Pulley for Delta 46-715 Lathe

[John Rosser]

I recently purchased a used Delta Wood Lathe, 46-715. I am now looking for a pulley, part #15. Is there anyone out there that might have access to one or have any ideas on how to fix the problem of the pulleys going bad.
Thanks for any ideas.

[Dick Strauss]

John,
I can't help you with the #15 spindle side pulley set. I lost the spindle pulley half of #15 that doesn't include indexing holes. I still have the motor pulley (#6) set in good condition. Typically these reeves drive pulleys need to be replaced as a set so that the keyway aligns the two halves properly unless you can have someone cut a new keyway on both while they are properly aligned. The pulleys are made of pot metal so adding a bushing to the center hub probably won't work (I tried and failed). Some folks have looked at Jet, HF, and Grizzly reeves pulley sets for replacements but all are made of junk pot metal as far as I know. Be aware that Delta had at least two different reeves spindle pulley sets for the 46-715 (the two spindle shaft diameters were somthing like 24 and 22mm or 24 and 20mm) depending on the age of the lathe (PNs 5140061-87 for lathe Type#1 and 5140052-65 for Type#2/3 that includes the spindle/pulleys/belt). My lathe has a 24mm shaft section where the pulleys ride.

I replaced both reeves pulley sets with cast iron Maska/Baldor 2/3/4 step pulleys, a 1.5hp 1140 rpm 3-phase motor, and a VFD for variable speed. I stacked the indexing half of the spindle pulley on the back of the step pulley so that I still have indexing. Later I will replace the indexing half once I turn a new indexing pulley with more indexing points that are more precise. I ended up with three speed ranges of roughly 20-600, 40-1200, and 80-2400 rpms. This is definitely not a beginner's project and wouldn't be worthwhile if I didn't have access to the replacement components at very good prices.

Good luck,
Dick

[John Rosser]

Dick,
Thanks for your reply.

[Dick Strauss]

John,
The key to keeping these going is to lube them regularly (every few months) and run them through the full speed range regularly (while the lathe is moving-see below). Also make sure you don't try to change speeds when the lathe is stopped as it puts too much stress on the pulleys. I'll PM you with more information on the #6 set I have to see if it matches yours.

Good luck,
Dick

[John Rosser]

Thanks Dick,

I just need to figure out how to look at a PM. I found how to send one, I think. I am such a rookie to this forum.

[Dick Strauss]

After you log in, scroll to the top of the page and click on the "Notifications" and downward arrow area. There you should see a number if you have any PMs you haven't read.

[John Rosser]

Thanks Dick, I will measure my motor shaft and get back to you. I appreciate your help. I have looked at the Grizzly G0462 Pulley Spindle Set. Someone mentioned it is a clone of the Delta 436-715. However the diameter of the Grizzly is a larger than the Delta. A friend of mine said he can put a bushing in the Grizzly set to match my Delta. Does that sound like a possible solution to you?
Again, Thanks

[Dick Strauss]

It is possible but not real easy. Be very careful when you are pressing in the bushings because the pot metal pulleys are very fragile. Also, has your friend taken into account the keyway that will need to be cut in the both of the bushed pulley sections and those sections will have to properly correspond to one another? The pullleys use a 4mm keyway if I remember right. So, if the bushings are not more than 2mm finished wall thickness (4mm bore diameter difference), you will want to put some green 600 series Loctite (like bearing lock) in first to keep the bushings in place and let that set before keyway cutting. Hopefully this will prevent them from moving during the keyway cutting process (otherwise as you cut through the bushing wall, the bushing will lose its fit).

I know nothing about the actual bore diameter of the Griz pulley sets. If you can find pulleys that are larger bore diameter, it will make everything easier because you will have a thicker bushing wall. I would suggest Oilite (oiled bronze) bushings so that they have some slight self-lubricating characteristics though I don't know how well the Loctite will stick (I'd suggest you check if needed). You could cut the keyway in the both bushings (assumed the wall thickness is more than 2mm) and install one bushing. Then get the pulley halves aligned (as suggested below) and then press in the second bushing using the key actually mounted in the keyway to align the second bushing to the first while maintaining the proper alignment.

If your friend is wiling to take on the job, I would suggest putting the two halves together (while the veins/fins are intertwined) and sliding equal shims on the left and right sides of one vein. You may want to do this to several veins/fins around the pulley set. That way the shims will hold a slight spacing between the opposing veins and help bind them together as a pair during the keyway process.

I'm sure there are other ways as well but I know it won't be easy unless your friend has lots of equipment.

[John Rosser]

I will show him your response and see what he thinks. He does have a lot of equipment, has been doing this type of work for many years.

[Dick Strauss]

I hope he is able to help and I don't want to discourage you at all. It would be much easier without the keyway issue (the keyway makes sure that the pulley halves will mesh together properly (preventing the veins/fins hitting from each other) to make the largest diameters). I just want you both to go in with both eyes open. Sometimes friends offer to help not knowing what they are really in for if you know what I mean.


Good luck,
Dick

[Doug Ladendorf]

Could your friend make a new set of pulleys from aluminum?