Bathroom-proofing wood

[Chris Yarish]

I am reno-ing a few bathrooms in my house right now and I am looking for finishing advice for the following (feel free to tell me not to use or do something though).

1. I want to frame mirror with solid Walnut. What is a good, durable, humitity resistent finish for the frame?

2. I want to make the vanity out of cabinet grade walnut plywood. What can I do to protect this in a similar fashion?

3. (this is the one you could advise against, as it's the one I'm least likely to see the desired results from) I want to make a countertop out of solid walnut, approx 2 1/2"- 2 3/4" thick.
I am using an above the counter sink with a single hole faucet.

Much appreciated...

[Don Baer]

Chris,
I had a problem with moisture in one of my hall baths and tried various finishes. The best luck I had was installing a more powerful exhaust fan tied into the light switch. My oldest son would shower for so long and so many times a day he was peeling the wall paper off of the walls, not to mention what was happening to the Oak cabinates. I know that you were looking for a finish answer but I thought I'd pass that along also.

[JayStPeter]

Chris,

Your first two are pretty normal. Just about every bathroom has that stuff in there. Most cabinet mfrs use pre-cat lacquer or something similar. But, poly has worked well for me on bathroom fixtures before.

There is a mfr that makes solid wood counters and sinks with some sort of super strong finish. Can't remember the name though. I saw it on one of the HGTV specials at "the hardware show" or something. They definitely looked cool. They even made wooden bathtubs.

Jay

[Chris Yarish]

Yeah, the bathtubs are generally teak, and sinks in teak or mahogany...I've seen a few of those in magazines. Sharp stuff, and from what I've heard, are extremely expensive and about as long lasting and durable as you'd expect wood-as-a-sink or wood-as-a-bathtub to be.

I am more likely to do the vanity in plywood, but perhaps the counter in concrete...unless someone can compel me to use solid wood.

What kind of poly looks good in a bathroom (glossy, satin, clear etc.) and how many coats would suffice?

[Jim Becker]

I am more likely to do the vanity in plywood, but perhaps the counter in concrete...unless someone can compel me to use solid wood.

Well...I'm not going to compel you to use a wooden counter in your bathroom! I really don't think you can protect your walnut (or most other woods) from discoloration, etc, that will result from all that water which will certainly coat it from daily use. And that water WILL get under any film finish at some point. As mentioned, there are some wood products out there that are finding their way into this space, but they are either really exotic stuff or have special processes. Stone, concrete or a synthetic will be more practical and contrast nicely with the beautiful walnut cabinetry. IMHO, of course.


What kind of poly looks good in a bathroom (glossy, satin, clear etc.) and how many coats would suffice?

Purely a personal and subjective thing. "Clear" for sure... ;) (although any oil-based varnish will have some degree of yellow/amber cast to it which is actually good for the walnut). I personally don't like glossy-shiny furniture and would probably go for the satin, hand-rubbed look. But that might not be correct for your design and decorative plan.

[Steve Schoene]

I'll pile on with Jim and advise against the wood countertop. Stone has come down in price and faces serious competition from various synthetic materials.

[Chris Yarish]

Didn't take much to deter me from wood.
I'm going to explore limestone or concrete...or, worst case scenario, formica.

[Earl Kelly]

Chris, solid wood countertops will work. I made some for an architect out of BE Maple. I finished them with a very liberal poly on all edges,underside and face. Still holding up after 6 yrs. The thing about wood is caring for it, it was just him and his wife so he told me they don't throw wet towels around or puddle water on the counters. I was very skeptical of the use in a bathroom, but he assured me they would be cared for properly.

I have also, cut out tops and modified the drawers on chests to use as a vanity in guest baths, with no problems. So, I would base my decision on the moisture present and persons using said bath. One thing about it, with a surface mount sink, if you have problems later it would be easy to replace with any other material.

PS You can also use something like West Sytem epoxy to make your wood top totally waterproof. Takes a bit of practice, lots of sanding, but then you can top coat with any finish you want for the desired sheen, which I would use satin.

[Chris Yarish]

I'm really interested in getting familiar with different epoxies and resins to acheive unique textures and surfaces. I just have no idea what angle or what sources to seek out for some good 'ol self-teaching.

[Bob Johnson2]

Might be worth looking at spar urethane or varnish for a finish in the bathroom. You can find some good epoxy info at westsystems.com. They also have some good info they'll send you if you can find the "free literature" link.

[Chris Yarish]

So I'm OK to use a veneered plywood for the vanity, so long as I use poly to seal/protect it?
I'm starting on a concrete countertop....pics will follow.

[Jim Becker]

Polyurethane varnish will work, as will alkyd or phenolic varnish, lacquer, etc., as long as they are applied properly and allowed to cure. I also suggest you use either shellac, lacquer or a waterbourne acrylic product for the interior of the cabinet...do NOT use an oil based finish in there as it will off-gas and smell "forever".

BTW, you probably know about it, but Taunton has a nice book on concrete counters.

[Phil Phelps]

I also suggest you use either shellac, lacquer or a waterbourne acrylic product for the interior of the cabinet...do NOT use an oil based finish in there as it will off-gas and smell "forever".BTW, you probably know about it, but Taunton has a nice book on concrete counters.[/QUOTE]

I used Benjamin Moore satin Impervo on the inside of my cabinets, two coats. Very little odor. And, there was a gas oven pilot light on too. Alkyd fumes and a pilot light usually gags me, but not this time. Went very well.

[Lee Schierer]

The best thing you can do for wood in a bathroom is to install a vent fan that is ducted outside. Getting rid of the excess moisture will help preserve the wood work, the paint and the wallpaper.

I have made two bathroom vanities and medicine cabinets. I also made towel bars, paper roll holder and a trash can. All were solid oak with some plywood. I used polyurethane on both and one is over eight years old now. It still looks like the day it was finished except it has yellowed slightly, which is normal for polyurethane. I applied three coats inside and out on everything. In the vanity I made glass bottoms that cover the wood so the normal chemicals and shampoos don't sit directly on the finish. I also made all the shelves in the medicine cabinet from glass and have a glass plate on the bottom shelf as well. The local glass shop cut them from used store front plate glass for a very nominal fee, including grinding the edges.

[Jim Becker]

I also suggest you use either shellac, lacquer or a waterbourne acrylic product for the interior of the cabinet...do NOT use an oil based finish in there as it will off-gas and smell "forever".BTW, you probably know about it, but Taunton has a nice book on concrete counters.

I used Benjamin Moore satin Impervo on the inside of my cabinets, two coats. Very little odor. And, there was a gas oven pilot light on too. Alkyd fumes and a pilot light usually gags me, but not this time. Went very well.

Phil, as a pro, you know about and have access to products that many folks are just not going to use...they are going to scarf a can of poly from the 'borg and it will stink "forever" when they slather it on the inside of their cabinet. That's why your input is valuable! So I'll just chalk my answer up to "better safe...", as it were...

[Phil Phelps]

Phil, as a pro, you know about and have access to products that many folks are just not going to use...they are going to scarf a can of poly from the 'borg and it will stink "forever" when they slather it on the inside of their cabinet. That's why your input is valuable! So I'll just chalk my answer up to "better safe...", as it were...

Never use turpentine. And, for those who must use Kilz, there is a low oder rendition of that, too.