Name that joint! please?

[Matteo Lorenzo]

Hey everyone

I was hoping someone in here might help me finding the name of a particular type of joint I am interested in executing.

It seems relatively common in midcentury modern styled furniture.

Basically its a butt joint where a rectangular member meets a cylindrical member in a flush manner, utilizing a cove at the same radius as the cylindrical member.

apologies for the poor quality of this image - but because I dont know the language for this joint, i cant find quality examples!

Any ideas of how these joints are achieved? (in an average home shop, that is...)

thanks in advance!
ex: http://i.imgur.com/1QYUBNi.jpg

for clarity's sake ... this is the image that cropping was taken from...
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0202/3990/products/Case_Study_Ceramic_Cylinder_With_Wood_Stand_-_Large_1_1024x1024.jpg

[Keith Weber]

It's hard to see the detail in the pic, but if you're okay with the flat board fitting into a mortise that is the same size as the flat board, it would be easiest to just use a hollow-chisel mortiser and plunge-cut a rectangular mortise into the edge of a flat board.

If you want the flat board to have a profile to match the round leg, then I would try using a floating tenon, because cutting a solid tenon with a cheek matching the rounded profile would be very difficult. To cut the profile in the end of the flat board, I would use a shaper with a big cove bit of the appropriate size. If you don't have a shaper, a possible substitute might be to cut the the cove with a bandsaw, and then touch it up with a sanding drum of the appropriate radius. Sandpaper around a big dowel would work, too, in a pinch, as a substitute for a sanding drum.

[peter gagliardi]

The horizontal piece has a cope cut, with tenon inside normally. It does not matter that the vertical member is round.

[Lee Schierer]

It is a simple dado joint, just like you would make for a shelf. It is cut just deep enough so that the curve of the leg meets the side of the cross piece. I believe the red line in the enlargement is wrong at the top. It should just be a straight line like the bottom. It would not be a particularly strong joint.

[Andrew Hughes]

It's not a very good joint barely strong enough to hold up that container filled with butterfly wings.;)
Theres probably no name for it.Looks like something a non woodworking designer came up with.

[pat warner]

Coped joint. Typically located and fixed with 2 or 3 dowels.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would create a flat spot on your dowel/leg for each one, and then plow a mortise into the leg, about halfway through. Then mill a tenon on your corbel (for want of a better term) so that it seats in the mortise. When you glue them together, it would make for a strong joint.

Doc

[keith wootton]

i'm with pat. cove may have been cut on a shaper. i would use a forstner bit down through rail stock cut long so the bit would be supported.

keith

[Jerome Stanek]

It is a simple dado joint, just like you would make for a shelf. It is cut just deep enough so that the curve of the leg meets the side of the cross piece. I believe the red line in the enlargement is wrong at the top. It should just be a straight line like the bottom. It would not be a particularly strong joint.


Looks strong to me the cross pieces look to be at least 3 inches tall if the legs are 1 inch

[Javed Akhtar]

I've done this. It's a straightforward M&T joint with a few twists: Firstly it's a loose tenon, so a mortise in the side of the round legs, and a mortise in the end of the rail. Then in order to get the cove on the end of the rail, I used the appropriate diameter forstner bit, drilled downwards through the rail stock on the drill press. I clamped sacrificial material to both sides of the rail in order to avoid tearout and to give the bit a good bearing surface.

In order for this all to work, I cut the rail long, and made the mortise in the rail extra deep - this accounts for the material loss when you make the cove. You can fine tune the seating of the joint by trimming the loose tenon as appropriate. I used a plane and a shooting board to take small bites.

The important part is to make the mortise on the end of the rail before making the cove - much easier that way. If you have a Domino, it's quick. I don't, so I drilled a row of holes and chiseled out the waste.

[Matteo Lorenzo]

thanks everyone for your input!
I think i have a good idea of what it is and how to execute it now.

i really appreciate all your help!

[Matteo Lorenzo]

thanks for the help all.

thought id share the outcome of your advice.

http://i.imgur.com/uomkFTk.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/hfLxgTo.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/A2QmjfE.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/SNyMzUk.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/3t3vj6j.jpg

[Cody Colston]

Well done. Did you use dowels to attach?
I really like the facets you left on the leg tops.

[Andrew Hughes]

I like the way you shaped the end of the leg but that's it!
:)
Just kidding nice work.

[Javed Akhtar]

That looks great - well done! What technique did you end up using?

[Matteo Lorenzo]

thanks everyone... the kind words mean a lot!


Well done. Did you use dowels to attach?
I really like the facets you left on the leg tops.

so i used this as a practice piece for a few things..

the chiseled detailing is something ive wanted to incorporate, as well as the subtle curve on the bottom of the crosspieces... i got to finally
practice with a spokeshave, cleaning it up with a drillpress drum sanding setup.
i learned floating tenon construction for the leg/crosspiece connections using a jig i found on finewoodworking.
i cut the mortises on the leg blanks prior to turning them on the lathe and into the ends of the cross pieces using my router with the jig.


then, after trying several times to get a reliable cove using the drill press and a forstner bit, I decided to go with a tried and true method I came up with
last year on a furniture repair job for a friend...

its hacky, so hold on to your hats...

After I turned the legs to their final diameters on the lathe, i turned an offcut to the same diameter (should have gone SLIGHTLY shy of the leg diameters, but ill get to that).

I then left that dowel on the spindle and used spray adhesive on a piece of 150g sandpaper and cleanly wrapped teh dowel without any overlapping.
I then rested the workpiece on the toolrest at the appropriate height and slowly hogged out the radius on the ends. It didnt take long but it did take multiple rewraps of the paper since the endgrain
just kept wearing the paper out.

As I said, i should have gone just beyond the final diameter of the legs to account for sandpaper thickness, but it wasnt a big deal. I took each leg and a piece of 150g sandpaper and careful rubbed their
mating pieces to a clean fitting final radius.

heres a shot of me testing this method last year for the furniture repair if my explanation was unclear...

http://i.imgur.com/xJkrqUV.jpg

[Matteo Lorenzo]

That looks great - well done! What technique did you end up using?
because im still not really sure of how this forum works, i detailed it in a response to a previous poster.

do notifications to all thread posters when a new response is posted or? the hybrid/threaded etc views are a little confusing to me.

anyways - i appreciated your insight earlier. thanks!

[Michael Stein]

because im still not really sure of how this forum works, i detailed it in a response to a previous poster.

do notifications to all thread posters when a new response is posted or? the hybrid/threaded etc views are a little confusing to me.

anyways - i appreciated your insight earlier. thanks!

Only if the users are "subscribed" to the thread. Otherwise, puts your post back to the top to be clicked on again. I agree, the hybrid view is junk. I switched the default to liner mode. Makes much more sense.
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