Applying Edge Trim to a Cabinet Top

[George Bokros]

I am making a cabinet that I am planning to use a solid wood top. The grain on the field will run across the width of the top. I would like to hide the end grain with a trim with the grain running perpendicular to the field. I want the trim to be narrow so that the joint line of the trim where it meets the field is at the back edge of the trim piece. I know how to do this but am concerned with the wood movement. The trim piece will not be wide enough to use a floating spline so how can I attach the trim banding so as to not have a wood movement issue?

I hope I explained this well enough to get some answers.

Thanks

[Jerry Miner]

You are treading into dangerous territory. My own attitude is to accept or even celebrate the endgrain and cut a profile right into the endgrain, no trim.

If you have enough material, you can attach the trim with a sliding dovetail, gluing the front couple inches and letting the back end float.

You MIGHT get away with installing trim with glue at the front couple inches, and finish nails/brads toward the rear, in the hope that wood movement will be minimal and the nails will bend enough to "absorb" the slight movement. This HAS been done successfully, but there is some risk.

[Cody Colston]

If you have enough material, you can attach the trim with a sliding dovetail, gluing the front couple inches and letting the back end float.

You MIGHT get away with installing trim with glue at the front couple inches, and finish nails/brads toward the rear, in the hope that wood movement will be minimal and the nails will bend enough to "absorb" the slight movement. This HAS been done successfully, but there is some risk.

+1

Also, using QS stock for the top would lessen the wood movement front-to-back.

[Jim Andrew]

Sounds like a good project to use biscuits on.

[Dan Hahr]

The only way that will work would be to continue the grain lines down over the edge.

Dan

[Ron Citerone]

[QUOTE=Jerry Miner;2532277]You are treading into dangerous territory. My own attitude is to accept or even celebrate the endgrain and cut a profile right into the endgrain, no trim.

I agree totally with what Jerry wrote. Tried cross grain on 2 walnut solid tops 25 year ago and they both failed!

[Jamie Buxton]

Use plywood for the field. Then you can stick edging on it like you want.

[David C. Roseman]

Use plywood for the field. Then you can stick edging on it like you want.

My thought as well, unless there's a particular reason you want solid stock. This also assumes you can find cabinet-grade ply goods in the wood you are using. Edge band with your solid stock, leaving the banding barely proud of the field so you can scrape/sand flush to the veneer. Then shape or rout whatever profile you want into the edge banding, so that the profile runs right up to the glue line to disguise it. I've done this quite a few times over the years with cabinets, vanity tops and large panels.