Advise cleaning my new-to-me dovetail saw

[Gene Davis]

This LN saw is a solid little citizen, and I am pleased with the heft. Went out in a foot of overnight snow to meet the seller and now it's in its new home.

It is a used tool, sharp teeth, no problem there, but I would like to get the stains off the blade and maybe treat the brass backbone a little to reduce the look of the nicks and scratches.

What for the blade, and how about the brass?

Here are some pics.

[Jim Koepke]

I always like to start with the least aggressive method and work up on something that isn't bathed in rust.

A soft cloth and some mineral oil along the blade might remove the gunk stuck to the plate.

Removing scratches on brass is usually achieved by covering the scratches with smaller scratches in a different direction. The problem with this is it will remove any patina that has built up over time.

Maybe others have better ideas.

jtk

[Robert Hazelwood]

Synthetic steel wool works pretty well for getting minor rust and tarnish off. I use the grey and white 3M pads. Evaporust is another means of dealing with rust, but from the looks of it I think the 3M pads will be sufficient.

Brasso metal polish will brighten up the spine.

You may have some pitting underneath some of those rust spots; you can either live with it, or sand down the plate until it's gone. Same for the deeper scratches on the spine. I would probably live with whatever it looks like after the 3M pads and brasso, which I suspect will be pretty nice, if not brand new.

[Jim Koepke]

You may also want to invest in a can of paste wax.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I would email Lie Nielsen and ask them what to do to remove the spots. If you sent it to them, they might do it for you. They will re-sharpen a saw for a very nominal charge.

[Dave Parkis]

About 2 months ago I was in the exact same situation with a LN Independence saw I got at an estate sale. I happened to show it to Thomas Lie - Nielsen and he told me to send it in. I did and they removed all the rust and sharpened it. There is still a tiny bit of pitting, but you have to look for it.

[Nick Stokes]

I'll be the 3rd person that suggests sending it in.

You can handle it yourself, but might as well get it sharpened at the same time.

[Matthew Springer]

Was that the one that was on boulder craigslist recently? I'm glad it found a good home.

I'm up between niwot and longmont, btw.

[Phil Mueller]

I agree with go as least abrasive as possible first. Frankly, I don't mind a little character in tools.

For polishing metal, I use a product called Never Dull. It's cotton wadding soaked with a cleaning/polishing agent. Not sure what the chemical is, but works well and has had no negative effect after years of use. However, I do believe it will effect plated metal finishes...solid metal is unaffected.

[george wilson]

You aren't going to entirely get rid of the pits in the steel blade. I wonder if LN could fit a new blade to your saw?

[Gene Davis]

OK, I got out the Scotch pad and some mineral spirits. Did a rub a dub which cleaned things up a little, but I need something more aggressive. So Walmart should have some Never Dull, as they show it on their website.

And if they don't, McGuckin Hardware over in Boulder (yes, this saw was on the Boulder-MetroDenver Craigslist) should have it. They have everything.

But before I do that, I'll wait to see what Lie Nielsen has to say about it. I emailed them and asked about a reconditioning and sharpening.

It is sharp, but maybe could use a touch-up. Another saw came by UPS yesterday, same day I got the LN, and it is a new Gyokusho #372. Using a piece of dense quartersawn white oak, I did a test cut with each, and the 372 cut faster than the LN.

[Brian Holcombe]

Don't fuss over it, sharpen it if it's dull and saw with it. LN tools are better with some character.

[Mike Henderson]

If you want to get the rust out, get some Evaporust (you can find it at Harbor Freight and many other places), put some on a rag, then put the rag over the rusty part and let it sit overnight. That will remove all the rust but you may still have pitting. Clean the saw after the Evaporust and put some wax on the area what used to be rusty.

If you can put the saw and the rag into a plastic bag, it will keep the Evaporust from drying out overnight.

Mike

[Mark Fisher]

You should see the used saws I have.....when they are restored, they don't look that nice. If it were mine, I'd just scotchbrite (green is what I like) the blade or use 220 grit paper on a block to get the bulk of the rust off.....then follow by a coat or two of paste wax. Saws are for sawin'.

[Peter Evans]

A Klingspor sanding block - Fine - will get rid of the minimal rust, use a lubricant like WD40.

If you want shiny, follow that with Autosol rubbed on with scrunched aluminium foil, wipe off the residue, and finish with an alcohol wipe.

Extra shiny - rub with scrunched aluminium, wipe off and wax, preferably with a microcrystaline wax designed for metal.

You can do the same process with the brass.

Cheers
Peter