Stabilizing Pen Blanks

[Sparky Paessler]

I tried my hand at stabilizing some pen blanks this weekend. I had some maple burl that I cut up and drilled for some statesman pens. I then rigged up a jar to my vacuum pump and put some thinned poly in it with the pen blanks. I pulled about 22 inches on the jar and let it sit until the blanks sunk to the bottom. I then let it sit 24 hours and took the blanks out to dry. Will turn some this week and see how they do.

[Stuart Johnson]

Very interesting. Did you have any concern about the jar imploding? I've been going to try something similar using Nelsonite with some added dye but haven't figured out what would be best for holding pieces.

[Charles E. Martin V]

I'm also surprised you didn't split a seam or something. Cool set-up.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Wow, with blanks like those, I hope they turn out!!

[Sparky Paessler]

I used an old mason jar, Very heavy duty! Never worried about it imploding.

[Bill Grumbine]

Hi Sparky

I used to do something similar to this years ago with spalted maple pen blanks. Before I started, the failure rate was over 90% from soft punky wood breaking. Once I started, I reduced failures to less than 5%.

The big difference was that I used Minwax Wood Hardener, which is used for fixing rotted structural wood. Minwax is different from other companies selling the same product in that one may buy the hardener separately from the filler (Bondo) rather than as a kit. I did not use a vacuum either. The wood was porous enough that it soaked all the way through. Within a couple of days all the blanks in the jar would be at the bottom, and I knew they were ready to dry.

Good luck with your experiment. I will be interested to see how it works out.

Bill

[John Shuk]

I can vouch for the Minwax wood hardener as well. It is very thin and soaks in with little effort. I made some great pens from blanks treated this way and I have a big chunk that I did the same thing to and am waiting for the day when I'm confident enough to do the blank justice. I'd love to see the results of this.

[Tom Seaman]

Do you have any concerns about movement/shrinkage/expansion/etc. during the stabilization process? It seems that drilling before stabilizing might affect the hole enough to make inserting the tube problematic. Just curious, since I hope to try this someday, and drilling first seems more efficient if it works.

[Sparky Paessler]

Do you have any concerns about movement/shrinkage/expansion/etc. during the stabilization process? It seems that drilling before stabilizing might affect the hole enough to make inserting the tube problematic. Just curious, since I hope to try this someday, and drilling first seems more efficient if it works.

I will glue in some of the tubes tonight and post the results. I have turned some pens out of stabilised wood before and the thing that I like about it is the finish is all through the wood and doesn't wear off. I just polish them up like you would a plastic blank.

[Tom Stover]

I use a one gallon pickle jar and an evacuation pump for air conditioners and have never had a problem. I have used acetone and plexiglass, thinned rotted wood hardner from bondo, and thinned poly. All of them did a good job but I think the acetone/plexi was a little better.

[Rob Littleton]

Hi Sparky

I used to do something similar to this years ago with spalted maple pen blanks. Before I started, the failure rate was over 90% from soft punky wood breaking. Once I started, I reduced failures to less than 5%.

The big difference was that I used Minwax Wood Hardener, which is used for fixing rotted structural wood. Minwax is different from other companies selling the same product in that one may buy the hardener separately from the filler (Bondo) rather than as a kit. I did not use a vacuum either. The wood was porous enough that it soaked all the way through. Within a couple of days all the blanks in the jar would be at the bottom, and I knew they were ready to dry.

Good luck with your experiment. I will be interested to see how it works out.

Bill
Bill, could you just leave the wood hardner is the jar and re use it or was it a one time thing? I am interested in this very much and am gonna order some wood hardner this week. Thanks

[Sparky Paessler]

Well I glued in the tubes last night. There did not seem to be any expansion or shrinkage in the blanks. The tubes fit just like they do on regular blanks. Got the ends milled and ready to turn but ran out of time so will turn them tonight and post pictures.

[Fred Ray]

Hi Sparky

I used to do something similar to this years ago with spalted maple pen blanks. Before I started, the failure rate was over 90% from soft punky wood breaking. Once I started, I reduced failures to less than 5%.

The big difference was that I used Minwax Wood Hardener, which is used for fixing rotted structural wood. Minwax is different from other companies selling the same product in that one may buy the hardener separately from the filler (Bondo) rather than as a kit. I did not use a vacuum either. The wood was porous enough that it soaked all the way through. Within a couple of days all the blanks in the jar would be at the bottom, and I knew they were ready to dry.

Good luck with your experiment. I will be interested to see how it works out.

Bill

Just a note to avoid possible confusion - Bondo now makes a one step (no hardener required) wood hardener. Appears to be an acrylic/acetone solution much like the one Minwax sells. I have found it just in the last year at my local Lowe's here in the sunny south. Sells for $6.95 for a 14 ounce can. I have used it in a vacuum setup like Sparky's for pen blanks with pretty good success. Yes you can leave it in the vacuum jar for the short term to do more blanks. I just kept adding fresh stuff as needed. At one point I felt it was getting a little thick - Thinned with acetone, and kept trucking.

[Sparky Paessler]

Well I turned the pens and it went really well. I did not have any problem with tearout. The wood sliced right off using a skew and left a very smooth surface. Did not dry sand very well (clogged up the paper) so I wet sanded it starting with 320. Overall I am very pleased with the results. I might try the wood hardener next time to see how it works. :D

[Jim Ketron]

Very Nice pens Sparky!

Are those cut offs of the burl you showed a few weeks back?

[Sparky Paessler]

Very Nice pens Sparky!

Are those cut offs of the burl you showed a few weeks back?


They sure are Jim. I cut a few blanks off one end. Real pleased with how they came out.

[Bill Grumbine]

Bill, could you just leave the wood hardner is the jar and re use it or was it a one time thing? I am interested in this very much and am gonna order some wood hardner this week. Thanks

Hi Rob

I left the hardener in the jar and used it over and over again, adding to it as the volume decreased. It does not get weaker, but rather is absorbed, so as long as it does not dry out, you are fine with using it over and over.

Bill