Building a table top for shop

[Sean Troy]

I have a few questions on building a table top. I have some metal legs I would like to use for a rolling table. I was wanting to build a wood top for it and was wondering if 1 1/2 inch thick is ok or should I go 3 " thick. I'm thinking I may want to add an end vise at some time or cabinet makers vise. Another question is the wood type. I have plenty of walnut, cherry or maple for the top. I may have enough oak also. Which wood would better be suited for the top or does it really matter ? Thanks for your input, Sean

[Jerry Miner]

Any of those woods would make a useful table top. 1 1/2" should be fine. I wonder, though about putting a vise on a rolling table---I would want a "non-rolling" option on a table used as a work bench.

[Sean Troy]

I have a non rolling table to use but want the option for a rolling also to move about the shop. The casters will be locking type.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Sean, you don't say what size table you will make but 3" thick could be pretty weighty for a rolling table.


I would want a "non-rolling" option on a table used as a work bench.

Jerry, I guess it depends how one uses a work table. I do almost all my work on rolling carts but I rarely am engaged in hand work. Rolling carts, even with four good brakes, are not stable enough for working involving vigorous lateral forces.

[Mike Heidrick]

I have a Wilton WW vise on a rolling bench. Works great. My table is 1 1/2" ply with laminate top (was a table saw extension table at one time) and a 2X edge. I used maple under the table in the area where I needed to mount the vise. I mounted the rear jaw flush with the 2X face.

[Sean Troy]

I'm thinking about 60 " long and about 24" wide

[Sean Troy]

Sean, you don't say what size table you will make but 3" thick could be pretty weighty for a rolling table.

I wouldn't be doing any hand planing, more assemble type or using my dovetail setup.

Jerry, I guess it depends how one uses a work table. I do almost all my work on rolling carts but I rarely am engaged in hand work. Rolling carts, even with four good brakes, are not stable enough for working involving vigorous lateral forces.

I wouldn't be doing any hand planing, more assemble type or using my dovetail setup.

[Matthew Hills]

I wouldn't be doing any hand planing, more assemble type or using my dovetail setup.

Some ideas for directions you can go with a table:

- outfeed (smooth, grooves for sleds)
- assembly (*flat*, resistant to glue; take a look at torsion-box structures)
- sanding (have seen some designed to help with dust collection)
- MFT-style (bore hole grid to work with track systems and other hold-downs for use with powered hand tools)
- general utility (rolling, convenient height for moving workpieces to machines; maybe include an outlet strip on the side; and a mount hole for a lamp)

Sheet-good tops, with hardwood trim, sound like a good option for most of these.
The Wood Whisperer has a good video on torsion-box assembly table: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/?att=project&atid=2631

If using with your dovetail jig, how high do you want it? and how will you clamp your jig to the bench?

Matt

[Yonak Hawkins]

Some ideas for directions you can go with a table:

- outfeed (smooth, grooves for sleds)
- assembly (*flat*, resistant to glue; take a look at torsion-box structures)
- sanding (have seen some designed to help with dust collection)
- MFT-style (bore hole grid to work with track systems and other hold-downs for use with powered hand tools)
- general utility (rolling, convenient height for moving workpieces to machines; maybe include an outlet strip on the side; and a mount hole for a lamp)

Sheet-good tops, with hardwood trim, sound like a good option for most of these.
The Wood Whisperer has a good video on torsion-box assembly table: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/?att=project&atid=2631

If using with your dovetail jig, how high do you want it? and how will you clamp your jig to the bench?

Matt

These are all excellent thoughts to keep in mind. Also, trying to keep as many work areas (stationary benches, table saw, jointer, other rolling carts, etc.) similar heights will help make the cart's use more flexible. You may wish to devise a way to attach the cart to the outfeed side of your saw and jointer (even the planer, although the planer table height is, of course, variable). I use rolling carts for both infeed and outfeed for support for very long boards.

[Keith Weber]

Sean, you don't say what size table you will make but 3" thick could be pretty weighty for a rolling table.

I have a different opinion on the weight issue. A 3" top that is 24" x 60" would weigh roughly 100 lbs., depending on the wood species. While that might be a lot of weight with cheap 2" wheels on carpet, with better-quality, larger wheels on smooth concrete, that would be nothing. I move around about 4 machines in the 1200-1400 lb. range on an almost level concrete floor with good 5" casters, and they move with ease. Obviously, a clean floor free of debris helps too. The larger the wheels, the rougher the terrain it will handle. Trying to move those same machines using my HF engine hoist with it's cheap, small casters is an entirely different story. On a smaller note, my little mobile welding table (26" x 40") weighs about 350 lbs. and I find that it's effortless to move that around, yet it has enough mass that it stays put when I'm not trying to move it. If you have a vise on your bench, you want enough mass that the bench isn't going to be jumping around on you. Weight is good -- providing that you don't have to lift it.

That said, I might shy away from the 3" top for aesthetic reasons. If your metal legs aren't overly beefy, the 3" thick top might look a little clunky. A lot of maple-top benches in the size that you're talking about have a 1-3/4" thick top on them. To me, they have nice proportions. I think Sears/Craftsman sells maple tops in that thickness. If, however, you've got beefy legs, then a 3" top would work great as well (and give you some extra mass).

[glenn bradley]

I went with 2 layers of ply for a rolling assembly/outfeed table; one of Baltic birch and one of "Finnish" birch as that is what I had around. Once the ply was laminated together I laminated a piece of tempered hardboard to the top. It has worked out very well for me. the top is offset to reach over some ducting that runs behind the saw (shown here with the table it replaced to the right of it).

332637

The whole top removes and the attachment points are spaced to match the dog hole pattern in my bench creating a large, secure raised surface to work on when required. The old table is removed and you can see the ducting I mentioned in this pic.

332638

I added storage since I tend to always add storage to any base or fixture (scrounged the drawer parts and material for the shop made pulls from the scrap bin :rolleyes:). Frame pieces running between your metal legs may be able to allow you to do this as well. You could also make a "drawered" carcass and perhaps attach it to the metal legs . . . I'm guessing at the format of the legs :).

The dog hole and slot design (stolen from a Shop Notes assembly table article) allow a variety of clamping and hold options for working or assembly.

332636 . 332639

Some people have asked so I will preemptively mention that I avoided the need for miter slot extensions bu making the top set a fat 3/8" below the saw top. For the work I do I find this irregularity a non-issue. Folks who do a lot of sheet goods work would probably want an uninterrupted surface for the ease of moving large panels. The height is closely consistent with other fixtures ion the shop and as you mentioned, this makes whatever you build more useful.