What Chisels?

[Sean Troy]

I would like to get a set of wood chisels to learn with. I've had a set of cheap Irwin ones that I abused around the shop without ever learning how to properly use them. I have learned some sharpening of the tools lately and would like to move up in quality a bit.

I can't afford top of the line as I just bought a new combo machine but would like something usable. Any suggestions?

[Patrick Chase]

I would like to get a set of wood chisels to learn with. I've had a set of cheap Irwin ones that I abused around the shop without ever learning how to properly use them. I have learned some sharpening of the tools lately and would like to move up in quality a bit.

I can't afford top of the line as I just bought a new combo machine but would like something usable. Any suggestions?

Use the search feature?

The conventional advice for somebody in your situation is "Narex".

[Jeffrey Martel]

I don't know that the Narex would be worth buying if he already has the Irwin chisels. Maybe the next ones to look at would be a 4 piece set of Stanley 750's. Fairly inexpensive at $30ish/chisel, but better quality than the Irwin/Narex ones.

[Brett Luna]

Maybe the next ones to look at would be a 4 piece set of Stanley 750's. Fairly inexpensive at $30ish/chisel, but better quality than the Irwin/Narex ones.

+1 ... but then I'm biased, since I own the Sweethearts. I bought the 8-pc set for my first decent woodworking chisels. I've happily used all of them at one time or another but really, I think the 4-pc set would do almost anyone well for quite a while. I would love to have some higher end bench chisels but the Stanley's make it difficult to justify.

I've never handled them myself but I've heard good things about the Ashley Iles American pattern chisels and they're in the same price range as the 750s.

[steven c newman]

Do you have a Menards store nearby? If so, walk in, pick up the set marked "Bailey" Fairly decent set by Stanley. Runs about $70 or so around this area. They will need tuned up, but seem to be good chisels to learn with.

[Sean Troy]

I see prices are all over the place from 89.00 on up for the same thing. Seems 119.00 is the average price if they are in stock. Many places out. Is 30 degree sound right for the bevel and is a micro bevel that important? If so, at what degree is the micro bevel set? Thanks, Sean

[Pat Barry]

I would like to get a set of wood chisels to learn with. I've had a set of cheap Irwin ones that I abused around the shop without ever learning how to properly use them. I have learned some sharpening of the tools lately and would like to move up in quality a bit.

I can't afford top of the line as I just bought a new combo machine but would like something usable. Any suggestions?
I just bought the set of 7 Narex chisels from LV and like them so far. They worked pretty weel right out of the box

[Brett Luna]

I see prices are all over the place from 89.00 on up for the same thing. Seems 119.00 is the average price if they are in stock. Many places out. Is 30 degree sound right for the bevel and is a micro bevel that important? If so, at what degree is the micro bevel set? Thanks, Sean

A 30° bevel is pretty common, with 25° showing up on some larger chisels. A micro bevel...about 2 degrees steeper than the primary bevel...makes the edge just a little stronger and allows you to refresh the edge without reworking the entire primary bevel. Not everyone uses one, though.

[David Eisenhauer]

A fairly common sharpening method is to put a 25 deg main bevel on the blade, then add in a small (short) micro 30 deg bevel. If you are not using the chisels with a hammer/mallet and working with standard to softer woods, the 25 deg bevel will be good. The 30 deg is probably better for chopping and/or hard wood. Maybe try a 25 deg main bevel and see how it works. If it is dulling/fracturing quickly, you can always re hone (using your finest stone) and lift the back end of the chisel up a hair when honing to add in a short micro bevel to try. No bevel need be a permanent thing and it is fairly easy to try something different if it is not working.

[Jim Koepke]

Sean,

A lot of the thought toward new chisels depends on your needs and methods.

Some of my chisels are at 15 - 20º and are used solely for paring. For harder use the bevel gets steeper. Since my sharpening is mostly freehand I do not use a secondary bevel. There is nothing wrong with using micro bevels and secondary bevels, it is just that I don't.

Not many of my chisels were bought new. Finding deals on old chisels has allowed me the luxury of having various sets for varying work.

332903

jtk

[Sean Troy]

Sean,

A lot of the thought toward new chisels depends on your needs and methods.

Some of my chisels are at 15 - 20º and are used solely for paring. For harder use the bevel gets steeper. Since my sharpening is mostly freehand I do not use a secondary bevel. There is nothing wrong with using micro bevels and secondary bevels, it is just that I don't.

Not many of my chisels were bought new. Finding deals on old chisels has allowed me the luxury of having various sets for varying work.

332903

jtk

General use and dovetails. I have a mortise machine so I would'nt need a set of mortise chisels.

[Prashun Patel]

Prsonally i would make your irwins work. Then buy individual chisels as you need them. And buy good ones.

I had cheap marples from home depot and bought narexes. They are fine but not so much better than the marples.

[Jim Koepke]

I tend to like long thin chisels for dovetail paring. If you chop out the waste, you may want a heavier bevel edged chisel. I used to chop out the waste, but have converted to using a fret or coping saw.

Narex tend to offer a lot for the cost. I also like my Buck Brothers chisels. There are modern wood handled Buck Brothers chisels available:

These Buck Brothers bench chisels look to be on sale now:

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/Buck-Bros-Bench-Chisels-p/c007301-base.htm?1=1&CartID=0

These bench chisels appear to be for paring and light chopping.

This is the full page of Buck Products:

http://www.CraftsmanStudio.com/category-s/262.htm

I do not have experience with these.

They are about the same hardness as Narex, a few Rc points below Lie Nielsen hardness. The are also quite a few dollars less than Lie Nielsen.

The are a few dollars less than the Narex.

The Craftsman Studio price on Lie Nielsen is higher than on the Lie Nielsen site.

jtk

[David Eisenhauer]

What Prashun says. Use what you have, try different sharpening angles, try no micro - yes micro bevels, try paring only - mallet chopping and see what develops on a less expensive set of chisels. Then save your $ and buy one good chisel at a time (if $ is tight) in the size you need for a particular task/project. Some of the chisels in the various sets are not hardly used at all (if any) compared to other sizes. You (all of us) need to work with chisels a while to get a feel for what handle size/shape you like, what length works for what task, and see what your chisel work in general develops into being. Then it is worth to buy good chisels with a plan based on experience. It is easy for new guys to buy lots of tools as the $ becomes available without, perhaps, quite enough hands-on experience to know what works for them. If that is not you, then my appology for jumping in.

[Archie England]

Like you, I'd started with Irwin chisels and couldn't wait to get better ones. Well, I did; I found a used set of LN A2 chisels (for a sweet price). Only then did I realize both what I had gained and lost (since I sold my Irwins to a friend). The Irwins had O1 blades, sharpened quickly (and easily) on my Norton stones, and cut well. They were longer, less balanced, and did not last as long as the LNs. The LNs have perfect balance (IMO), stay sharper longer, and don't break down as quickly when pounding out mortises or dovetails. The LNs, however, didn't sharpen as quickly on the Nortons (so I bought better stones) and took longer to get the edge as sharp as the O1. In the end, I like O1 better than A2; I like the LN style and balance better than lower end Irwins, etc.

So, check out these various components before you indulge in a full set--steel types (O1, A2, PMV11, etc.), sharpening characteristics (which determines the sharpening tools), and handling (individual preference, here). Then buy what you need; I tend to use the lower sizes much more often than the larger ones. For instance, I can get by with an occasional 3/4 or 1" but seldom "need" a 1.25, 1.5, or 2" blade--the need for these larger blades is just not as often for my hobby work (but it's convenient to have them when needed). So, purchase some chisels in the 1/8 through 3/4 size and perhaps purchase different brands of the same size (though this is not really necessary).

(Be sure to have the right sharpening medium for the steel you purchase, too.)

[lowell holmes]

Well,

Contrary to the popular opinion here, I found the blue handled chisels to be good. I still have mine. Keep them sharp and they will do the job.

Having said that, I favor the Lie Nielsens. I also have Ray Iles mortise and Narex mortise chisels. I also have Narex crank shaft paring chisels. They are wicked sharp and do a nice job.

[Sean Troy]

Lot's of very helpful information. Thank you all.

[Ray Selinger]

Chisels aren't just used for chopping, anytime you need a sharp pointy thing they come in handy. I have a set of blue handled English Stanley 5002s, the better finished black handled 5001 were Stanley's most expensive at the time. They are like the Marples Blue Chip that everyone talks about. Out of a K-Mart clearance bin I found a black handled Sandvik 1 1/4". These chisels had thin blades and hollow plastic handles, not something I thought of as being high end at the time. I found I was always grabbing it, the balance was so much better I could do better work. I need all the help I can get. Guess what I look for in a chisel now.

Used and new chisels both need sharpening, but used also need shaping as well. I haven't found a quick and easy way to shape without the purchase of expensive wet grinder.

[steven c newman]

Sometimes a set just kind of grows on you..
332943
maybe half of my wood handled ones...

[Chris Hachet]

Prsonally i would make your irwins work. Then buy individual chisels as you need them. And buy good ones.

I had cheap marples from home depot and bought narexes. They are fine but not so much better than the marples.

This. Your woodworking will tell you what to buy....

[Chris Hachet]

Sometimes a set just kind of grows on you..
332943
maybe half of my wood handled ones...

I have worked in Steven's shop....these are nice and sharp, and work just fine!

[lowell holmes]

I have worked in Steven's shop....these are nice and sharp, and work just fine!

My Lie Nielsens are light years ahead of my antique Stanleys.

[steven c newman]

Might want to try to catch them up ? Doesn't take all that long......just a tiny bit of elbow grease is all that is needed....

[paul cottingham]

Honestly, if you want a set, buy Narex; the small set. I am a hand tool mood worker for the most part, and the Narex would have served me fine forever if it wasn't for my screwed up hands, the balance on them is terrible for me. So I bought some of the new ones from LV, they are perfect for me. But honestly, if I had to pick just one, I would have bought just a 1/2" LV. I honestly believe I could do almost everything I need with just that one tool.

[Sean Troy]

I'm going to practice tuning up the old ones and probably get a set of the four I've used the most. 1/4,1/2, 3/4 and maybe an inch.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have worked in Steven's shop....these are nice and sharp, and work just fine!

Crawling out to his shop is on my list of things that I just have to do. Might convince him to give me some pointers and just generally talk wood and life.

[Ray Bohn]

"I am a hand tool mood worker for the most part..."

Paul,

Perfect description of my woodworking. Pain determines my mood. Can't wait to use your line.

Thanks
Ray

[steven c newman]

Hitch a ride with Chris. Welcome anytime. 1st weekend in April, though, I'll be out of state, otherwise, come on over.

[Matt Lau]

Sean,

I'm going to agree with Prashun on this one. Use your Irwins and get a good sharpening system (stones, mechanical, etc).
Try handling a number of different chisels.

I recommend getting one chisel in your favorite size. Then, get more as needed.

On my end, here's my limited experience--anyone else here could tell you more:
1. Cheap Japan Woodworker chisels-- gets sharp, a bit brittle, easy to sharpen.
2. Old carbon steel--Greenlee, 18th Cen Sorby, Bucks, Witherby, Berg--all over the place. Tend to take a great edge. Some can be very hard to sharpen. Berg pretty easy to sharpen.
3. Hida Tool-- Masashige-- get's really sharp and pretty tough stuff. I bought a chewed up set second hand. Easy to sharpen
4. Narex mortise chisel-- "gummy" softish steel. Tough. Reasonably well made. Inexpensive. I bought another.
5. Luthier's merchantile chisel-- Gummy steel. Steel is decent--pretty soft, but cuts surprisingly well. Horrible handles. Only kept a 2mm chisel, and returned a 18 mm chisel.
6. Lee Valley PMVII--- Great handles. Great steel. Personally, I didn't see the point of the 1/8" chisel I bought, so returned it. Personally, I think that you'd really love these.
7. Koyamaichi chisels--Stu's "New Year Special Box"-- GREAT chisels. handles not as nice for paring as the LV ones, but these are well made and feel great in the hand. The edge is remarkably tough, and can get really sharp easily.
8. Blue Spruce paring chisel 3/4"-- great handle, maybe a bit heavy; perfectly balanced. Not impressed with the steel--good steel, but not *amazing* like the Koyamaichi.

Sean, if you can stretch your budget, I'd recommend getting a 1/2" or 3/4" LV chisel (O1 or PMVII).
Otherwise, you may consider getting some from Stu (remarkably excellent priced and great packaging).
You may also want to consider Ashley Isles chisels (never used them, but heard good stuff about them).

I ordering some chisels recommended by Stan. If they're great (and they likely will be, based on Stan's reputation), I'll try to do a review (not as well done as Derek Cohen's, but hey!).

-Matt

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Hitch a ride with Chris. Welcome anytime. 1st weekend in April, though, I'll be out of state, otherwise, come on over.

As always Mr. Newman, you are generous.... I will do so... Well, I will make it out.