Tablesaw Use

[Don Michaud]

My very first post after reading the forum for many months.

When ripping on the table saw is it best to keep the thin section towards the fence side or the thick section, or is it simply preference.

[Jerry Miner]

In general, the "keeper" piece is between the blade and fence---and is cut to a specific size that is equal to the space between blade and fence. The "waste" piece falls off away from the blade.

Exceptions exist, though. And the "keeper" piece needs to be pushed completely past the blade. Use a push stick or "shoe" if the piece is narrow.

[lowell holmes]

The keeper piece in my shop stays between the blade and the fence and a push stick is always used. If the keeper piece is thin and not safe to push between
the blade and the fence, I will let it fall outside of the blade. In such a case, I use extreme caution to prevent kick back and I will let the saw blade come to a stop
before retrieving the cut off.

[Sam Murdoch]

What Jerry says ^ (and what Lowell says too)and then another consideration is what will give you the most control of your work piece. Running rips off a wider board with the objective of obtaining multiple repeatable thickness narrow pieces will generally require you to have the thinner piece between the fence and the blade. Perfectly OK following general TS safety procedures. BUT - if I were to need one 1/2" rip off a wider board (and that 1/2" piece is my keeper) I would not hesitate to let the 1/2" piece be the fall off.

Good 1st question. Welcome to the sharing side of the Creek. :)

[Stan Calow]

Consider that often you will be wanting to cut multiple pieces to the exact same width, so it makes sense not to move the fence after each cut.

[Mike Cutler]

Don

Welcome to SawmillCreek, pleased to meet you.
As others have stated, the keeper piece is between the blade and fence. There will be exceptions of course, but generally there will be a "carrier" board" somewhere in the equation.
Once again. Welcome

[Yonak Hawkins]

Generally speaking, what the others have said. However, there are always exceptions to rules (advisedly usable for practiced woodworkers), such as when a push stick (or Gripper) doesn't afford enough control required for the cut. Safety and attention are always top priority, and other devices, such as zero clearance inserts, feather boards and other hold-downs are suggested when feasible.

What I'm saying is, if you're confident of your capabilities and have enough practice to be able to predict common and possible outcomes, don't be afraid to be creative to apply whatever methods you think will work best. Trying new methods is how inventive practices come about. Safety first.

[Don Michaud]

Gentlemen,
Thank you for sharing some of your knowledge and especially the warm welcome. Much appreciated. Keeper piece!! That would have best described what I was getting after. I love learning new things, and thank you for being patient with my nomenclature. I took woodworking all through high school, however, that was 142 years ago..lol Your response makes perfectly good sense. I want the keeper piece between the fence so it runs snug through both sides of the blade.

[Mike Ontko]

Welcome to the Creek, Don!

I hate to take this thread in a different direction, being that it's your first posting and all, but jigs like this Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig from Rockler (http://www.rockler.com/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig) are intended for use when there isn't sufficient space between the blade and the fence to push the piece through safely. I've got one and have used it for cutting solid edge banding and miter slot guides. Another particular reason I use it is that my fence can't get much closer to the blade than 1 inch because the bracket assembly for the splitter and blade guard gets in the way. Of course, I could just remove the splitter and guard...:eek:

[Charles P. Wright]

If I've got sufficient room to move the fence close enough to the blade, I'll do that. If you need repeatability for really thin strips, you can cut a point on the end of a board, and then lock it down to the table (either with a clamp) or using a knob and nut for the miter slot. It is the exact same idea as the thin rip jig you can get a Rockler; but can be made with just scraps.

[Robert Engel]

Dont' forget to make a few push sticks of varying thicknesses.

[Robert Chapman]

I've used the Rockler Thin Rip jig for years and it works really well and safely - you can leave your splitter and blade guard on the saw.

[Cody Colston]

Generally, the keeper piece is between the fence and the blade, as noted above. If that piece is thinner than 3/4", set the blade height about 1/8" higher than the stock thickness and use a push shoe, held against the fence, and push the stock fully past the blade with the heel on the shoe. The blade will cut a 1/8" groove in the bottom of the shoe and if you need more than one piece at that thickness, the blade will continue to run in that groove. Push shoes should be considered sacrificial. Make several so that you will always have one when needed. If the space between the blade and the fence is narrower than the open hand-width from the end of you thumb to your pinkie, use a push stick or shoe.

If the keeper piece is on the outside of the blade, there will often be a small "cleat" left at the end of the cut where it did not get pushed completely past the leading edge of the blade before falling off. That's the reason for having the keeper piece next to the fence.

Edit In: I'd suggest getting a copy of Kelly Mehler's "The Table Saw Book" or Jim Tolpin's "Table Saw Magic." Both will not only describe how to make rip and crosscuts safely but will also provide info on how to get more from your table saw via the use of shop-made jigs. Woodworking forums are ok but I wouldn't depend on them soley for safety advice or technique. Different folks, different methods.