My Second Plane!

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

Hello All!

Today, my second plane arrived! You may remember my first plane from last week. My newest member of the family is the Veritas Router plane, and I'm sure once I figure out what I'm doing, it will be a fantastic tool to use for woodworking. So far I have just the router plane and the LV LA jack plane. I am thinking I probably need a block plane of some sort, and then I can probably relax with buying planes for a bit. I'm open to suggestions for the best plane to get.

I was thinking of the LN rabbet block plane, but then the Veritas DX60 is also on my mind (If the NX60 was available, this would already be out for delivery). What about the skew block plane offering from Veritas? I really need to start saving some money for a new table saw, band saw and drill press - and I don't actually make furniture yet - so I don't think I really need a smoother or jointer at this time. I'm trying to decide on the style of workbench that I want to build, and then I plan on picking up some wood for it this weekend.

[Phil Mueller]

That router plane is one of my favorite tools. You'll enjoy it.

[Chris Hachet]

That router plane is one of my favorite tools. You'll enjoy it.


Ditto...that and the Rabbiting block plane from LN you mentioned. Both fantastic. Also, plus one on the NX 60....it is on my bucket list.

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

Ditto...that and the Rabbiting block plane from LN you mentioned. Both fantastic. Also, plus one on the NX 60....it is on my bucket list.

The skew block plane page at LV says that you can use it in all the ways you use a regular block plane. If that's true, and the skew has added functionality as well, wouldn't that be a smart choice? Choices are difficult.

[Patrick Chase]

Hello All!

Today, my second plane arrived! You may remember my first plane from last week. My newest member of the family is the Veritas Router plane, and I'm sure once I figure out what I'm doing, it will be a fantastic tool to use for woodworking. So far I have just the router plane and the LV LA jack plane. I am thinking I probably need a block plane of some sort, and then I can probably relax with buying planes for a bit. I'm open to suggestions for the best plane to get.

I was thinking of the LN rabbet block plane, but then the Veritas DX60 is also on my mind (If the NX60 was available, this would already be out for delivery). What about the skew block plane offering from Veritas? I really need to start saving some money for a new table saw, band saw and drill press - and I don't actually make furniture yet - so I don't think I really need a smoother or jointer at this time. I'm trying to decide on the style of workbench that I want to build, and then I plan on picking up some wood for it this weekend.

Sorry, but that's a pretty lame shrine. You need pictures, newspaper clippings (I know, not what the kids read these days), candles, etc etc.

[Patrick Chase]

Ditto...that and the Rabbiting block plane from LN you mentioned. Both fantastic. Also, plus one on the NX 60....it is on my bucket list.

That's a great router plane. Getting it with the optional fence was also a good move.

I have the LV skew block (actually a rabbeting block plane), low-angle block, and apron block planes. Even I (an admitted tool whore) couldn't justify the cost of the NX60/LX60. They all work great.

The skew/rabbet blocks come into their own for things like trimming tenon faces (not shoulders though - you really want a shoulder plane for that IMO), and conventional blocks can't do that. Ideally you should have both :-)

[Jim Koepke]

Sorry, but that's a pretty lame shrine. You need pictures, newspaper clippings (I know, not what the kids read these days), candles, etc etc.

I don't understand Patrick. Doesn't everyone have a router next to their computer?

jtk

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

Sorry, but that's a pretty lame shrine. You need pictures, newspaper clippings (I know, not what the kids read these days), candles, etc etc.

I posted the pic of my LV LA jack plane in the bedroom, because it's a sexy beast. I posted the pic of my router plane at work (I'm in IT) amongst the computers, because..you know...routers. I will build a proper shrine at home, once I've gotten a few more planes.

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

I don't understand Patrick. Doesn't everyone have a router next to their computer?

jtk

Thank you Jim, you just validated my corny humor.

[Patrick Chase]

I posted the pic of my LV LA jack plane in the bedroom, because it's a sexy beast. I posted the pic of my router plane at work (I'm in IT) amongst the computers, because..you know...routers. I will build a proper shrine at home, once I've gotten a few more planes.

Wow, I'm a CSer (and a Googler to boot) and I totally missed obvious (and good) IT humor. I hope nobody at work reads this...

[Brett Luna]

Nice. My LV LA jack (my 6th plane) should be here in a couple of days. That router plane is high on my LV wish list.

[glenn bradley]

I enjoy the LV router plane. When it comes to block planes I prefer the LV apron plane. I have other block planes but, it seems when I want a "smaller" plane I always reach for the apron plane (http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=46791&cat=1,41182,48942). I added a front knob and ball tail to my LV LA block and use it sort of like a LA #3.

[Lenore Epstein]

The skew block plane page at LV says that you can use it in all the ways you use a regular block plane. If that's true, and the skew has added functionality as well, wouldn't that be a smart choice? Choices are difficult.


I have the LV skew block (actually a rabbeting block plane), low-angle block, and apron block planes. Even I (an admitted tool whore) couldn't justify the cost of the NX60/LX60. They all work great.

The skew/rabbet blocks come into their own for things like trimming tenon faces (not shoulders though - you really want a shoulder plane for that IMO), and conventional blocks can't do that. Ideally you should have both :-)
My dilemma is similar to the OP's, so with apologies I'll piggyback on his question.

I've got a pretty-well-tuned-up Stanley #3 smoother and a #18 block that's coming along well enough to put off buying a new LA block plane. The LV router is next on my list, but I think I need something for rabbets.

I was considering a skew plane for rabbets, but thought the LN rabbeting block plane would be more versatile because it isn't directional--that is, it's made to cut rabbets in both directions, rather than needing two skew planes to cover grain direction oddities. Am I off base? I've also seen claims that shoulder planes can be used for rabbets (at least to clean them up), but I'm not sure that's even possible.

[Patrick Chase]

My dilemma is similar to the OP's, so with apologies I'll piggyback on his question.

I've got a pretty-well-tuned-up Stanley #3 smoother and a #18 block that's coming along well enough to put off buying a new LA block plane. The LV router is next on my list, but I think I need something for rabbets.

I was considering a skew plane for rabbets, but thought the LN rabbeting block plane would be more versatile because it isn't directional--that is, it's made to cut rabbets in both directions, rather than needing two skew planes to cover grain direction oddities. Am I off base? I've also seen claims that shoulder planes can be used for rabbets (at least to clean them up), but I'm not sure that's even possible.

A lot of people use shoulder planes to clean up the *vertical* face of a rabbet after it's been cut, either to fine-tune depth or to clean up any roughness from not having the nicker exactly right etc. I'm sure that with enough effort you could cut the rabbet with a shoulder plane as well - you'd need a batten to replace the fence, you'd want to scribe with a knife to make up for the lack of nickers, and you'd need to keep track of depth manually.

The directionality of the skew block does matter for rabbets (and that's why I have pairs). Note however that "nondirectional" straight-bladed planes don't get the benefit of skew either, so tradeoffs aren't as clear-cut as they might appear.

[Josh Nelson]

My dilemma is similar to the OP's, so with apologies I'll piggyback on his question.

I've got a pretty-well-tuned-up Stanley #3 smoother and a #18 block that's coming along well enough to put off buying a new LA block plane. The LV router is next on my list, but I think I need something for rabbets.

I was considering a skew plane for rabbets, but thought the LN rabbeting block plane would be more versatile because it isn't directional--that is, it's made to cut rabbets in both directions, rather than needing two skew planes to cover grain direction oddities. Am I off base? I've also seen claims that shoulder planes can be used for rabbets (at least to clean them up), but I'm not sure that's even possible.

I tend to be firmly in the category of "use a shoulder plane" though I tend to use a stair saw to establish the walls of the cut. I've admittedly never used a rabbet plane though I've used a moving fillister and I've considered sourcing one myself.

[Glen Canaday]

I have a mf skew rabbet I've never used. But that's just because I got it last week!

A router plane is the tool that got me sucked down into this hole in the first place. There are things that it's just plain the right tool for and things it can stand in to do when the right tool just isn't available. The fence just makes it that much more versatile. Good choice my friend, good choice.

Now about this lack of a smoother... You might want to get acquainted with whatever you get before you actually need it.

Oh, incidentally, I have the Veritas miniature router too. It was a gag gift for Christmas two years ago. I haven't needed it yet, but I bet that when I do, it'll be the only tool that would do what I needed!

[Jim Koepke]

My dilemma is similar to the OP's, so with apologies I'll piggyback on his question.

I've got a pretty-well-tuned-up Stanley #3 smoother and a #18 block that's coming along well enough to put off buying a new LA block plane. The LV router is next on my list, but I think I need something for rabbets.

I was considering a skew plane for rabbets, but thought the LN rabbeting block plane would be more versatile because it isn't directional--that is, it's made to cut rabbets in both directions, rather than needing two skew planes to cover grain direction oddities. Am I off base? I've also seen claims that shoulder planes can be used for rabbets (at least to clean them up), but I'm not sure that's even possible.

For rabbeting it is very nice to have a fence. Of the half dozen planes capable of rabbeting, the one that gets the most use in my shop is a Record 778. Before that one of my Stanley 45s was usually employed to cut rabbets.

If money wasn't an object my inclination would be toward a pair of the skew rabbets. Then there would be less of a challenge in any situation where a rabbet was needed.

The Record 778 is an improvement of the Stanley 78. It has two rods compared to the Stanley's single fence rod. My experience with the #778 is one has to pay attention to the screws if the operator doesn't have the strength to tighten them. They tend to work loose from vibration. I use a small pair of pliers and give them just a bit more torque than I can manage bare handed. I have a delicate touch with pliers and do this without marring the fasteners. They need a little extra tightening, not torqued until they are about to snap.

Knifing the edge keeps it clean if the grain isn't in your favor.

If you are willing to work with a batten, old skew bladed wood bodied rabbet planes can often be found inexpensively. The ones I have found usually have the blade angle slightly off which makes them next to unusable. This is fairly easy to correct with a little time on a stone. That may be why people give up on them. I think I have four of them from 3/4" to 2" with less than $50 invested.

Usually after a few cuts to establish the rabbet the batten can be removed. It is also possible to mark a knife line and work that wider with a rabbet plane at an angle then gradually level it out.

Finally if you like to fiddle a wide body rabbet plane can have a few additions and become a moving filister plane.

All that fiddling can be fun. The only thing that might be more fun would be a package in the mail with a pair of left and right hand skew rabbet planes

jtk

[Patrick Chase]

For rabbeting it is very nice to have a fence. Of the half dozen planes capable of rabbeting, the one that gets the most use in my shop is a Record 778. Before that one of my Stanley 45s was usually employed to cut rabbets.

If money wasn't an object my inclination would be toward a pair of the skew rabbets. Then there would be less of a challenge in any situation where a rabbet was needed.

The Record 778 is an improvement of the Stanley 78. It has two rods compared to the Stanley's single fence rod. My experience with the #778 is one has to pay attention to the screws if the operator doesn't have the strength to tighten them. They tend to work loose from vibration. I use a small pair of pliers and give them just a bit more torque than I can manage bare handed. I have a delicate touch with pliers and do this without marring the fasteners. They need a little extra tightening, not torqued until they are about to snap.

One thing that Veritas executed very well on their joinery planes (with the notable exception of the router) is the fence adjustment. They use collets to grip the fence rods and they do not slip. Only the depth stops continue to require cranking of the sort you describe.

A pair of the skew rabbets is a formidable combination indeed. I've started using my newly acquired 10-1/2 for particularly nasty reversing grain (with close-set cap iron of course), but for everything else the skew rabbets rule.

[Chris Hachet]

The skew block plane page at LV says that you can use it in all the ways you use a regular block plane. If that's true, and the skew has added functionality as well, wouldn't that be a smart choice? Choices are difficult.

The LN lane also works well as a regular block plane as well. It will work IMHO as a shoulder plane to clean up tennons, although not as well. The Skew Rabbit Block plane (not the Skew Rabbit Plane0 would be a heck of a choice also, but it is $50 more and it takes more time for me to sharpen a skewed blade than a strait one.

[Chris Hachet]

I tend to be firmly in the category of "use a shoulder plane" though I tend to use a stair saw to establish the walls of the cut. I've admittedly never used a rabbet plane though I've used a moving fillister and I've considered sourcing one myself.

I never thought about using a stair saw in this way, thanks for the tip!

Have to try that out....

[Lenore Epstein]

I tend to be firmly in the category of "use a shoulder plane" though I tend to use a stair saw to establish the walls of the cut.
I've read about this, but I'll need to learn how to saw to a line before I try it. Practice, practice, practice.

Great news--I finally finished the last bit of work on the #18 and after some fiddling I made almost transparent shavings! Some little dings in the edge keep me from getting full width shavings, but that's easily rectified.

Replies to everyone's great advice will come later...