I'm Slowly Adjusting to Veritas Bevel-Up Planes

[Hilton Ralphs]

I see Lee Valley has an interesting add-on for their bevel-up planes.

From their website;


The fine thread on this Norris-style adjuster slows blade advancement, making it easier to set blade projection precisely. An easy retrofit for our bevel-up planes, it simply replaces the regular adjuster supplied with your plane. Made in Canada from stainless steel

I'll probably get one of each and try them out.

332116

[Patrick Chase]

I see Lee Valley has an interesting add-on for their bevel-up planes.

From their website;



I'll probably get one of each and try them out.

332116

They offer a similar adjuster (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=72193&cat=1,41182,72240&ap=1) for their custom bevel-down line as well. I tried one on my #4 for a while and didn't find it to be much of an improvement. I put the original one (which I'm quite happy with) back on.

[Jim Koepke]

It is amazing how fine of an adjuster can be made for a plane.

Yet my planes seem to work okay for me with the backlash handicapped adjustment mechanism of Bailey fame.

If it is more enjoyable for the user, then it is worth the price.

jtk

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Hilton. I hadn't seen these.
Fred

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks! Please let us know what you think once you try them out.

[Mike Holbrook]

I noticed the extra fine adjusters for the custom planes but did not know they were available for the BU planes, Good to know. Will be good to hear more opinions on these.

I have been reading old posts searching for information on bevel/frog angles for smoothing planes. I see some older posts, by SMC posters with BU planes, which explain that at least some users find they can adjust depth of cut on the fly. Conventional wisdom seems to suggest that depth adjustment on the fly is a unique feature of the Stanley type planes. I usually stop to adjust depth with Veritas BU planes, but with the side screw holding the iron in place I am wondering if the BU planes might be just as easy to adjust for depth, or easier with an extra fine adjustment?

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, I have no difficulty adjusting BU planes on the fly. It is only difficult if you over tighten the lever cap.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Phil Mueller]

+1 what Derek said. Admittedly though I have a habit of over tightening...need to work on that.

[Patrick Chase]

It is amazing how fine of an adjuster can be made for a plane.

Yet my planes seem to work okay for me with the backlash handicapped adjustment mechanism of Bailey fame.


IMO "no adjuster" also works pretty well :-).

[Frederick Skelly]

Mike, I have no difficulty adjusting BU planes on the fly. It is only difficult if you over tighten the lever cap.

Regards from Perth

Derek

+2. Me either.

[Mike Holbrook]

Nice, thanks for the input guys. I will practice keeping the lever cap looser. This seems to be the same thing I have been experiencing with trying to adjust my old Bailey/Stanley planes to adjust on the fly, so it certainly makes sense. In the case of the Stanley planes though there is a screw and a lever cap both of which need to be loose enough to allow adjustment.

So is anyone else using the fine adjusters, Hilton mentions, for either BU or BD Veritas planes? I have noticed that depth adjustment on Veritas BU planes seems much more sensitive than on Stanley type planes. The Stanley planes may even take a turn or two to get them to start registering on the blade. All my experience is with Veritas BU/LA planes so I have no idea about their new custom planes.

I have a hard time seeing very small protruding edges, especially if the light isn't just right. So being able to adjust via the shavings, on the fly has a good deal of appeal.

[george wilson]

Put a little wax on the top surface of your chip breaker. Then,with careful attention to the amount you tighten the lever cap,adjusting on the fly will be a LOT easier.

[Mike Holbrook]

Great tip George! I will give that a try here shortly. I think you are talking about the Bailey/Stanley planes, particularly the old ones, although I imagine this is good general advise. My old Stanley's parts go through an Evapo Rust bath. I use a little Camellia oil on them afterwards but I have been afraid of WD-40 and penetrating oils due to allergic skin reactions on my hands. Wax is a great idea.

Probably would help to wax a few of my squeaky old parts while I am at it.