Another slide down the slope

[Mike Wenzloff]

Well, folks, looks like yet another push down the slope will hit the streets next month. Good thing I'm strong...good thing I'm strong...

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/rp.jpg

Mike

[Bob Noles]

Okay Mike.... I can recognize a miter saw when I see one :p but what the heck is that thing? Do I need one? :D :D

[Doug Evans]

Funny... I was out doing an Antique Mall run and I picked up a mint Stanley Router with all the bits for about $Cdn 70 (er given the way the buck has been going lately, that's about er... $US 70).

Cheers,

Doug

[Dan Racette]

Dat der looks ta me like one of dem der routers, cept the blade don't spin.

AKA, it looks like the router plane that I will soon be adding to my collection!

I wonder about early pre-orders!!!

[Lee DeRaud]

Didn't know they made 'em with motors that small...
must be one of them new-fangled "laminate trimmers" I keep hearing about. :D

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Bob,

What they are useful for is deepening the depth of a dado, or even creating one via handtool methods.

Here's how I do it. Mark out the length of say a stopped dado. Choose an appropriate size of forstner bit and drill to depth. The I use a stair saw to cut the sides of the dado. In softer woods (Maple on down) I then quickly waste between the saw cuts with a chisel and mallet. Then I use the router plane to finish getting to the depth and smoothing out the dado.

Especially if you've run a few dados using a table saw and need to tweak them deeper, it saves a bit of trial and error getting them lined back up for a table saw.

And then there's always a Stanley #271 for smaller work...

Mike

[Steve Clardy]

Must have a detachable cord. I don't see it on it.

[Dan Moening]

Especially if you've run a few dados using a table saw and need to tweak them deeper, it saves a bit of trial and error getting them lined back up for a table saw.

And then there's always a Stanley #271 for smaller work...

That's the truth!

I managed to win 2 Stanley 71s on Ebay last week. Wonder if I could sell them both and get on the LV waiting list. :D

That's a beauty for sure.

[Don Baer]

Nah... It battery powered. Got a built in 18 V rechargable Battery.

[Bob Noles]

Hi Bob,

What they are useful for is deepening the depth of a dado, or even creating one via handtool methods.

Here's how I do it. Mark out the length of say a stopped dado. Choose an appropriate size of forstner bit and drill to depth. The I use a stair saw to cut the sides of the dado. In softer woods (Maple on down) I then quickly waste between the saw cuts with a chisel and mallet. Then I use the router plane to finish getting to the depth and smoothing out the dado.

Especially if you've run a few dados using a table saw and need to tweak them deeper, it saves a bit of trial and error getting them lined back up for a table saw.

And then there's always a Stanley #271 for smaller work...

Mike

Mike,

Thanks for the explaination. Looks and sounds like an interesting tool for sure when the application calls for it. I think I'll put that one down the list a way and keep the miter saw nearer the top for now :cool: . I've got a nice power miter, but sure have the hots for the one in the picture you posted on my thread. :p :p

Good looking tool above and thanks for sharing.

[Alan Turner]

You can also use it for delicate work. I made the stopped dados for the dividers in the fitted top drawer of the kneehole desk I posted here with a Stanley 71. They were 3/16" wide, and 1/4" deep. I scored the cross grain with a marking knife, used the No. 71 freehand to plow, and then rescored, etc. Very tidy, and quiet! With a corded router, there is always a chance of a catch, or tearout, but with the handtools, if you are careful, it is safe. I did not want to remake the drawer, which has dovetailed, vertical grain, sides. It was a PITA, and the plank I used was special.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Yes, and I use my #271 for cutting the shallow channel in knife handle blanks. I got my youngest hooked on that. He was taking a workmate with him to a hotel night job and working on knife blanks behind the counter.

He's made dozens of cocobolo and rosewood knife handles. Buys cheap pocket knives at garage sales by the score and cleans them up, rehandles and sharpens them and then resells them.

Back to the full-sized RP, I also use my MF version on dadoed stair skirts, deepening various types of lap joints (probably a #1 usage lately) and even cutting grooves in a raised panel for an applied cockbead.

Ah, maybe I need to have two full-sized ones...

Mike

[James Mittlefehldt]

I bought one of the made in England Stanley router planes a few years back, when I first started into this stuff, and while I hear alot about how crappy they are frankly I have few complaints about it. I don't have a plough plane, and often end up using it for that purpose.

When I bought it from Lee Valley, the elderly gentleman behind the counter commented, you shouldn't have to watch your fingers too much with that router, I have used one for years.

Now of course Rob comes out with his own version, I wonder if he has a trade in plan.

[Steve Wargo]

While I don't own any Lee Valley Tools and this one looks to be built nicely... I read a post from Rob Lee himself on another forum that said, $125 + and $17 for the fence. Come on guys. This one is just a little hard to swallow for me, especially when 71's are everywhere in the rust world for less than $10.

[Alan Turner]

Steve,
Your are correct; that is expensive. But I suspect that pricing was with the extra battery. (:

[Dan Racette]

I think the pricing probably reflects the complexity of the number of pieces involved to manufacture. Honestly, I am really pleased that companies like LV and LN are still decideding to expand their lines and make the neander tools. I appreciate the modern machining accuracy. I hope it get's more people involved in neandering!!

Not that I am a shill for any company, but I like the attempt to bring back what has worked in the past.

(Gee maybe they should send me some of their prototypes to 'test') ;-) ;-)

[Steve Beadle]

Lee Valley customer service told me that this new router plane will appear in next month's catalog. They didn't say what the price was going to be. Looks like a very nice tool, though!

[Roy Wall]

While I don't own any Lee Valley Tools and this one looks to be built nicely... I read a post from Rob Lee himself on another forum that said, $125 + and $17 for the fence. Come on guys. This one is just a little hard to swallow for me, especially when 71's are everywhere in the rust world for less than $10.

Ouch!!! I was hoping it'd be around $55-65....including the fence.....

[Doug Shepard]

Ouch!!! I was hoping it'd be around $55-65....including the fence.....
I feel your pain. $125 does seem higher than I would have expected, especially given LV's tendency to sell better than average quality tools for what I'd consider very reasonable prices. That's more than their scrub plane I ordered the other day and a little more than 1/2 the cost of their new jointer. Seems a bit out of proportion to their other plane prices given the size and amount of metal involved.

[Keith Christopher]

Oh nice !!!! I gotta get me one of those. Keep slipping it's a fun ride !