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William C Rogers
03-06-2016, 8:11 AM
Usually I don't leave the chuck on the lathe. I am in the process of raising my lathe and the chuck has been in place for about 3 weeks. When I went to remove the chuck it was "froze". I did eventually get it off. Should I be waxing or lubing the spindle threads? What is best to use. The lathe is a PM 90 and a Penn State chuck. It has been on and off the lathe multiple times before without a problem and I do use a spacer behind the chuck.

Steve Schlumpf
03-06-2016, 9:26 AM
William, I am sure everyone has their own way of doing things but the first thing I would do is clean the threads on both your chuck and the spindle. Then I would rub some candle wax over the threads to act as a dry lube. Shouldn't have any problems after that.

john taliaferro
03-06-2016, 10:12 AM
Sthil chainsaw bar oil works good for me . I keep some in the small needle accordian bottles . Trash sticks in the thread on the shelf so clean every time reinstalled .

hu lowery
03-06-2016, 1:17 PM
Maybe a little colloidal graphite or light oil. I used the plastic spacer that shipped with something, it distorted and kept my chuck from sitting straight. I used candle wax and it also got where it wasn't wanted and kept my chuck from sitting straight. Graphite powder would work as well as the colloidal stuff such as Lockease but I get the liquid stuff in the squeeze bottle so I don't get it all over the place. Obviously different solutions for different people. Mostly I don't use anything but when the chuck sat on the spindle for a week or more it did take a little gentle persuasion to remove it. Nice to have a large strap wrench on hand for these occasions.

Hu

Paul Williams
03-06-2016, 1:42 PM
If stuck I open the jaws enough to slide my knock out bar or large screw driver across the face of the chuck and then rap the handle with my palm. A sharp wrap seems to be more effective than steady pressure.

robert baccus
03-06-2016, 7:34 PM
Use what was made for this. Machinist do. Buy a can of anti-freeze thread lube at any auto store. Prevents siezures and lubricates the threads preventing wear. Throw away the plastic rings. It also has fibers in it and the chuck never needs a lock screw--just doesn't back off when sanding in reverse.

John K Jordan
03-06-2016, 8:15 PM
Do you use the wrench or another method? The wrench has always worked for me. I've seen people put the chuck key in the chuck and whack that, but I prefer the wrench. I haven't lubed with oil since I don't want fine sawdust sticking to the threads. I did spray some dry lube on the threads once. Also, I clean the threads occasionally with a brass brush (with the lathe running slowly.)

JKJ

jared parson
03-07-2016, 12:46 AM
Im guilty of the chuck key whack..Pauls method sounds good too.

david privett
03-07-2016, 9:07 AM
I am in the candle wax isle, it is dry , tackless so does not attract foreign matter and what else do you do with a 2 inch candle stub? If the chuck get a little tight I open the jaws just enough to place the spur removal rod between them a just apply a little pressure, comes right off. try it you'll like it!

Kyle Iwamoto
03-07-2016, 10:34 AM
I'm in the clean/light oil the threads regularly group. The quick hit with your hand or a mallet works best. Whether you use a wrench or the key. I agree with tossing out that washer. I think it causes more problems than it solves.

William C Rogers
03-07-2016, 2:17 PM
Good ideas. I have nickel never seize that I will try first. Basically it is pure nickel finely ground, bit would call it a dry lube. I will also try the wax system to see which is better. Wax is easier, but requires treatment more often. But nothing until I get the lathe back together. And I have to finish a project for my wife before I can get back to the lathe. Thanks for the options.

dan petroski
03-07-2016, 5:42 PM
When you get it off put a paper washer between the chuck and the collar on the shaft that the chuck seats on and you will never stick the chuck again. dan

Leo Van Der Loo
03-07-2016, 9:26 PM
If you go to the metal industry you will NOT find any plastic or paper or other material stuck in between chucks and spindle shoulders.

Properly machined steel surfaces do not get stuck, even with much higher pressures on these parts, make sure you install the chuck tight (with a flick of the wrist is a good way to do this)

The only other thing I would use if there is no junk on the threads and no galling on either surfaces is some Never Seez, if anything at all

Jeff Grantham
03-08-2016, 7:08 AM
I used to have trouble with my chuck getting stuck on the spindle, but ever since I started using a no-lock spindle washer, it hasn't been an issue. Well worth a couple bucks in my opinion!

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/112/5507/Turners-Select-No-Lock-Spindle-Washer

John Brown
03-08-2016, 8:29 AM
Leo,
No truer words were ever spoken.

dan petroski
03-08-2016, 2:50 PM
Well all I can say is that I've been in the metal industry for 50 yrs both as a tool and die maker and a machinist. Owned two machine shops and every chuck with a screw thread had a paper washer. Also ask any well driller what goes between the drill stem and the cutter head? Just my 2c worth

Leo Van Der Loo
03-08-2016, 3:51 PM
Not where I come from, metal on metal it was always, and no I’m not a well driller, and for what I’ve seen the pipes are tapered treaded and screwed together, never seen them placing paper on those pipes, however do as you feel is the way, won’t happen here though.