Shaper methods question.

[Jared Sankovich]

I just finished making some stair nosing, and I'm wondering how others would approach it. The shape is similar to this
333586 but 4.5" wide and the thickness is .301 on the thin side and 1.00 on the bull nose 1.25" projection.

I ended up cutting the bull-nose first with a outboard fence, then came in and removed most of the rabbet with a 60mm tall rabbet head and a plywood zero clearance fence. The remaining stub was cut off on the ts, since I got horrible tear out when I tried to do it with the rabbeting head face down.

Bull nose setup
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/jar944/rps20160310_215618_231_zpssydtroa3.jpg

After first rabbeting pass
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/jar944/rps20160309_215442_208_zps0echkxhh.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/jar944/rps20160309_215442_208_zps0echkxhh.jpg

After sawing off the support "nub"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/jar944/rps20160310_215414_389_zps0tmctoh4.jpg

Anything I should have done differently?

[jack forsberg]

Got a saw blade for the spindle moulder? I've also done that cut on the jointer because the Outfeed table supports the thin stock. splits fence would do that I suppose too . You don't say what size spindle molder you're using

[Jared Sankovich]

Sorry it's a 5hp 1.25" spindle. It's a grizzly 8622. (Pm2700 ish clone with 6008 bearings)

No saw blade, but I could have bored one to fit.

[Joe Calhoon]

Sorry it's a 5hp 1.25" spindle. It's a grizzly 8622. (Pm2700 ish clone with 6008 bearings)

No saw blade, but I could have bored one to fit.

I think you did fine with what you have to work with. A saw blade would work for the rebate but you need a platform on the shaper table to allow the waste piece to drop out without kickback. I don't have access to all my photos so no picture.

We do odd pieces of millwork every day in our shop. For small quantities where a moulder knife grind is not cost effective the shaper with a few passes works fine. Insert rebate and adjustable grooving cutters with knickers will eliminate any tear out. The Aigner accessories help but you can make zero fences like you already did as a workaround.

In our works I would do the bullnose first, possibly the small groove, 5 degree ramps and offset before removing the big rebate. Then the big rebate and last step finishing the 5 degree slope on the nosing rebate with the shaft tilted and workpiece flat on the shaper table. These type things you just have to jump in and experement sometimes to find the right sequence.

I take it this is a nosing piece for thin engineered or Pergo type flooring? The bevels may not be needed but easy enough to do with a tilting shaft or saw blade in table saw. Just more time.
333601333602

[Joe Calhoon]

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCZ2uLjJUruopJHaNcpQwrCQ?feature=watch



Here is a Utube from our shop showing how the platform is used to safely remove a saw cut out with shaper.

look at the one called "Glass bead removal on shaper"

[peter gagliardi]

I would have, and have done it the same. Has everything to do with knowing what your tooling is and being able to utilize it efficiently.