Krenov razee jackplane

[Paul Saffold]

I bought one of the NOS Berg tapered double irons from Lasse Hilbrandt. It is 1&3/4” and the bed is 45 degrees.

I made this jack from red oak. The tote is American sycamore, wedge is walnut, strike button from osage orange and cross pin from white oak. So a real menagerie of woods.

I know oak is not a traditional wood for planes but it was the right size, straight grained, and in my stash. I thought the sycamore with it’s interlocking grain would work for the tote. If I make another toted plane I will change the angle of the tote so it is lower, meaning less upright. This one would be more comfortable with a taller bench. I was not sure how long to make the tenon on the tote so it would be secure. This one is just over 1/2” and I used Patrick’s liquid hide glue on it.

The blade was obviously new and never sharpened. There were burrs on all the edges. The back was flat. The cap iron was wider than the blade and took a bit of filing. While back I bought a deburring wheel for my spare grinder. It really makes quick work of it. Just keep it away from sharpened edges as it will round them over real quick. DAMHIK.

I’m looking forward to seeing the planes others are making for blades from Lasse. I imagine most will be traditional.
Now back to my honey-do list.
A few pictures. The shavings are pine, oak and cherry. The last is after linseed oil.
Comments and constructive criticism welcome.

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[Nicholas Lawrence]

Looks great Paul!

[Jim Belair]

Looks good. I might round over the body some more.

I'm curious what makes this a Krenov razee jack? I didn't know JK made any (or many) toted planes, razee or otherwise.

[lowell holmes]

In James Krenov's book, "The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking", he showed how to make a hand plane using wood and glue. If it wasn't the first article on the subject, it was an early one. The book was published in 1977. His books are woodworking porn. In this book, he showed how he made his pieces. He showed how to make coopered doors in the same book.

[Terry Beadle]

Nice, looks really well made and should be good for a couple hundred years !!

Great job!

[Bill White]

Now what's wrong with that plane? NOTHIN'!
Bill

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

It looks great, I hope it will be a real user and serve you well.

[Jim Belair]

In James Krenov's book, "The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking", he showed how to make a hand plane using wood and glue. If it wasn't the first article on the subject, it was an early one. The book was published in 1977. His books are woodworking porn. In this book, he showed how he made his pieces. He showed how to make coopered doors in the same book.

I have most of his books, just don't associate this style with Krenov. (As opposed to his very distinctive and organic small smoothers and jointers)

[Jim Koepke]

Looks good to me.

My thinking could be wrong but doesn't Krenov style plane refer to one that has the sides laminated to the critical bed parts?

This one seems to hide the lamination work rather well.

This kind of takes the hard work out of making a usable plane.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

My thinking could be wrong but doesn't Krenov style plane refer to one that has the sides laminated to the critical bed parts?


I thought Krenov popularized the use of the pin to hold the wedge. I could be completely wrong as well.

[lowell holmes]

I'm thinking it is the system of making the plane rather than design that the style of the plane. I think Jim nailed it.

[Paul Saffold]

My understanding is Krenov is associated with the planes made by slicing the sides off, cutting the front and back ramp, installing a pivot pin for the wedge to butt against, then gluing it back together. He may or may not have developed the process, but certainly promoted it and taught it. The razee style is just the shape with the lowered back portion with a tote. I have David Finck's book and follow his instructions. I also made a smoother several years ago but rarely use it. It has a 55 degree bed therefore is more work to push. As you can see there is a small chip on the edge already. Red oak is too chippy for this. Next time I'll use something finer grained.

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[Lasse Hilbrandt]

I have a piece of Ipè that I think will be suitable as a sole for a handplane. If i want to build a Krenov style plane I should glue the sole to the body first, and then cut the sides and then the bed parts ?

[Allan Speers]

Looks good to me.

My thinking could be wrong but doesn't Krenov style plane refer to one that has the sides laminated to the critical bed parts?



That's my understanding as well. My first thought when viewing the original post was, "how is that a Krenov design?"

You know: http://waynedraper.com/images/Miscellaneous/Workshop%20&%20Woodworking/Construction%20of%20Wooden%20Plane%20JAlbum/slides/Plane%20Construction%20(1%20of%2029).html


- but I guess there's no strict definition.


(The above is a very well-done tutorial on one man's construction method, BTW.)

[Paul Saffold]

Allen, that's a really good tutorial you posted the link to.

Lasse, ipe would be an excellent sole. There are advantages to each way. Gluing before cutting the parts would be simpler. Gluing the sole on after would look better. Read up on traditional plane making regarding forming the mouth, or opening for, the blade.