Is this Block Plane worth fixing up?

[Brad Root]

So, I finally decided that I needed to get a decent block plane for end-grain. I went hunting on ebay for a low-angle version and got a Millers Falls 56 in very good condition.

In the process, however, I accidentally bid on another plane that I hadn’t even looked at. I won the auction at $4.25 (plus $10 shipping). Suddenly, I found myself with two block planes. The “accidental” plane turned out to be a standard angle Craftsman 3704 BB (a rebrand of the Millers Falls 26, I believe). Unfortunately, I discovered that the lever cap’s lever and the circle that holds it are completely broken off of the cap. Nevertheless, I de-rusted the plane, and the rest of it looks salvageable but not great (see photos).

So here is my question: can this type of plane (clones of the Stanley 9 ½) be used properly without the lever by compensating with extra pressure from the screw, or is the plane fundamentally compromised as is? In other words, is it worth the effort of trying to restore this plane, or should I just consider it a parts donor for a future standard angle block plane?

Thanks in advance.

-Brad

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[Chris Hachet]

Honest answer-Either would be correct. I have a similar plane that has seen about zero use that I fixed up. In a block plane, I like a fine adjustment mechanism that really allows me to dial in a cut-I have a Veritas apron plane, a Lie Nielson Rabbiting block plane, and a vintage Stanley 60 1/2. Were I to be in your shoes, I would probably use the Millers Falls and save any money towards a really good block plane-

Also IMHO you don't need both standard angle and low angle block planes. You can get by with just the low angle. Which is probably why Lie Nielson discontinued the 103 high angle and still sells the 102 low angle.

Good luck and keep us posted. And if your ever in Columbus, Ohio drop by and I will give you a plane like the one shown free of charge...I am too lazy to ship it to you...

[Allan Speers]

That's a fine little plane, identical to the Stanley 9 1/2. It's a 20 degree bed, not a 12 degree low angle, but still very useful. The depth-adjuster is rather a PITA compared to the other types, but at least there is one.


Unfortunately, this particular plane appears to be missing the little lever that tightens the levercap, rendering it useless.

[steven c newman]

A fellow over on LJs ( where this question is also posted) HAS a spare cap iron, needs a PM to know where to send it to you.

[Jim Koepke]

A fellow over on LJs ( where this question is also posted) HAS a spare cap iron, needs a PM to know where to send it to you.

Amazing, there are more solutions on SMC before I have even had my first cup of coffee.

jtk

[Glen Canaday]

It would be better to get a proper cap. It's a great plane otherwise.

The caps from the Millers Falls 16, 26, and 36 will all fit. Also a Stanley 9 1/2 cap will slap right on. The G12-220 caps may also, I have them but it never occurred to me to check.

You really want that cam lever to operate correctly. If you tighten down on the cap screw instead you'll have a ton of resistance for the depth adjuster to work against and it'll be a pain in the butt to adjust.

[Brad Root]

Thanks to everybody for all of the advice. I am going to try and get that cap mentioned over at LJ. In the meantime, I will just use the low angle MF 56.

[steven c newman]

I have both the M-F 56B and the later 1455. Both are low angle. Just fixed up a M-F No. 75/ Sears 107-36032? Restored back to the Millers Falls look.

Happen to use that 56B a lot! We'll see how the 75 works later.
BTW...have two Stanley 9-1/2 block planes in the shop. One, though is a type 2.

[Brad Root]

Glad to hear you like the 56B. My 56 is almost completely tuned up now, and I am excited to try it out. Let me know how that 75 works out once you start using it.

[steven c newman]

So far..so good on the No.75
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Basically, this was a Millers falls knock-off of a Stanley #220. I changed in from what was sold at Sears
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To what it looks like now
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Looks a lot better..now.

[Clay Parrish]

The “accidental” plane turned out to be a standard angle Craftsman 3704 BB (a rebrand of the Millers Falls 26, I believe).

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The Craftsman 3704 block planes were manufactured, I believe, by several different companies over the years. I have one myself, which I believe is the same as the Stanley produced one. (I think you and I both have the same type.)

Observe the differences in the thumb oval and the adjustment lever:

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1941 Sears catalog

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My 3704 (left) and 3732 (right)


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Now, compare with this ebay 3704 - different oval (nearly round) and the end of the adjustment lever is different.

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Same ebay plane as previous. Hooked lever.

Could the first type (oval thumb rest, bent lever) be Stanley made, and the second type (round thumb rest, hooked lever) be a Sargent manufactured plane? I'm not enough of a plane expert to tell you, maybe someone else can chime in.

Those are all the pics I have handy at the moment.

[Brad Root]

Interesting... My reasons for thinking that this is a MF are:

1. I believe BB was the early Sears code for Millers Falls

2. The plane looks like the MF 26 posted here: http://oldtoolheaven.com/blok/blok01.htm

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The thumb rest is more oval and the lever is bent, not hooked.

Honestly, however, I cannot tell the difference between the MF 26 and the Stanley 16 (which is the nickel plated version of the 9 1/2). Here is a picture of a Stanley 16:
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3. I found this: "



*11/11/14: It is important to note that there are TWO different Craftsman block planes with the 3704 model number. One is made by Millers Falls and is easy to tell the lateral adjuster lever comes out above the depth adjuster knob and bends downward in an arc. The other, from Sears vendor #619 (originally Sargent's OEM code iirc, now assigned to Arps Corp.) is easily characterized by a "folded over" lateral adjuster. They also have quite different levers on otherwise nearly identical lever caps - the Millers Falls-made plane has a lever that more closely resembles the modern Stanley #220 lever, the 619-numbered plane has one that appears slightly longer and more narrow.









http://timetestedtools.forumchitchat.com/post/made-by-millers-falls-7288452

So what do you think? Do we have Millers Falls planes?

[steven c newman]

I think that hooked lever was from Sargent Tool Co. Also note the mouth adjuster being a different set up It was also called a 607 I think...

[Brad Root]

Yes it does! Very nice!

[steven c newman]

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Sargent version
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Opened up. Note the lateral lever.

[Brad Root]

Yeah, that is different from the one I have:
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[Allan Speers]

So what do you think? Do we have Millers Falls planes?


Here's whatI have on the 3704 : (This is from my database, referring specifically to several that I own, hence the detailed descriptions)
================================================== ========================



The 3704 (similar to the Stanley 9 1/2) was made for Sears in two different ways by two different companies, Millers Falls and Sargent.

Millers Falls made the 107-3704 and was also the Millers Falls #16.

Sargent made the 619-3704 and was also the Sargent 5306. I think this was the last of the planes produced by anyone for Sears that had a 4-digit suffix in the model number.

There are very subtle differences between the #16, the 107-3704, and the 37052. Interestingly, there is ANOTHER 37052-A that has a completely different lever cap - no lever! Just a great big knurled knob and no place in the cap casting for the lever at all.

There was another made by Millers Falls called the 107-37032 (note the 5-digit suffix). It is the Millers Falls #16CG - the same as a Stanley 9 1/2 but with the lateral lever low to the bottom of the plane and the simpler depth adjuster knob that was on the MF #56 and #57 (think: same as Stanley 60 1/2 depth knob).
================================================


My Craftsman 3704 Block Plane #1

Based on the blade, which mates to the base, it’s Craftsman 619-3704

Made by Sargent, and identical to their Sargent 5306 (there is no doubt.) except that most 5306’s had a knuckle-cap.

Iron bedded at 20°, with a “standard” cutting angle of 45-50°

Nickel-plated cap. Japanned body.

6 3/8” long. 1 15/16” wide. (Slightly narrower & longer than a Stanley. Also lighter.)

1 5/8” blade. marked: 619-3704

##The blade has an attached lateral adjuster !

It also has a slightly different tension thing than a Stanley, and a VERY different mouth mechanism overall. - This also matches the Sargent 5306.

The bed says: 306 - 16 and “Made In USA” - This also matches the Sargent 5306.

Under the levercap: 307 and 306.

I LIKE THIS ONE BETTER THAN THE GREEN Craftsman 37052. It is easier to hold.

I also prefer the mouth adjuster and the lateral adjuster.

Sadly, the depth adjuster wheel has TONS of slop, unlike the Stanley.
================================================== =============


Two others:

#1 is marked 107-37032 on the side, so it’s a Millers Falls 16CG.
It measures 6 1/4".

#2 is marked 306-16 on the body beneath the iron, with the iron itself marked 619-3704, making the plane probably a Sargent 5306.
It measures just a hair under 6 1/2".

[Allan Speers]

^ Strange, the things we find important, eh? :p

[Allan Speers]

FWIW, here's a small physical comparison, with three Craftsman adjustable blocks in the pic:

L-R: Gordon Gidgee Block, Craftsman 3732 (Stanley 65), Craftsman 3704 (Sargent 5306) , Craftsman 37052 (Stanley 9 1/2) ,
Lie Nielsen 60 1/2, Stanley 60 1/2, Steve Knight Ebony Pocket Plane.

Note the different mouth adjuster on my 3704 (made by Sargent) and the OP's 3704 (likely made by MF.)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31826742/My%20Block%20Planes%20-%20adjustable.jpg

[don wilwol]

some help may be found (I thought i already posted this, so if its a dup, sorry!)

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/02/26/craftsman-hand-plane-model-number-comparison/

[Brad Root]

You and Glen have both done wonderful jobs figuring out these Craftsman planes!

One quick update for you, Don: my particular Craftsman 3704 is not on your chart. It would go in the Craftsman by Millers Falls column and the same row as the Craftsman/Sargent 107-37032, Stanley 16, Millers Falls 26, and the Sargent 306.

[Brad Root]

Here is what is marked on the bed of my 3704:

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Near the lever on the left: 497 (I think)
Near the mouth: G Ⓤ 5

I have no idea what any of it means, but maybe someone else can make sense of it.

[don wilwol]

You and Glen have both done wonderful jobs figuring out these Craftsman planes!

One quick update for you, Don: my particular Craftsman 3704 is not on your chart. It would go in the Craftsman by Millers Falls column and the same row as the Craftsman/Sargent 107-37032, Stanley 16, Millers Falls 26, and the Sargent 306.

So you have a Millers Falls made block plane marked 3704? Interesting.

[don wilwol]

Here is what is marked on the bed of my 3704:

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Near the lever on the left: 497 (I think)
Near the mouth: G Ⓤ 5

I have no idea what any of it means, but maybe someone else can make sense of it.


Where is it marked 3704?

[Brad Root]

On the side
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Craftsman No. 3704
BB

[don wilwol]

Thanks. I've added it.

[Brad Root]

I think so. Not positive, but BB does mean Millers Falls, correct?

[Brad Root]

Thanks. It probably needs to be on the next line down since all of the metal trim is nickel plated like the MF 26/Stanley 16

[Allan Speers]

I think so. Not positive, but BB does mean Millers Falls, correct?


I believe so, yes. According to most sources, the 3704 was only made by MF and Sargent, and that's definitely not a Sargent.

Also, here's one with "BB" and an MF (107 designation) blade:

http://www.tias.com/8600/PictPage/1922283257.html


- This also jives with What Don has on his website.