent gotten the dust level sensor hooked up. Been too busy with other stuff to design the circuit the way I wanted to. I will add that info to the other thread I created on that when I finally get that up and running though.

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And I can still open the garage door. The picture makes it look like it's going to hit the top of the motor, but its actually about an inch and a half below it.

[Ken Andersen]

I am in process of installing my Magnihellic guage, **without** a pitot tube, as a filter efficiency gauge on my Oneida 2.5 hp Super Gorilla DC. It has the older, non-HEPA filter. Oneida's instructions for installing their efficiency gauge, which does use a pitot tube, calls for it to be installed in the plenum elbow just above the filter as shown here:
https://www.manualguru.com/oneida-air-systems/super-dust-gorilla/users-manual/page-21
The plenum elbow is 8 inch diameter round in cross section so drilling and tapping for the hose barb there is more challenging than drilling and tapping into the horizontal flat flange where the filter attaches to the plenum. Theoretically, the pressure should be the same in the two locations. Any reason not to install the hose barb in
the flange rather than the plenum?

[Andy Giddings]

Don't know what I'm doing wrong but just fitted Ben's list of parts to a Clear Vue following the instructions, and I get negative pressure if I hook the tube up to the High side of the Magnahelic. If I switch it to the low side I get 1.5 in of WG - checked the ports several times to make sure I was hooking up to the right one

[Ben Rivel]

Don't know what I'm doing wrong but just fitted Ben's list of parts to a Clear Vue following the instructions, and I get negative pressure if I hook the tube up to the High side of the Magnahelic. If I switch it to the low side I get 1.5 in of WG - checked the ports several times to make sure I was hooking up to the right one
1.5in doesn't sound too far off. How long have you had and been using the ClearVue?

[Andy Giddings]

Ben, about 2 months - I'm not worried about the pressure reading - as you say its in the right ballpark.

I'm concerned that the single tube is supposed to go to the high side of the gauge and mine only works if its on the low side? If I hook it up as per the instructions in your original post I get a negative reading. The spare ports on the gauge are blocked but I left one low and one high open to the air

[Ben Rivel]

Ben, about 2 months - I'm not worried about the pressure reading - as you say its in the right ballpark.

I'm concerned that the single tube is supposed to go to the high side of the gauge and mine only works if its on the low side? If I hook it up as per the instructions in your original post I get a negative reading. The spare ports on the gauge are blocked but I left one low and one high open to the air
Hmmm... That is weird. You have the other pair of ports not being used plugged right?

[Andy Giddings]

Hmmm... That is weird. You have the other pair of ports not being used plugged right?
Yes. Just one open High and Low. Others are plugged.

I just switched out the A-302 for a standard barbed fitting, plugged the tube into the high port and I get a positive reading of 0.5 in WG. There must be something strange going on with the A-302 - either my placement or a defect. Anyway up and running now as I'll stick to the barbed fitting - thanks for the How to guide, Ben

[Ben Rivel]

Yes. Just one open High and Low. Others are plugged.

I just switched out the A-302 for a standard barbed fitting, plugged the tube into the high port and I get a positive reading of 0.5 in WG. There must be something strange going on with the A-302 - either my placement or a defect. Anyway up and running now as I'll stick to the barbed fitting - thanks for the How to guide, Ben
Well, glad you got it working and that the guide helped. And if you havent seen it already, check out the thread I did on making the Oneida Bin Sensor: LINK (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242096-Building-Your-Own-And-Improving-Upon-The-Oneida-Dust-Bin-Level-Sensor)

[Andy Giddings]

Well, glad you got it working and that the guide helped. And if you havent seen it already, check out the thread I did on making the Oneida Bin Sensor: LINK (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242096-Building-Your-Own-And-Improving-Upon-The-Oneida-Dust-Bin-Level-Sensor)
Already made the sensor, Ben - thanks for checking

[Curt Harms]

Very nice Ben.

You can also build a manometer with a length of 1/4" clear tubing and some water in it...........Rod.

Exactly. Couple drops of food coloring make it easier to see. Form a U from tubing and connect one end to the filter's air flow. If there's no restriction the liquid in both legs of the U should be close to the same level. As the filter starts to clog there is more back pressure so the liquid in one leg of the U will be higher than the other. The question then becomes at what height differential should you clean the filter?

[Ben Rivel]

Exactly. Couple drops of food coloring make it easier to see. Form a U from tubing and connect one end to the filter's air flow. If there's no restriction the liquid in both legs of the U should be close to the same level. As the filter starts to clog there is more back pressure so the liquid in one leg of the U will be higher than the other. The question then becomes at what height differential should you clean the filter?
Good point. I just think the Gauge looks very cool. And since they are pretty cheap I just couldnt see why not go that route.

[Chris Fairbanks]

Ok so I finally got around to getting my Clearvue Max mostly setup. I have about half the duct work to finish up and to finish the door and return vent for the soundproofing closet. I fired it up tonight to make sure my control panel and remote was working fine. I have about 25' of 8" PVC hooked up to it right now with few 45s to make it up to the ceiling. I also have a 0-5" Magnahelic gauge hooked to a Dwyer a-302 static pressure tip installed after the fan but before the wynn filters. When I started it up I noticed the gauge went slightly negative so I figured I hooked up the wrong port on the gauge. I then disconnected the tube from the tip and blew into the hose lightly and it went positive. So I have it hooked up to the correct/high port on the gauge. I checked and have the side high and low ports blocked left the low port disconnected on the back of the gauge. As I said this is a brand new install with never before used filters. Is it possible that the air is blowing by so fast it is creating a slight vacuum on the pressure tip?
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[Andy Giddings]

Ok so I finally got around to getting my Clearvue Max mostly setup. I have about half the duct work to finish up and to finish the door and return vent for the soundproofing closet. I fired it up tonight to make sure my control panel and remote was working fine. I have about 25' of 8" PVC hooked up to it right now with few 45s to make it up to the ceiling. I also have a 0-5" Magnahelic gauge hooked to a Dwyer a-302 static pressure tip installed after the fan but before the wynn filters. When I started it up I noticed the gauge went slightly negative so I figured I hooked up the wrong port on the gauge. I then disconnected the tube from the tip and blew into the hose lightly and it went positive. So I have it hooked up to the correct/high port on the gauge. I checked and have the side high and low ports blocked left the low port disconnected on the back of the gauge. As I said this is a brand new install with never before used filters. Is it possible that the air is blowing by so fast it is creating a slight vacuum on the pressure tip?
362454

Chris, I had the same issue on my CV 1800. I think it's the alignment of the A-302 that is the issue. As soon as I replaced mine with a cheap and cheerful barbed fitting the reading was positive. I should have listened to some of the other posters and gone for a barbed fitting originally :-)

[Chris Fairbanks]

Andy, somehow I missed your post about the same problem a few posts up :( I just called Dwyer tech support and they said the pointed side of the tip needs to be facing into the airflow. I explained the use case and he said it should work fine. Just to confirm you have the low side hooked up to nothing correct? Just the high side to the fitting?
Thanks!

[Andy Giddings]

Andy, somehow I missed your post about the same problem a few posts up :( I just called Dwyer tech support and they said the pointed side of the tip needs to be facing into the airflow. I explained the use case and he said it should work fine. Just to confirm you have the low side hooked up to nothing correct? Just the high side to the fitting?
Thanks!
Chris, exactly the same problem as you had and mine was pointed into the airflow as required by Dwyer. High side hooked up, low side open to atmosphere, spare ports blocked. I even tried turning the probe a few degrees but no change. Replaced the probe with a barbed fitting and worked immediately.

[Chris Fairbanks]

I tried going around 360 degrees slowly while the cyclone was running and could never get it to go positive. I suspect the tip is not rated for that sort of speed air :(. I just ordered 10 barbs off of amazon for like $7. I'll swap it over this weekend. That's for the help!

[Andy Giddings]

I tried going around 360 degrees slowly while the cyclone was running and could never get it to go positive. I suspect the tip is not rated for that sort of speed air :(. I just ordered 10 barbs off of amazon for like $7. I'll swap it over this weekend. That's for the help!
No problem, you'll probably find that the pressure measurement is quite small (mine's about 0.1 - 0.2) with new filters

[Larry Frank]

I did testing on my dust collector and the filter pressure varies with the cfm.

At high flows of 1600 cfm and low static pressure, the dust collector filter pressure is around 2.5 inches.

At low flows of 400 cfm and high static pressure, the dust collector filter pressure is about 0.5 inches.

The filter pressure will depend on your particular DC setup and how much cfm you are pulling. A good thing to do is measure the filter pressure with a clean filter and a particular gate open or some standard setup. Then you can check the pressure later on with the same setup.

[Chris Fairbanks]

Chris, exactly the same problem as you had and mine was pointed into the airflow as required by Dwyer. High side hooked up, low side open to atmosphere, spare ports blocked. I even tried turning the probe a few degrees but no change. Replaced the probe with a barbed fitting and worked immediately.

Andy I got the barbed fittings today and installed it in the same hole where I had the tip and I am still getting a negative reading. I doubled checked if I slightly blow on the tube it goes positivite and I even checked with some smoke it is sucking air in. :(. Not sure what my problem is. Where exactly did you mount the fitting? The only difference with out systems is mine is a max which I think it means the impeller is slightly larger which should not make any difference. Thanks

[Andy Giddings]

Chris, mounted mine in one of the MDF side panels on the 90 degree filter transition, around about the middle. I think our impellers are also the same size as I bought the package with the larger diameter.
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[todd werner]

I have a 5hp oneida but ditched their filter for a cabinet I built with 570 square inches of Torit filters.

I didn't put a static end on the end of the hose that goes into the cabinet, I just drilled and calked the clear tubing into the corner of the cabinet. With four 4" blast gates open off the 7" main duct line, I get just under .4" of pressure in the cabinet, and plenty of suction at all the gates.

Should I not trust the .4" because I don't have an end on the tubing? I put the end in a top corner away from the air flow. It's where I expect there's the least turbulence, but is the number too low to trust? It goes to zero when it's off, but I'd never heard of a Pitot tube before happening onto this thread.

[Bryan Cleveland]

I know this thread is old but just installed my magnahelic 2005 gauge on my cv1800 and only reads when connected to the LOW side with HIGH side left open on back. Both side ports are plugged. Can’t get my head around why it only reads on the LOW side just before entering the filter stack. Especially since everyone on here except one guy is using the HIGH side.
My gauge reads 1.25-1.5 with 2 blast gates open and 2.5-3 with all three open. I’m baffled.

[Larry Frank]

Yes, the filter pressure increases with increased cfm. I found this when doing performance measurements on my Oneida 5 hp system.

466066

[Bryan Cleveland]

Well that clears it up. Makes more sense now. Thanks very much.