Router Table hinged at back, prop up to adjust - Better than a lift?

[Doug Hobkirk]

Somewhere I saw a video comparing how long it takes to change a router bit and adjust it: one router table had a tilt-top with a support strut, the other a typical lift. The tilt-top seemed much easier and faster.

But you guys KNOW THINGS! What say you?

Also, any problem doing this myself? I'd use two quality door hinges and initially one (two, if needed) strut rod supports. I might add a weight-supporting strut like on a minivan rear door, but that's down the road.

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I am finishing my router table - phenolic top, Shop Vac enclosed, dust fittings on fence, fancy fence, Bosch router, lift. (Pictures soon)
I've figured out how to get the vac ducting to work with a hinged top, and I find it easier to set the bit height with the top at about 30 degrees (my body doesn't bend so well).

Thanks

[ken masoumi]

Doug,I saw a router lift like the one you are describing on Dowelmax site but's just a router table top , there's no stand,Here's a picture of it and the link:

http://www.dowelmax.com/router-table-lift.html
http://www.dowelmax.com/images/Router-Lift-Exploded.jpg

[Rick Lizek]

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-8912-shop-made-router-lift

The best of both worlds...

[Walter Plummer]

Maybe this one? http://www.dowelmax.com/

[Scott Brandstetter]

Hello Doug. In the past I had a tilt top table for my router but just recently got away from it. When I lifter the table to change the blade, the router and the "square plexiglass" would pop loose. I ended up building a new table with an open front. I bought a fitting for my router that tightens with an allen wrench. I bought a `12 inch allen wrench so when I need to change bits, I look through the top, loosen the fitting, change bits, and tighten. So quick I couldn't imagine doing in any faster. I always wanted to get a lift but not sure it would be any faster and know for sure it's a lot more expensive than my method.

[Walter Plummer]

Sorry. I also wanted to say I have not used a tilting top but I like it a lot. Just hit enter to quick.

[Art Mann]

I have built several router tables and all but one of them have a hinged top. There are many reasons for doing so and few if any disadvantages. I couldn't help but laugh hysterically at the video of the guy from Dowelmax who called his "new innovation" a router lift. It is neither a new concept nor is it a router lift. I used piano hinges on mine.

[Keith Weber]

I replaced an old pop-out aluminum router plate with a Mast-R-Lift II router lift and it increased the pleasure of using my router table tenfold. I can't picture a tilt top being easier to use than one of those things. Would it not be a pain to make a micro adjustment to the height of the bit, if the top were tilted, and you couldn't lay a height gauge or reference board flat on the table next to the bit? The only thing I have to do under the cabinet now is change the speed of my PC router. That only takes a few seconds to reach under and change.

[glenn bradley]

The method of keeping the plate in place during tilt is the main issue. Most of the plans I see with tilt tops do not use plates or changeable inserts. I'm not married to plates (round or squared) but, I don't know how you would have changeable inserts elegantly without one of some kind and those are a must in my work.

If your woodworking is OK with a router attached to the top and the bit change procedure including dropping the motor every time (the requires a motor removal mechanism that does not require rotation; cord gets wound up DAMHIKT) you're good to go. It is an inexpensive, easily built method that allows you to remove the motor without having to squat. Those are the primary advantages for me.

P.s. I now use a lift.

[Doug Hobkirk]

I replaced an old pop-out aluminum router plate with a Mast-R-Lift II router lift and it increased the pleasure of using my router table tenfold. I can't picture a tilt top being easier to use than one of those things. Would it not be a pain to make a micro adjustment to the height of the bit, if the top were tilted, and you couldn't lay a height gauge or reference board flat on the table next to the bit? The only thing I have to do under the cabinet now is change the speed of my PC router. That only takes a few seconds to reach under and change.

I checked out Jessem's video.

Wow! It's about 6 lightyears more advanced than whatever I have that I got maybe 15 years ago.

The way it allows lifting the router so the body is flush with the top, the impressive ability to fine-tune the height - Wow!
The clamping system is remarkable. It makes it very easy to mount any router and seemingly it would be easy to change to another router.
The posts, plate, threaded components - everything looks exquisite


Wow! It's $365!

Although I've got to admit I think it's probably worth it - it represents lots of good engineering and has very impressive execution. Kudos to Jessem.
But it's out of my budget. But Keith, if Jessem replaces the II with an improved III model, I would be glad to adopt your II and treat it with love.



Thanks for your post. I learned, which is why I come to this forum.

[Doug Hobkirk]

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-8912-shop-made-router-lift

The best of both worlds...

Remarkable! This solution really is impressive:

a great lift that's attached solidly to the base
hinged top that lifts off to expose the top of the router
and now the top doesn't have a heavy router / plate / lift attached to it, so it doesn't weigh a lot.


Thanks a lot Rick - you might have just cost me another ten (20?) hours. I will be examining my current setup when I hit the shop to see if I can adapt what I have.

[Art Mann]

Take a look at the router plate in this link: https://www.kregtool.com/store/c35/router-table-systems/p147/precision-router-table-insert-plate--undrilled/

It is designed to clamp to the table so that it doesn't move when the table is tilted. It provides a way to make the plate precisely flat with respect to the table with no precision routing. You can get the plate pre-drilled for lots of different models of routers. My router has a plunge base and provdes a way to adjust the height from above the table. If your router won't do that, it wouldn't be very difficult to just prop the top up at an angle and mount bits and adjust the router in the normal way (like in the Dowelmax video.

[Steve Peterson]

I have an Incra PRL-V2 that has a speed handle for lifting the router with a single 1/4 turn of a handle. It is spring loaded to help with the lifting. Incra router lifts are near clones of the Woodpeckers with the added benefit of magnetic inserts.

Steve