Blum 155 degree hinge and inset doors

[Michael Weber]

I did study the catalog and searched online for this information. I may be getting senile but couldn't find the answer. Appreciate any info. I would call Blum but a hearing disorder prevents that at this time.

I'm building beaded face frame cabs with inset doors and using Blum hinges with good results. Until plans change, and wife wants pull out shelves in one cabinet. The cab is already pretty narrow and I dont want to make the pull outs much narrower.

Blum sells the 155 degree hinge specifically for use with pull outs as it allows the door to clear the opening allowing near full width pull outs. But the catalog does not show this particular hinge as usable for inset doors but doesn't specifically say it can't.

So my obvious first question is can it be used with inset doors and still clear the opening? Which raises my second question, which mounting plate or adapter would I need? Although the cabs are face frame, in this instance the edge of the beaded stile is near flush with the cabinet edge so the plate would need to mount to the case side, not on or behind the stile.

I'm open to other solutions that don't sacrifice width. Thanks, Mike

[Martin Wasner]

I'd skip the 155º hinge and go with the 170º hinge, half crank. I'm not certain you will get the door out of the way far enough with the 155º, the 170º will almost certainly swing out of the way. B071T6650 in my catalog for a screw in type. You'll need the inset plate that mounts behind the face frame, B175H5030.21 in my catalog.

You can also use a hinge plate that mounts to the carcass depending on what your pocket is. But if it isn't planned for it, it likely won't work well. you're kinda cheating the math on the hardware to make it work well. I'm not a huge fan of the behind the frame mounting plates. They tend to come loose, and they are a snot to install if the holes aren't pre-drilled prior to attaching the face frame.


(edit)- I didn't read your post very closely. The carcass is almost flush. You won't have room for the behind the frame plate. Let me know what the pocket is, and I can figure it out.


The Blum Tables are a bit of a nightmare until you get used to reading them. Especially if you're cheating.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

So my obvious first question is can it be used with inset doors and still clear the opening?

No, because you're moving it 3/4" into the cabinet. On a full overlay (3/4") door, the door is only 3/32" outside of the cabinet interior.

[Martin Wasner]

Gerry is correct, the 155º hinge is straight arm and basically overlay only. You'd have to use a 18mm plate just to get the margin to zero between the door and face frame. With a pocket behind the frame I don't think no matter how close you bore the cup to the edge it won't work.

You need something that is either a half or full crank hinge arm.

You're still going to have to raise the bottom hinge to clear the roll out tray, the hinge itself will be hanging into the opening no matter what.

[jim mills]

I'd skip the hinges and just attach the door to the pull out if possible.

[Michael Weber]

Martin and Gerry, I guess that makes sense or the would have shown the application in the catalog. I have a 170 degree hinge on hand. It the 70.6550.01 ( mistakenly ordered a while back) which I guess is the non soft close version of the one you mentioned Martin. Using a 175L6630.22 plate with the hinge on a mockup it does not clear the cabinet side. Another plate perhaps? I'm not sure what you mean by "pocket" but if you mean the distance from the cab edge to the face frame, I can make that flush without a problem but as of now it's only about 1/4 inch from being flush.
Jim, thanks, there will be multiple pull outs otherwise that would an easy solution.

[Martin Wasner]

I don't think the 170° comes in soft close, there is an add on clip for them though.

Pocket, yes, distance from face frame to the box work. I'll check at the shop tomorrow and see what plate works with it. I'm pretty sure I've got some of the half crank floating around.

[Warren Lake]

I went through this on the last piece with inset. Compounding the adventure was doors were 7/8" thick. I set them back .030 from the furthest out rounding point of the bead and wanted a door gap of .060-.070

Did the web site thing on Blum and Salice and wasted a ton of time. Sales reps could not give me model numbers and base plates that worked but then I didnt fit the mold with door thickness or gap. Finally I was given a bunch of sample hinges to work it out and got it but the doors close too slow for my liking. Left the hinges on and at the same time found two old Salice self closing hinges I had here and they worked better than anything. they were the large maybe 160 degree things and I dont know a model or part number but they had more than enough adjustment to work with the thicker door. I really liked them but only had two needed four and cant even find them in the shop now.

My offset of the style over the cabinet inside was 3/16".

[Martin Wasner]

Normally with a half crank hinge and the behind the frame plate you drill it at 21mm. We run a bit tighter margins so we drill them at 21.5mm, not a huge difference.
If you've got a 1/4" pocket and attaching the plate to the carcass, normally you'd use a full crank hinge and 6mm plate, with the cup bored at 21.5mm
With a half crank hinge, (since the 170º doesn't come in full crank), you'll have to use an 18mm plate, and by the looks of it you'll have to drill them in just a bit further to not max out the adjustment in the hinge. I'd drill it at 22.5mm probably, but I'd still do a test cup first to make sure the margins aren't wacky. There shouldn't be any interference with the opening and closing, a 170º hinge really kicks it away from the frame before it starts swinging too much.

Those plates only come in 0,3,6,9,18mm. I don't think a 9mm would work even with a couple of spacers, which I really, really hate those spacers. I've bugged my Blum rep a few times that a 12 or 13mm plate would come in really handy, and that the spacers look terrible when you screw up and have to use them.

It'll work, just might take a few minutes of experimenting.

Hope that helps.

[Michael Weber]

Thanks so much for your help Martin, much appreciated. I'll get a couple of the 18 mm plates and see what I can come up with. Warren,thanks also for your experience.

[Warren Lake]

This was the Salice that worked, probably 110 degree. Now if I can just find the 160 degree self closing ones I had will find out the model and change them out. Let us know what part numbers work for you in Blum Ill either go in blum next time or might do Butt Hinges.

thanks

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