Converting an old door to a worktable

[Brian Vega]

Hi,
I have an old solid core door that I would like to turn into a work table. You can assume it is solid as it is heavy enough to need 2 people to lift it comfortably and safely.

My question is this....What should my legs/base look like? Pictures would be great.

Thanks for the help... BV

[Charles Wiggins]

That would depend a bit on your purpose.
It could be as simple as a couple of sawhorses if you want to do something temporary.
For something more permanent you generally need four legs, some kind of support under the table top to prevent sagging over the span, and some kind of bracing to keep the legs from wobbling and racking under lateral stress. That general formula can take a number of forms depending on your purpose.

http://www.hainesengineering.com/rhaines/aircraft/photos/slingshot_000216_work_table.jpg https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/f2/be/43/f2be439913aacdba27f712ba1906c7ca.jpg

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/Bench.jpg http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/118485-438x.jpg

http://www.makingwillowbend.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/IMG_4206.jpg

http://www.makingwillowbend.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/IMG_4207.jpg

[Brian Vega]

CW--- Thanks for the pics. Definitely want to go permanent, it is on saw horses now and I am tired of moving it around. I wanted more knowledge opinions then mine on proper support to prevent all the things you mentioned from happening. I think I will leave the area under open for now and work on storage options later. Thanks for your time.

If anyone else has more ideas please share

[Britt Lifsey]

I recently built a workbench from a solid core door. I cut it down to around 27" X 66" and used the cut-offs to double layer the underside giving me a 3.75" thickness. I then added some oak 1X around perimeter. I made a base leg set from some salvaged oak & old pine and built in plywood cabinets.

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[Stan Calow]

I have an old table like this. I used doubled up 2x4s for the legs with 2x4s as an apron. Check to see if the latch side of the door has a bevel to it (lets the door close more closely) or it will drive you crazy by not being square.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Mine is on a 2 X 4 frame, with plywood aprons to connect end frames. About once a year, I turn door over to offset sag that occurs at the edges which aren't supported. I use mine as a work surface, meaning I'm not afraid to drill into it, or fasten a jig / fixture to it with screws. It has many battle scars, especially where I cut out sanding disks for my 12" disk sander using drywall circle cutter. It also serves as out feed table for table saw.

[Dennis McCullen]

The best advice I’ve read is to design it for how youwork. (Hand tools, power tools)?? I was aiming for hybrid woodworking and builtthis just the right height to serve as an outfeed surface for my table saw andserve as an assembly table when I build a "traditional" bench. It isthe only workbench for now and work can be put into the light-duty vise or canbe clamped to the top. It does not suffice for traditional hand toolwoodworking.

I built torsion boxes for the two ends starting with 2x6 SYP ripped in half andmade the bottom member of the frame stick out (outrigger) to give easyaccess to total-lock swivel casters I added 1/2" plywood to bothsides with glue and screws and connected the two ends with a pair of 2x4s onboth the front and the rear and sheathed those in plywood also (yes, it'sheavy). The 2x4s are not in the same places front and rear because I wanted ashelf all along the rear and drawers in the front. I ended up with awork surface 36" X 72" that is supported by the torsion box ends andaprons 48" apart. I've used it for three years so far and there's no sag.
I banded the doorwith SYP just a little proud and cut a hardboard sacrificial top to lay atopthe door. I had problems with the hardboard curling with changes in humidity,so I adhered it to the varnished door with silicone. A bead around the edge anddots at 12" centers keeps it flat. About a year ago I added the two bottomdrawers for more storage.
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[Rick Potter]

If you want to try something quick, find some base cabinets removed from a kitchen, and put the door on top. Places like Habitat ReStores sell used cabinets really cheap.

My bench looked a lot like Britt's, except I later built a slide in drawer unit for it. Later, after 10 more years or so, I removed the door and built a top with two layers of MDF, and a replaceable sacrificial quarter inch Masonite top. The bench is at least 30 years old, and I beat on it every day. Just today I cut up some strips of sandpaper for my drum sander on it, which cut up the sacrificial top for the hundredth time. Gotta replace it someday.

Hint: Give yourself at least a couple inches of overhang on the top, for using clamps. More is better on the ends.

[Brian Vega]

Thank you to all for the suggestions and advice. Right now the plan is to make it the same height as the table saw so it can double as an outfeed support and general work table.

Thanks again,
BV

[Robert Engel]

+1 on the second 2 pics Charles posted.

Sagging is the enemy you overcome it with standard apron/leg construction like any other table.
You not only have the weight of the door, but you may have something fairly heavy on top.

Therefore, I would use 2x6's for the aprons and 4x4's for the legs.
IMO locking casters are a must. Remember to account for table height when adding them.

[John Sanford]

It's been stated before, but deserves to be restated. Watch out for sag, unless it's a really old solid core door. If it is really old, then it's likely to be an actual solid WOOD door. Most modern solid core doors are essentially veneer sheathed particle board. Minimize unsupported span / overhang.

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

It's been stated before, but deserves to be restated. Watch out for sag, unless it's a really old solid core door. If it is really old, then it's likely to be an actual solid WOOD door. Most modern solid core doors are essentially veneer sheathed particle board. Minimize unsupported span / overhang.

+1--I had a solid core commercial office door on two saw horses in the garage. Over 4 years, it developed a 2-3 inch dip in the middle.