Rough Lumber Stability Question 8/4 stock

[Lincoln Myers]

I am starting a project, a trundle bed, using rough 8/4 poplar and 4/4 maple stock. This is my first project using rough lumber. I had one edge straight-line-ripped at the hardwood supplier.

My question is what is the preferred/ideal/best way to work this lumber in terms of letting it acclimate to its' ultimate destination (my son's bedroom)?

Do I cut it to approx. length, then sticker it in the house for x period of time? Or should I joint and plane it also before putting it inside for x period of time? How long before final milling? Or some other order of operations?

Any suggestions and tips are greatly appreciated.

[Jim Becker]

What's most important is to let the material acclimate to your shop before you start milling and building. Once you transfer the finished project to the bedroom, it will acclimate to that environment as a unit. I really do recommend that you invest in a moisture meter if you don't already have one to help you check stock in the shop and as you are buying it, too. It helps you better judge the status of MC for a project's material.

[Tony Pearson]

Since you have indicated that you acquired the wood from a hardwood dealer, I assume that the wood has been kiln dried. If so, I would allow the entire batch to acclimate in the shop for period of time, say a couple of months. Then mill the material, make the product and move it into it's new environment.

BTW I'm not indicating that the above represents the correct way, it is simply the method I use in Florida which is a very humid climate. I've not experienced any difficulties with significant wood movement.

Good luck!

Tony:D

[Tom Gattiker]

I thought the rule of thumb was something like 1 week of acclimation time (in the shop) for each inch of thikcness. So for 8/4 stock, it would be 2 weeks or 3 to be safe. (for most parts of the country at least) I am not an expert, this is just seems to be the general consensus among creek/ponders.

Something to watch: You might find that those straight line rips are no longer striaght after acclimiatization. If so, you'll need to hit the a few licks with a plane or a jointer.

[Byron Trantham]

Originally posted by Jim Becker
I really do recommend that you invest in a moisture meter if you don't already have one to help you check stock in the shop and as you are buying it, too.

Jim, do you have a recomendation for a meter? Pin? No pin? Brand? I've been looking at them for a while now and frankly find the prospect of buying one intimidating. they range from $30-$300. I think that most of us would use it in frequently so the cost is an issue but then so are the results (accuracy).:rolleyes:

[Jim Becker]

Originally posted by Byron Trantham
Jim, do you have a recomendation for a meter? Pin? No pin? Brand?

I have the older Wagner pinless, but if I were buying today, I believe I'd probably pick up the Mini Ligno. It's a pin-type and would be better for all the rough lumber I'm monitoring. That being said, if I could have both pinned and pinless...and if I get a Mini-Ligno, I will have that...it would be ideal. There are meters with both, but they are rare and probably expensive.

[Byron Trantham]

That's a new one on me. Who sells it? How much?:confused:

[Ken Salisbury]

Originally posted by Byron Trantham
That's a new one on me. Who sells it? How much?:confused:

Byron --- Amazon.com (search for Lignomat) -- less than $100 ---- I bought one about a month ago - Love it.

Oh heck --- better yet just click here:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224D8/qid=1055432634/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/103-9256916-9692631?v=glance&s=home-garden&n=507846

[Glenn Clabo]

Different way that I've used for a long time.

I always skim plane the rough cut... for two reasons. One, I get a better view of the wood but, here is the second reason...

To tell whether or not the wood has reached equilibrium in the workshop (which is what's really important because you can't get it dryer than the kiln did anyway) take successive thickness measurements of the same piece of wood. Make sure you mark the exact place where your measurements are taken and after a few weeks you'll see it stabilize. A micrometer or a dial caliper will work.

Stabilizing your shops humidity is also a key. If your environment has large fluxuations...you're doomed. My shops in the basement so I just run a dehumidifier all the time and keep it about the same humidity...which I've never actually measured.

Just an old machinists way of working with wood that has worked for me for many years.