Simple joint for front of blanket chest

[Bob Denges]

Hi all! Finally getting around to making a blanket chest/toy box for the wife. I've planed down some curly maple boards I purchased at Woodcraft to 3/4". I plan to use raised panels on the sides and two drawers on the front (actually the bottom two will be functional and I'll glue on two false drawers above them). The look will be a four drawer cabinet but the lid will open for top acess. I have limited experience with dovetailing and I've thought of routing lock miter joints for the front vertical joints. Unfortunately I've messed around with these router bits and can't seem to get them right. My other thought using a rabett /miter bit set which may not be so fussy. First, what experience do you have with this bit set? Second, do you think the joint would be strong enough considering the additional glue surface? Finally, any other suggestions. BD

[Jamie Buxton]

So the casework is basically frame-and-panel? That's what I'm getting when you say "four drawers". If the casework is frame and panel, the pieces of wood at the corners are going to have the grain direction running vertical. If so, I'd just butt-glue them. No joinery is needed. If you want, you can put biscuits or splines in, to help align things at glue-up, but they're not needed for strength.

[lowell holmes]

I would have a sketch if I were doing the chest. If you need help with a sketch, pm me.

[Bob Denges]

Thanks Lowell. Wintering in Florida now and starting to visualize this project. I have some time to lay it out (which I always do) but that front corner is my only sticking point. Since I don't want to dovetail I will probably miter them but am concerned about the strength of the miter. I guess I could always cut blocking and glue that behind the miter joint. I don't have Sketchup yet. BD

[Randy Henry]

I've made over 30 of these chests, with raised panels on the front and sides. I have always mitered the corners and put 3 biscuits in them. If your machines are tuned correctly and there are no gaps, the miter will be the most attractive joint.

[Garth Almgren]

Thanks Lowell. Wintering in Florida now and starting to visualize this project. I have some time to lay it out (which I always do) but that front corner is my only sticking point. Since I don't want to dovetail I will probably miter them but am concerned about the strength of the miter. I guess I could always cut blocking and glue that behind the miter joint. I don't have Sketchup yet. BD
Perhaps you could add some splines for both visual contrast and added strength?

[lowell holmes]

Here is an alternative from sketchup files.
333827

[Bob Denges]

Thanks Randy. That sounds like it will add the strength while keeping the look. Fortunately, I already have a biscuit jointer. BD

[Bob Denges]

Thanks Garth. Walnut or cherry splines could add a nice look. If the box is say 21" high, how many splines would look right? BD

[lowell holmes]

Thanks Garth. Walnut or cherry splines could add a nice look. If the box is say 21" high, how many splines would look right? BD
I'm having difficulty visualizing what you gentlemen are talking about. The splines I am familiar with are hidden inside the boards where they join.
Obviously, you have something else in mind.

Well, it hit me after I posted. You are talking about horizontal splines. :) Duh....

[Stan Calow]

for frame and panel construction of chests, I've used 6/4 or 8/4 legs as the stiles, and set the rails into them with M/T joints. I don't much care for the look of long dovetailed joints.

[Bob Denges]

Stan, I hadn't thought about that. That's another option to a long miter that would look nice. Thanks to all who have responded. A BIG help. BD

[Garth Almgren]

Thanks Garth. Walnut or cherry splines could add a nice look. If the box is say 21" high, how many splines would look right? BD
That's a pretty subjective question, it depends on what you think looks good. :) You might try sketching it to scale or trying different patterns out on a couple pieces of scrap and see what looks good to you.