Dway Beading tool

[Prashun Patel]

I just purchased a Dway 1/4" beading tool and love it. It feels like cheating.

How in the world do you sharpen it, though?

[John Keeton]

Groove up on the platform of the Wolverine, replicating the angle Dave put on it. And, yes, they are fantastic tools.

[Prashun Patel]

So are you saying you only need to sharpen the bevel, and not the flute? Is it just sharpened like a square nose scraper?

That's actually another question: I have always been afraid of presenting my scrapers top-side up to the wheel. It seems like that scraping edge is just dying to dig into that wheel and catch. So, I always sharpen them upside down (don't laugh) on the bottom edge of the wheel. How do you do it, JK?

[John Keeton]

Correct on the bevel. Don't touch the flute. I sharpen my scrapers topside up with the platform close to the wheel and have no issues.

[Michael Schneider]

Take a look at Dave's 4 videos on using his beading tools.



You can either go to the d-way site -> video library
or the you can search youtube for the titles

for sharpening on grinder, look at video Sharpening D-WayTools Spindle & Roughing Gouges, Skews, Scrapers, Beading & Parting Tools


beading tools platform grinding start at 5:06
free hand grinding at 12:16




D-WayTools Beading Tools Part 1


D-WayTools Beading Tools Part 2



at 3:08 on Part 2 it shows how to hone
at 6:18 on part 2 Dave explain's what to not sharpen


Then look at
D-WayTools Beading Tools On Bowl

[Pat Scott]

What size beader did you get? I've made a couple of bowls like yours, did you have to sand each bead? I think the bowls look cool, but kind of a pain to make because invariably I have to sand each bead because of tear out from the end grain. And then when applying oil, I have to make sure to run my fingernail or some other tool (under the rag) in each of the grooves so excess oil doesn't collect.

332440

[Prashun Patel]

I kno exactly what you mean, Pat. I did exactly what you did.

Further, when finishing, I can't use a shop towel, because it deposits little blue shards in the end grain.

A little trick that I have not perfected, but worked ok:

Use the beading tool to sand. At low enough speed, the points of the scraper hold a blue sanding disk well enough to be able to get into the crevices. The disc tends to fly off, so I hold the edge of the disc with one hand and the scraper with a second, with the lathe spinning away from me. Also, the grit wears away very quickly in the creases that develop. I am going to try this technique with a flexible sanding sheet from 3M.

I also find that aggressively sanding the beads can lead to squaring.

Until I figure this out, I'll proably not make a 'ribbed' bowl again; I'll space the beads at a little more sanding friendly spacing.

[John K Jordan]

How in the world do you sharpen it, though?

Use a hone or grind the flat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH9MQnA6ApY

This is the same way I sharpen fluted parting tools.


To see how Harvey Meyer sharpens the beading tools, start at 34:10 on this video, 34:50 for grinding.
to see how Harvey uses these, start at about 18:30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A4UI_7OYDo

JKJ
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A4UI_7OYDo)

[Justin Stephen]

Yup, I only ever hone mine on the flat. I probably re-hone every four beads or so.

[Richard Henke]

The correct angle for grinding the beading tools is 60degrees. Works really well with Robo Hippy's tool rest.