The Essential Accessories Thread

[Raphael Weil]

Sorry if this thread already exists, spent 15 minutes looking and didn't find anything based on numerous searches.

I thought it would be useful (particularly to noobs like me) to discuss what tools/accessories you guys have in your shops that are considered essential to preventing delays, breakdowns, fires, or just useful tools in general. I've noticed a lot of people talking about being equipped with the means to measure voltage on their circuits and started to wonder if I need to beef up some of the tools I keep around my Speedy 300. I figure we can skip the power tools/saws and such that people use for cutting various mediums, and stick to the essentials for laser ownership. Maybe I'll list what I have, and what I want, and some of the more experienced members can fill some of the gaps?

I've got:

-all the means for cleaning my lenses mirrors
-some toothbrushes/scrubbers for the stronger gunk since I do a lot of hardwood
-I cut out some backup focus tools
-lots of spare filters and carbon for my exhausting
-all the alan keys in the world it seems
-inert gas extinguisher for inside the laser bed, normal extinguisher for the structure
-NEST smoke detector (these things are awesome)
-camera rigged into my laser so I can sit comfortably a bit farther away and still watch my work
-spray bottle with some water in it
-heavy duty blue shop towels for cleaning off finished pieces (for hardwood that can be key)
-99% alcohol and compressed air for cleaning circuits
-cloud storage of all my settings/software/files



I want:

-a UPS that can handle an 80W Speedy 300
-grounding strap
-contemplating one backup lens at my most common setting (1.5")
-far more comfortable eye protection. Noticed some eye pain from peaking in there to check out how engraving is going
-backup serial cable since in my world my cables always die


That's a start! Any glaring gaps?

[Doug Griffith]

That's a pretty long list you've got there. How about some 3" wide painters tape for running a light pass to help while indicating material. Also some calipers to check material thickness. Weights, magnets or another means to hold down warped material. I personally create a "pan" out of aluminum foil that sits below the honeycomb grid. It catches small pieces and helps keep the machine clean.

[Paul Phillips]

+1 on the calipers, for cleaning gunk and residue off of the rails, wheels and guides I use the lazrclean spray from Johnson Plastics, it works great for me, I also use their optic cleaning tissues and cleaner. I ordered some thin lead bars from McMaster-Carr for holding down tricky material which seems to work well also.
Doug, nice idea on the foil "catcher"!

[Joel Ifill]

Just adding to the discussion
I have 1-2-3 blocks and small Vee-blocks I got offline they are great as they are perfectly square and let me make simple fixtures easily, the v-blocks are very useful for doing round parts that don't need indexing. I also have 2 aerosol can fire extinguishers which are just the right size for a laser and not dry powder. Finally we use a lot of 3" masking tape to tape off wood for cutting.

That aluminum foil trick sounds great, can't believe I didn't think of that!

[Raphael Weil]

The foil idea is so awesome! I'm absolutely going to do that. I forgot to mention that I use plasticine to level stuff that's uneven. Works pretty great.

[Doug Griffith]

Adding a foil "pan" was the first thing I did when I got the laser. It works great and can be pulled out when small parts fall through the grid. Plus it's easier to see them when they do fall through.

[Doug Griffith]

I use flat file drawers as my laser stand. They don't come cheap but I don't know what I would do without them.

[David Somers]

Well......I know you guys could only afford a Trotec and so I see the need to use aluminum foil to help make it more functional. For those of you out there considering a laser purchase you might note that most of the Chinese lasers have drawers under the tables that collect debris and can be removed easily for cleaning. Just saying!!! <teasing grin>

[vic casware]

recently bought a starter pack of Leggo and a 10 inch square base to stick them on
so easy to make jigs for almost anything.

[Kev Williams]

I have all the basics like everyone else, but there's 2 items I use virtually every day:

1- steel bars for weight and spacing, I've mentioned these before. I had a customer make me up a dozen each 12" x 1-3/4" x 3/4" bars, and a dozen 12" x 3/4" x 1/2" bars. I use these mostly for weight to keep warped edges down, or as a second 'wall'; typically I'll push a bar up against the lower-right corner of the part I'm engraving so it won't move due to vibration or the machine rocking. I've saved a lot of money and broken fingernails not having to mess with tape!

2- aluminum spacers, which I use with almost every job, every day, on every machine. They're courtesy of a past customer who left them here (like 50 of them)... they're EXACTLY 2" wide, about 1/2" thick, and about 14" long. I have several of them taped together in pairs to create a tall 'wall' for items that the normal ruler-stops won't 'stop'. I use them as X and Y offsets in the laser to position critical jobs closer to where I can see and measure, or to keep clamped parts away from the laser cabinet walls. In my LS900 I've had a 4"-X and 2"-Y offset I've used for 2 years- this is because my X belt has worn teeth in the zero-to-2" region, which causes poor engraving quality (overly-bold lettering, etc)- I've had a new belt for years, but I haven't needed it simply by avoiding the first 2" using the spacers. When the NEXT 2" goes bad, THEN I'll put on that $90 belt! On my CNC machines I use them to offset the X and Y home position, so that I can use T-slot clamps on the left and top sides of pieces. Since the shims so close to 2" and very parallel, setup is quick and easy...

[Mayo Pardo]

Windex or other suitable cleaner to clean off materials prior to masking them with transfer tape or masking tape.
Transfer tape masking on rolls (check sign supply companies) and squeegees to apply it.
T-square or carpenter framing square to check material.
3 tape measures because you will misplace two of them before the next time you need one.
For cleaning the stainless steel bed when it accumulates soot and resin, acetone or citrus based cleaner such as Krud Kutter.
Flash Drives to back up jobs away from your design computer. Also to back up your job control materials/settings file.
Mineral Spirits to remove adhesive residue when other methods don't work. This can also be used as a wipe down prior to staining with solvent based stain.
A notebook to keep record of materials and settings while trying to find that sweet spot that works perfectly.
Extra fuses if your laser has them (the Trotec does) just in case...

[Raphael Weil]

Windex or other suitable cleaner to clean off materials prior to masking them with transfer tape or masking tape.
Transfer tape masking on rolls (check sign supply companies) and squeegees to apply it.
T-square or carpenter framing square to check material.
3 tape measures because you will misplace two of them before the next time you need one.
For cleaning the stainless steel bed when it accumulates soot and resin, acetone or citrus based cleaner such as Krud Kutter.
Flash Drives to back up jobs away from your design computer. Also to back up your job control materials/settings file.
Mineral Spirits to remove adhesive residue when other methods don't work. This can also be used as a wipe down prior to staining with solvent based stain.
A notebook to keep record of materials and settings while trying to find that sweet spot that works perfectly.
Extra fuses if your laser has them (the Trotec does) just in case...

Ya I certainly learned about the fuse thing week 1.

Hey is there really a life expectancy benefit from engraving things a few inches from the edge of the bed as opposed to right against the edge? Because with a 29" bed I have ample room to move over. I'm building some jigs out of plywood to mirror your T-Square idea and simultaneously place my pieces in the best place possible on the bed. I just never thought about which location on the bed would be best to place my stuff. I mostly work in identical size formats (as I rarely do custom work for now).

[John Blazy]

I cant emphasize enough how grateful I am to you guys recommending the N42 and N52 Neodymium magnets from KJMagnetics.com

I spent hours pouring through their sizes til I found the 1/2" x 1/2" x 2" magnets with 67 lbs pull. I thought the N42's would be good enough, but I prefer the N52's.


Imagine the weight of a large lead brick within the size footprint of a pen cap. Laser just cuts around them fine. I have steel running though my grid, but they would be fine over a steel honeycomb.


Im a little biased, because a lot of my panels are warped a bit, and over 1/4" thick, so most of you might not need magnets of this power, but I use them for all my hold downs now.


Just don't pick one up with one in your hand already - scares the crap out of me every time.

[Kev Williams]

John, I love your signature about going to the moon. Reminds me of this quote by Alan Shepherd:

It's a very sobering feeling to be up in space and realize that one's safety factor was determined by the lowest bidder on a government contract.
:)

Which reminds me of another 'essential accessory' for doing this for a living:
A sense of humor!

[John Blazy]

Cool Kev!

My favorite quote is from Gene Cernan, last man on the moon, about the 15 second rule:

"It takes fifteen seconds for the Saturn V to clear the tower. If one of its five Rocketdyne F1 engines fails within that 15 seconds, that rocket is coming down. If, however one of those engines fail after clearing the tower, it has burned enough fuel, therefore its lighter, and the remaining four engines will take it into orbit"

That's awesome.

[Gary Hair]

If, however one of those engines fail after clearing the tower, it has burned enough fuel, therefore its lighter, and the remaining four engines will take it into orbit

Think how much they could have saved if they would have just started it above the tower...

[Jerome Stanek]

Cool Kev!

My favorite quote is from Gene Cernan, last man on the moon, about the 15 second rule:

"It takes fifteen seconds for the Saturn V to clear the tower. If one of its five Rocketdyne F1 engines fails within that 15 seconds, that rocket is coming down. If, however one of those engines fail after clearing the tower, it has burned enough fuel, therefore its lighter, and the remaining four engines will take it into orbit"

That's awesome.

They could save a lot if they just used 4 engines and removed the extra fuel

[Don Corbeil]

Also some calipers to check material thickness.
+1 on the calipers. I just purchased a digital set last week, and I can't believe I waited this long!

[Brian Leavitt]

90% of what I do consists of coated metals, plastic, and various awards. These two are essentials for me...

First is the rack of various tapes and masking in various sizes:
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Second is the piece I made for running glass which already has a base attached. The edge of the raised portion is 3" down from the top of the laser bed and the top of the base goes against that part. I also made a macro in Corel which moves objects 3" down from the top of the page.
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That's about it for me. Well... along with almost all of the items mentioned in previous posts.