Fun w/ My New McNaughton Center Saver

[Mike Goetzke]

I'm try'n hard to become a turner. Thought one way would be to get more practice from more bowl blanks so the boss gave me to OK to get a McNaughton. Before attempting to use the jig I read a lot and watched as many videos I could find. For a beginner Dale Bonertz gave great technique on how to set up jig and how to plan your entry etc. I also bought the Mahoney video but that is basically watching an expert do his thing.

I would say my first attempt was a successful failure. I cored out a bowl but not thinking it out well I forgot to add material for the smaller bowl tenon:



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Wood%20Turning/Mcnaughton%20Center%20Saver/IMG_1238_zps4awvwtvo.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mbg/media/Wood%20Turning/Mcnaughton%20Center%20Saver/IMG_1238_zps4awvwtvo.jpg.html)

So tonight I made my second go at it and I got two good roughed out bowls!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Wood%20Turning/Mcnaughton%20Center%20Saver/IMG_1314_zpskfmpbkci.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mbg/media/Wood%20Turning/Mcnaughton%20Center%20Saver/IMG_1314_zpskfmpbkci.jpg.html)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Wood%20Turning/Mcnaughton%20Center%20Saver/IMG_1313_zps8suwsyof.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mbg/media/Wood%20Turning/Mcnaughton%20Center%20Saver/IMG_1313_zps8suwsyof.jpg.html)





:D

[Dale Bonertz]

Congrats you're on your way. Do ten in succession as quick as time will allow and you will have a pretty good feel for the tool.

[Thom Sturgill]

Congrats you're on your way. Do ten in succession as quick as time will allow and you will have a pretty good feel for the tool.


That is just what I need to do! Only used mine three times since I bought it.

[Pat Scott]

It's fun to get an extra bowl or two instead of shavings, isn't it? Remember to allow for the tenon thickness in your blanks so your roughouts are a consistent thickness all the way around. You can even go a bit thinner in the bottom and be OK. Invariably I don't core deep enough (fear of making a funnel maybe?), and have to use my bowl gouge to even things out. I always use a gouge anyway to take a skimming cut on the inside because it's a lot easier and faster to put Anchorseal on a smooth surface then a rough surface.

[Bob Bergstrom]

We certainly have enough dead ash around Chicago to practice on. I polished out my blades with my close quarter sander and use we-40 as a lubricant. I put it in a spray bottle from a gallon can. I spray directly into the opening when the blande starts to curve toward the bottom third. Paraffin rubbed on a hot blade works also. Dale's video is the best explanation I've seen. As he says, find a log and core as many blanks as you can. The learning curve will be easier if you do them in succession. Good to see you using that horse power on that Powermatic!

[David Delo]

Way to go Mike, looking good for your first couple of cores. We're doing a live demo comparison of the Oneway and McNaughton at our next chapter meeting in March.

[Mike Goetzke]

We certainly have enough dead ash around Chicago to practice on. I polished out my blades with my close quarter sander and use we-40 as a lubricant. I put it in a spray bottle from a gallon can. I spray directly into the opening when the blande starts to curve toward the bottom third. Paraffin rubbed on a hot blade works also. Dale's video is the best explanation I've seen. As he says, find a log and core as many blanks as you can. The learning curve will be easier if you do them in succession. Good to see you using that horse power on that Powermatic!

Thanks for the hints. I did get a little squeal and needed to widen the opening a little. Will definitely try you tricks. Per Dale's suggestion I did prepare 8 bowl blanks to practice on just hard to get turning time. Maybe I should turn the bottom and tenon on all blanks first and then core them all at one time.

One thing I forgot to mention I see Dale B. uses a card to sharpen the cutter on these tools. Does anyone have a source for this?

Thanks for all the great info!


Mike

[Ralph Lindberg]

Something I do (I forget who I stole this idea from). On the face of the starting blank I drill a 2-1/8 hole about a 1/4 inch deep. This allows me to grab the core in an expanding 2" (#2/50mm) chuck to put the tenon on the core.

[Steve Mawson]

One thing I forgot to mention I see Dale B. uses a card to sharpen the cutter on these tools. Does anyone have a source for this?

Thanks for all the great info!


Mike

D-Way has some nice ones, however there are lots of places that have them any more.

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Mike,
Well done on the cores. You do not have to worry about the tenons on the smaller cores if you drill a big recess for the Chuck jaws to grab so you can finess the outside thickness and make the tenon on your rough outs...

I think you would be happy with the Trend Sharpening kit. It includes the 300 / 600 card and the small flat / half round diamond file, a bottle of sharpening fluid and a DVD. Great for turning tools and Forstner bits, router bits etc.

http://www.trend-uk.com/product/u*dws_kit_c/

It sells for about $75 at the wood shows.
Peter F.

[Reed Gray]

Ralph, I think you stole it from me, fair and square.... I also have a clip up on You Tube on using the McNasty.... The cause for the binding of the blades in the cuts is that it always drifts to the outside of the kerf as you core. Not a problem on a small core, but big problem on larger cores. This is why you have to open up the cut as you core deeper. The reason for the 'drift' (Kel does not agree with me about this, but last time I talked to Mike Mahoney he said 'Hmm, you may have a point there') is that the last little bit of the blade, where the spear point is, goes straight rather than following the perfect arc of a circle. The rest of the curve is pretty good, and it used to be a big problem in earlier versions of the blades. I have taken a couple of blades and bent the tip in slightly, and one actually drifts to the inside of the cut rather than the outside. The silver blades may be a cast stainless steel, which does not bend well, but not positive on that.

For sharpening, use the coarsest card you can find, which is generally 220. You want a heavy burr because you are doing a roughing scraping cut. You don't want a dainty finish cut burr.

robo hippy

[Mike Goetzke]

Ralph, I think you stole it from me, fair and square.... I also have a clip up on You Tube on using the McNasty.... The cause for the binding of the blades in the cuts is that it always drifts to the outside of the kerf as you core. Not a problem on a small core, but big problem on larger cores. This is why you have to open up the cut as you core deeper. The reason for the 'drift' (Kel does not agree with me about this, but last time I talked to Mike Mahoney he said 'Hmm, you may have a point there') is that the last little bit of the blade, where the spear point is, goes straight rather than following the perfect arc of a circle. The rest of the curve is pretty good, and it used to be a big problem in earlier versions of the blades. I have taken a couple of blades and bent the tip in slightly, and one actually drifts to the inside of the cut rather than the outside. The silver blades may be a cast stainless steel, which does not bend well, but not positive on that.

For sharpening, use the coarsest card you can find, which is generally 220. You want a heavy burr because you are doing a roughing scraping cut. You don't want a dainty finish cut burr.

robo hippy

Reed - went and re-watched your video even through the out takes. Like many suggested and you showed I will try the drilled mortise next time. I see you use a laser on most of your coring in the video but on some you don't. Do you (or other experienced turners that core) feel a laser is necessary or beneficial?

Thanks,

Mike

[Reed Gray]

I think the laser is really helpful when starting out. Main reason as a Washington turner commented to me once is 'seems like I am always 2 inches too deep, or 2 inches too shallow'. Learning to aim is the difficult part, which is why when instruction, both Dale and I hold the blade above the planned cut. This gives a visual reference. The laser tells you where the tip is, so you know before hand if you need to go deeper or more shallow. I use the laser also for when I do hollowing. I do like Kel.s coring blades for roughing out the inside of hollow forms, so can switch the laser back and forth. The Monster articulated hollowing tool people used to make a bracket so their laser pointer could work with the McNaughton.

robo hippy

[Peter Fabricius]

Here is a picture of the bracket I made to hold the Monster Laser on the McNasty handle...

I hope you make one, Mike.

Peter F.

[Wendell Steele]

Here are your sharpening cards http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Diamond-Card-Sized-Sharpener-P19.aspx?gclid=Cj0KEQiAu9q2BRDq3MDbvOL1yaYBEiQAD6q oBkWeSOtS-xaWVmxXTo4c2CdqsAeYhEIDApwSPe6GggEaAhBR8P8HAQ