Working on a small box

[steven c newman]

1/2" thick Curly Maple...
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Hey, I said it was small. More to keep track of all the pens, and pencils that seem to congregate on my desk.
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Some of the toys used..
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Some of the joints didn't look too hateful..
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So, I still need to make a groove to hold a bottom in, and maybe add a lid.
Fastened a saw vise, as there is a saw to work on as well.
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Disston No.7....7ppi. Whenever I can find where my "get-up & go" got up and went to..:rolleyes: I can sharpen the old saw, and get back to making a small pencil box. Need a nap, right now.

[Jim Koepke]

More to keep track of all the pens, and pencils that seem to congregate on my desk.

I must have a half dozen coffee cups, cans and even a piece of tree limb drilled out to hold pencils, pens, short rules, dental mirrors, a small telescope/microscope, dividers and various other objects.

I would need a pretty large box with a lot of drawers to keep it all in one place.

jtk

[Chris Hachet]

I must have a half dozen coffee cups, cans and even a piece of tree limb drilled out to hold pencils, pens, short rules, dental mirrors, a small telescope/microscope, dividers and various other objects.

I would need a pretty large box with a lot of drawers to keep it all in one place.

jtk

Pencils and marking devices in a shop are sort of like an oil finish on a piece of furniture. First you saturate the area....

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Pencils and marking devices in a shop are sort of like an oil finish on a piece of furniture. First you saturate the area....


Need one of those emoji things that represents "I laughed so hard I almost soiled myself".... No, now that I think about it, perhaps we do not need that emoji.

Steve, I really liked how you clamped the saw. Simple, functional, and easy to store.

[steven c newman]

Well, 2 degree of rake, not much fleam. Saw is now sharpened up. I even found the Disston & Sons etch, and it is a No.7

Need to get the photos off the camera.....lighted Magnifier wasn't that much help, other than the light right on the teeth. maybe I can get back to that little box..

[steven c newman]

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The set-up.
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Test cut in oak.
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ready to go back into the till
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Somewhere in there is an etch, doesn't show up to well on the camera, but I can read almost the entire etch. Saw is 26" long, and is 7 ppi. Might be a keeper?

[steven c newman]

Next saw to be worked on is an 8 ppi D-8. The two Craftsman 8ppi saws seemed to be ok, sharpness-wise. One is even a deadringer for a Disston D-23.

What size files for a 8ppi saw? And where to find a few? The one I used on the No. 7 was a 6" xx slim. Do I try to find a skinnier size of file?

[steven c newman]

Still looking for a few files to sharpen these higher toothed saws. I now have a lighted magnifier thingy. LED lighted, very bright...unlike it's owner....LOL. I have three D-8s in need of some file work, and a D-7 or two. Then a couple Craftsman saws could use a bit of refreshing. One of which is a deadringer for a D-23.....

Small box will just get a bottom nailed to it, bit of overhang, so I can slide it into some grooves to hold small drawers. Still need to glue it up. Just nails for the bottom, no glue.

[Patrick Chase]

Next saw to be worked on is an 8 ppi D-8. The two Craftsman 8ppi saws seemed to be ok, sharpness-wise. One is even a deadringer for a Disston D-23.

What size files for a 8ppi saw? And where to find a few? The one I used on the No. 7 was a 6" xx slim. Do I try to find a skinnier size of file?

It depends on what you're doing (cutting teeth vs just sharpening) and who you believe. Most guidelines out there are in tpi, and 8 ppi is 7 tpi.

The usual rule of thumb is that the faces of the file should be twice as high as the backs of the teeth. For example LV used that rule to set their guidelines here (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=69854&cat=1,320,43072,43089,69854), which say that you should be using a 6" Slim file on a 7 tpi saw.

Isaac Smith of Blackburn Tools (and Stewie IIRC) argues that the corners of the file see much harder use than the middle of the face, so it's OK to "overlap" and use the middle of the face when cutting from both adjacent corners. The resulting guidelines (http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/taper-saw-files/index.html) say that you should use a 6" X-Slim at 7 tpi.

My take is that Blackburn's argument is more valid for [re-]cutting teeth than for sharpening. When you cut teeth you start out using only the corner of the file and then gradually use more of the faces as you work down, and that validates his assumption that the middle of the faces sees less use and it's OK to overlap. If on the other hand you just do routine sharpening and minor tooth-shaping you're always using the corners and faces of the files ~equally, and the LV guidelines are more appropriate.

From a practical perspective it probably doesn't matter. The corners on both 6" XS and 2XS files are plenty sharp for an 8 tpi saw.

[steven c newman]

For now, just a routine sharpening, teeth are fine, just a bit dull. Tooth lines are even straight. The 6" xslim I have seems to be ok for the 7ppi saws. The 8ppi ( as stamped on the saw plate) may need a skinnier file.

[Patrick Chase]

For now, just a routine sharpening, teeth are fine, just a bit dull. Tooth lines are even straight. The 6" xslim I have seems to be ok for the 7ppi saws. The 8ppi ( as stamped on the saw plate) may need a skinnier file.

I would absolutely not use a skinnier file on an 8 PPI / 7 TPI saw. Even under Isaac's guidelines your 6" X-slim is the smallest you should use. For routine sharpening I would personally use a 6" Slim on that saw.

This is easy enough to check visually - just lay the file between 2 teeth (rotated to follow the rake) and check how much of the file's face will be used to cut the back of the tooth. You want to see 1/2 (LV guidelines) to a bit under 2/3 (Blackburn guidelines).

[steven c newman]

Will have to go and set things up, again. With the GrandBRATS coming here for the weekend, should be plenty of time to hide in the shop....

[steven c newman]

Made a stop today......picked 5 saw files for a $1. Needs cleaned up, will try later to see what they all are......2 @ 5", and 3 @ 6".

[steven c newman]

Used the 6" Xslim on the Disston D-8 today. Still has two bad teeth that catch in the cut.....will work on that after awhile. Wound up doing a full restore on the saw. Handle had traces of mold on it, that was soon stripped down and refinished. Plate has been shined up, along with the brass. Seems to be a 1953 model by Disston. 8 ppi skew back, with just Disston on the medallion...no sons.

Film @ 2300 hrs......welll....not quite that late..
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And a close up of the brass-plated "Brass"
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Will just have to do..for now.