where to purchase 12' laimnate counter top with miter

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I was hoping to purchase a 12' laminate counter top with integrated back splash and a 45 degree miter at one end. The longest I can find is 10'. Pretty sure that I can cut the straight end to fit into the around 11 foot span.

Alternatively, how difficult is it to join a straight section of this type of counter top? I can probably use my router to create the connection points that they have on a 45, but, is it easy to make it sit flush? It was suggested to me that it might not be easy, but, why would that be more difficult than getting a 45 to sit flush?

[Tom M King]

Can't you order one from one of the big box stores? Sorry, no help on the question, but it can't be That hard.

[Mark W Pugh]

I would say that butting two straight edges together is going to cause a laminate joint that does not sit flush. Building it is easy, and you can get the laminate seam perfect.

[Tom M King]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_584815-1110-111308011291871-35_0__?productId=50145608

[Myk Rian]

Aacck. $250?

[Mike Ontko]

Aacck. $250?

Yeah, but compared to a solid surface countertop of the same size...

[Tom Ewell]

Special order might have to be the ticket.

Had a similar situation of in stock counters being too short and couldn't wait for special orders. Ended up putting an available 2' butcher block section in and using the cutoff from postform to fill out the rest.

Could probably get two butts together if the extra joint is not a consideration, the typical econo big box binder is kinda OK but might look into different style binders (ie. Knape & Vogt) or the Fastcap solution. If you go with something like the Knape Vogt, resist the urge to get the offered spade bit, the thing stinks, get a Forstner of the correct size or jig up a router thingy.

In my experience, there is always a small variation in the profile of postform counters (especially the ogee types), even within a single section, so the joints, no matter what method is used to bind them, is a PITA to get it close to perfectly right but for the most part a reasonable/functional joint can be obtained. Pickup some matching top filler to help out with the joint.

[Jerome Stanek]

Aacck. $250?

Price one out if you make it yourself. You would have close to that in material.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I would say that butting two straight edges together is going to cause a laminate joint that does not sit flush. Building it is easy, and you can get the laminate seam perfect.

It was suggested that was the case, but, why is it not a problem with the 45 degree joints at the corners?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Pickup some matching top filler to help out with the joint.

Top filler. Was not even aware that it existed...

I think that I will end up special ordering the longer piece. One issue is that it will be a phased conversion. First, will do a part with shorter sections. I mentioned that if we need to special order that we need to make sure that they can special order what was chosen. If it was easy to connect shorter pieces it would be less of a problem. Even better if they simply carried what you wanted in stock.

[Tom Ewell]

The top filler is more of a chip out 'repair' thing, I've used it on joints some but the water mixed glue supplied with the install kits can squeeze out the top of the joints and you have to clean it up enough to get it a little below the surface for the filler to really work. Most times though the joints get 'close enough' that the glue gets cleaned flush.

[Jerome Stanek]

We join 2 0r 3 sections of counter tops all the time in CVS pharmacies RX counter and front check out use splines and drawtites.

[Tom Ewell]

Don't think anyone was suggesting that it couldn't be done Jerome, the guy was short by a foot for his install, he probably doesn't have that 'all of the time' experience, he's dealing with postform tops with the backsplash and trying to cutup the counters most likely on site with less than optimal gear not associated with commercial production and shops fabricating the same.

[Jerome Stanek]

If he splits the top up by buying 2 6ft tops and use the factory edges and trim the one he could do it. Use a biscuit joiner or Domino to align them

[Tom Ewell]

Sure he could but what's the layout of the kitchen (if it is one), a sink in the middle of joint might not be the best place for the it.
Could also 8' and 4' sections
If he can get a 12' section let him do it.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Sink in the middle, bad place for a joint.

My first thought was that I could throw together a template and then route the figure in the bottom to use those join tight things that they use for the angled sections.

I have zero experience with counters, but these are prefab with an integrated back splash. The layout will be (right to left).



Angled piece because it goes into an L.
Sink.
Dish washer
Cabinets to the wall


Was thinking that I might be able to add an extra foot or two on the far left where things sit over a cabinet.

Route connector slots, slap them together.

I do not really know what is required to connect them other than that; for example, do I glue those angled pieces together when I connect them using those fancy connectors that draw them together? Do I then need to support those underneath with some extra support boards?

[Tom Ewell]

The binders draw the parts together and act as permanent clamps, the supplied water mixed glue (included in the binder kit from the store) offers some strength to keep things aligned but might be considered more of a seal.

If you're going to move the counter around a lot you can add some support to the joint by scabbing some ply or other across the seam below, can also help with alignment.

You can do the spline/biscuit/domino thing suggested by Jerome for alignment, index from to top but it needs to be spot on to be good. If not you'll have some up-down wiggle room to get it right.

If you're doing the extra joint on the left side of the long run, get a longer piece for the shorter leg of the L and cut the edge off of that to fit and use the factory edged cutoff for the second joint.

As you imply, try to keep the second joint over a cabinet. Avoid the sink area and the unsupported DW hole (of course can add some scabbing below this joint as well if you think need it)

There should be a bunch of install videos on the net so check them out.

Be careful of the sink cut out, once done, the counter gets pretty weak around it. Preinstalling the sink, if feasible, makes it easier for the plumber.

This stuff pretty hefty so have some help.

Have fun.