New table saw with sliding table KÖLLE FKS 40

[Herr Dalbergia]

Hello folks,

just want to share with you my happines about my new, used, sliding table saw from the germany company Kölle.
1000 kg of steel build for eternety....

Cheers, Alex

333008

333009

333010

[Vijay Kumar]

Nice score !

[David Kumm]

Sweet. Kolle is top of the chain. That is how a saw should be built. So heavy there is no need to the extended subtable support sticking out in front of the saw. Let us know how it runs. Dave

[Erik Loza]

N-I-C-E!

Erik

[Martin Wasner]

What a beast!

[Andrew Hughes]

Aww forget about the saw I'd cut off one of my little fingers for a couple lifts of the wood in the the back ground.Out here in the west coast you can't swing a cat by the tail without hitting a table saw.They are everywhere .:)

[mreza Salav]

Yeah, I've seen photos of it (not the actual saw itself) and everytime I look at that fence I think it's insane. It's like something cast for a tank.
Very nice!

[David Kumm]

What is the stroke? HP, multi speed? Crosscut fence and flip stops? I keep needing more info. Dave

[Peter Kelly]

Very nice score!

Kölle went out of business some time ago didn't they?

[Herr Dalbergia]

Hello folks,

@ Peter: yes, Kölle, as well as Bäuerle, went out out of business, they got invalid somewhen in the 80 / 90. They were not selling enough machines, and since the old ones do not break down, they were not selling anything at all anymore...

@ andrew: no need for any amputations! You can buy as much as you want....

@ david:

The saw is running with 3 phase 400Volt Motor with about 10 HP. With changing the belt you can use 3 differnt speed, atm I do not know which speed exactly, I will find out...
Cross Cut fence is of course included, flip stop also, if my interpretation of the word "flip stop" is correct.

Here is a picture of the saw, not mine, this one is in better condition, but gives you an impression what I am dealing with.

Cheers, Alex

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Formatkreissage-Kolle-KFS40-3m-elektrisch/281767267734?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140107083420%26meid%3D7ba35ee458b74f6d8bb 74a3ec2eaedca%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26 sd%3D310750938422

[Kevin Jenness]

Herr D.,

It appears the fence on your saw is fixed unlike most panel saw fences which can be retracted to use safely as a crosscut stop. Do you consider this a problem?

[David Kumm]

Does the sub carriage for the sliding table slide forward and back similar to the old Martin T75 or does this saw just have the short one? The one in the ebay listing has a much longer sub table. Dave

[Jim Becker]

Very nice! Congrats...that will be a great addition to your shop.

[peter gagliardi]

Nice machine. No nonsense and solid. A fixed fence shouldn't present a crosscut issue if used with a block or spacer of some sort that stops short of the front of the blade, you just have to make something.

[Herr Dalbergia]

Hi,

@ Kevin:

I am sorry, but english is not my native language. I read your question now 100 times, but sorry, I do not get it. Can you please try to explain somehow to me what you mean? Perhaps a pictures or a drawing or...I just do not get it, sorry!!!!!

@ david:

Yes, i think I know what you mean. I have never worked with a Martin, so I can not compare. My sliding table is 2,80 meters long. But yes, I can easily loosen two BIG screws at the bottom of the sliding table and move the whole sliding table quite a lot forward or backward, i would say one meter forward and one meter backward. So to say, a sliding table for the sliding table...On my picture the sliding table (the bottom part) is shifted completly to the back, because of transport.

Hoping to find some time on the weekend, then I will post some more pictures if you like.

And yes, the sliding table on the other saw I linked is longer, 3,00 meters, but I am fine with only 2,80 meters....enough for me.

Cheers, Alex

[Kevin Jenness]

Typical sliding table saws fences allow for adjusting the part the wood rides against fore and aft relative to the casting that adjusts for cutting width. When the fence guide plate, typically an aluminum extrusion, is pulled back toward the operator so that its far end is short of the saw blade it can be used as a cutoff stop without risk of kickback. When it is set beyond the blade it can be used as a normal rip fence. Set at the blades center it works for rough ripping of solid wood to prevent pinching due to tension release of solid wood. As Peter points out, a block clamped to the guide plate will serve as a safe crossscut stop, but the fence setting will be off by the block's thickness. I hope this is clear.

Congratulations on your acquisition, that looks like a very nice solid saw.

[jack forsberg]

Sweet. Kolle is top of the chain. That is how a saw should be built. So heavy there is no need to the extended subtable support sticking out in front of the saw. Let us know how it runs. Dave
Good point Dave I hadn't noticed that but that is really nice

[peter gagliardi]

Typical sliding table saws fences allow for adjusting the part the wood rides against fore and aft relative to the casting that adjusts for cutting width. When the fence guide plate, typically an aluminum extrusion, is pulled back toward the operator so that its far end is short of the saw blade it can be used as a cutoff stop without risk of kickback. When it is set beyond the blade it can be used as a normal rip fence. Set at the blades center it works for rough ripping of solid wood to prevent pinching due to tension release of solid wood. As Peter points out, a block clamped to the guide plate will serve as a safe crossscut stop, but the fence setting will be off by the block's thickness. I hope this is clear.

Congratulations on your acquisition, that looks like a very nice solid saw.
Also, depending on where the scale is etched, you could very well read the edge of the clamped block and have accurate cuts, if it's anything like the cast iron Martins.

333500333500333501

[Herr Dalbergia]

Good morning,

thank you for your explanations. I think I got it.

Basically your concerns are, that the fence might be too LONG for some applications? That it always goes behing the blade?

This is not the case, with one heavy big screw / bolt you can take off the ending part of the fence, to make it short and have it not longing behind the blade.

Are we talking about this?

Cheers, Alex

[Kevin Jenness]

Yes, that's it. Good point, Peter.

[peter gagliardi]

Good morning,

thank you for your explanations. I think I got it.

Basically your concerns are, that the fence might be too LONG for some applications? That it always goes behing the blade?

This is not the case, with one heavy big screw / bolt you can take off the ending part of the fence, to make it short and have it not longing behind the blade.

Are we talking about this?

Cheers, Alex

Alex, yes, sort of. In your pics, i can see that the main fence casting stops right about at the rear of the blade. This would still not be good for crosscutting to length with the sliding table and using the rip fence as the stop. Typically the rip fence can either be slid back toward the operator to a few inches before the infeed edge of the sawblade- effectively cutting to lenght and having space to the right of the offcut. This is necessary to avoid the pinching that would happen if you were to use your saw as shown. So, you can clamp a piece of wood- typically 1" or so wide to the fence, and stopping before the teeth a couple inches to give that free space to the right after crosscut is complete.
I will post a more clear picture in a bit.

Here you see how it works.

333541

Then you get:
333542

Safe from binding.

[Frank Drew]

My Ulmia had a cast iron rip fence (similar to the one on this Kolle) but with an added aluminum extrusion that could be moved for and aft. For crosscutting with the slider, however, I used a stop on the sliding table crosscut/back fence. I believe Herr Dalbergia (Mr. Rosewood?) said his saw has a table with flip stop but it's not mounted in the pictures he posted.

Herr D., super nice saw, and thanks for posting the pictures. Does is have the miter fence attachment?

[Frank Drew]

The KFS 40 in the eBay link does have its auxiliary table mounted, plus has an extrusion attached to the main rip fence.

[David Kumm]

Old sliders often had a short cast iron fence that attached to the main long one for ripping or crosscutting to fence as a stop. Many are lost over the years. Looks like the bolt holes are there all ready. I put an AL extrusion on my old cast iron fences and there are many extrusions to choose from. Dave