Help me get on yall's bevel.

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

I did a search but didn't see any newish topics. I need a bevel gauge. I'm going to start practicing on some dovetails soon, and I think I need one for layouts. I'm looking at the Veritas 10" version. I thought I would ask for some advice, as I've never even used a bevel gauge before.

[Bill White]

Bevel gauges are stupid simple. Shouldn't cost an arm for one. Just as long as it holds the setting.
Now if ya want exotic and expensive....................
Bill

[Patrick Chase]

I did a search but didn't see any newish topics. I need a bevel gauge. I'm going to start practicing on some dovetails soon, and I think I need one for layouts. I'm looking at the Veritas 10" version. I thought I would ask for some advice, as I've never even used a bevel gauge before.

There may not have been any newish topics because there aren't any newish answers :-).

I use the Veritas dovetail saddle markers (mostly the 1:8 one, which is about 7 deg). They get the job done as well as any of the bazillion similar tools out there. It's easy enough to make one for yourself for that matter, though the aluminum ones are nice to have.

The traditional option is a sliding bevel, which can be adjusted to any angle you want. There are a vast number on the market. Try searching. I use the saddle squares because then I don't have to worry about levering my sliding bevel out of adjustment.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

As said, it's one of the simplest tools; just make sure the one you get has a good straight edge and that the locking mechanism works. My opinion: get the Veritas. Their locking mechanism locks down tight, and the blade is not too flexy. A lot of times the eBay finds either are loose or they have nicks or bends in the marking edge. That's my $0.02.

[Rob Luter]

For sliding bevels, I like old Stanley #18's. They work great and can be had cheap at antique shops/flea markets/etc. The blades lock down tight and don't move.



http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/bevel_18_8.jpg


I have some Lee Valley Saddle Dovetail markers too.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/woodworking/markmeasure/05n6104s2.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

I made my own many years ago. Then I saw some Joseph Marples dovetail squares at a lumber shop I used to frequent. Bought 'em, use 'em, love 'em.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/joseph_marples_squares.htm

FWIW, many people do not use any layout when cutting dovetails. They will saw the pins or tails by eye and then lay out the second part from the first as is done when cutting dovetails that have been carefully lain out before saw touches wood.

If you have some scrap wood, metal and a short bolt with a wing nut laying about, making your own bevel gauge isn't that difficult.

I have one someone made out of wood. I made a small one for setting fleam when sharpening saws.

One thing to remember if you do make your own is the piece that will be used to mark against has to be wide enough to be slightly above the top of the handle stock. With many bevel gauges the user has to make sure this is the case before locking the blade.

I have bought a number of bevel gauges used. They have all proven to be much better than some of the common, plastic handled, variety currently available at your local hardware store.

jtk

[John Sanford]

Here's a good examination (http://toolmakingart.com/2012/04/09/is-there-one-bevel-gauge-to-rule-them-all/) from a few years back. Myself, I use the Shinwa, which can be found at Lee Valley, Woodcraft, and other sellers. I like the locking mech to be on the END of the body, not on the face.

I plan eventually to treat myself to a Vesper or possibly one of the upcoming Blue Spruce versions just because they're purdy. Until then the Shinwa does the trick for me.

[Mark Fisher]

I originally bought a Stanley piece of junk at the hardware store. I now have a Shinwa. I also have an old Millers Falls end locking gauge. Of the three, the Shinwa wins hands down. Locks up tight, easy to adjust, not too expensive......can't ask for much more than that.

[ken hatch]

Tim,

Like others have posted, the Shinwa marking gauge is as good a marking gauge you can buy any more money just buys "bing". Also as others have pointed out LV makes some very easy to use dovetail saddle gauges in several pitches. I can't think of the last time I used the Shinwa for marking dovetails. BTW, I have several shop made dovetail marking gauges as well, like the Shinwa they do not get used because the LV ones work so well.

ken

[Mike Henderson]

For dovetails, get a dovetail saddle marker, not a sliding bevel gauge.

Mike

[Darrell LaRue]

FWIW, many people do not use any layout when cutting dovetails. They will saw the pins or tails by eye and then lay out the second part from the first


I'm one of those people. My take on dovetails is that they are just a Good/Fast/Cheap way of joining wood together. I generally cut the tails by eye and use them as a template for the pins. As others have pointed out, most people can't tell the difference between machine and hand cut anyways, so slightly random DT shapes are not a big deal.

Darrell

[Andrew Pitonyak]

For dovetails, get a dovetail saddle marker, not a sliding bevel gauge.

Mike

Agreed

For example, I have both of these:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42936,50298&p=49424
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=73357

Never used the LN version
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/measuring-marking-dovetail-marker-

http://www.sterlingtoolworks.com/saddle-square/
http://www.woodjoytools.com/layout/
http://www.garrettwade.com/brass-dovetail-marker.html

You get the idea!

[steven c newman]

Hmm, what I use..
333002
I use an old dovetail bit to mark the angle, for one pin/tail. The two Stanley squares to mark line with that pencil. Chisels for chopping waste, after the saw is done.
333003
Nothing real fancy about the saw...
333004
I just have to remember which side of the line to use the saw on...
333005
Sometimes, I even get it right....

[lowell holmes]

I use a Paul Sellers template. Maybe that's because I learned to make dovetails in one of his classes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYpWldwGHFY

It's easy to make, I just went home and made one.

[Derek Cohen]

I use a dovetail marker as I like to make skinny ("London") dovetails, and these need to be marked and sawn with some accuracy. Wide dovetails have a lot more room for variations.

One can mark dovetails with a sliding bevel. However, a good dovetail marker enables one to mark the entire side in one pencil stroke - the dovetail angle and the top lines are continuous. This makes it easier to saw accurately. Maintaining a square top line is, in fact, far more important than the dovetail angle.

I use markers that I made out of brass angle. You could make them out of aluminium angle as an alternative.

These are in angles 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, and 1:8. My favourite angle is 1:7.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Dovetailmarkersinbrass_html_48e46b7d.jpg

Article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Dovetailmarkersinbrass.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jeff Ranck]

I made my own many years ago. Then I saw some Joseph Marples dovetail squares at a lumber shop I used to frequent. Bought 'em, use 'em, love 'em.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/joseph_marples_squares.htm

jtk

Hadn't seen those before, but they look way cool.