Wood Veneer on Wood Substrate: Part 2

[Eric Weinheimer]

I have some redwood that I want to resaw and drumsand to a net 0.25" thickness. My plan is to glue the redwood to 0.5" BB grade for plywood and then put a T&G edge pattern on the redwood / plywood and use the new board for paneling on the wall.

Does this sound like it could work?

[Jamie Buxton]

It is not likely to work well. Solid lumber expands and contracts in an annual cycle in response to changes in atmospheric humidity. Plywood does not change, because the crossed directions of the laminates. When you laminate 1/4" of solid lumber on to a plywood substrate that is only 1/2" thick, the lumber's expansion and contraction is likely to make the composite panel cup.

[Jan Bianchi]

It is not likely to work well. Solid lumber expands and contracts in an annual cycle in response to changes in atmospheric humidity. Plywood does not change, because the crossed directions of the laminates. When you laminate 1/4" of solid lumber on to a plywood substrate that is only 1/2" thick, the lumber's expansion and contraction is likely to make the composite panel cup.

What about 1/8"? Is 3/32" preferable?

[Bryan Cramer]

You could probably get by with 1/8". That is the max thickness I would ever try to veneer. Then increase the Baltic Birch to 5/8".

[Jerry Miner]

The width of your pieces will make a big difference. If you're talking about 4" or less, your plan A could work, but I agree that 1/8" would be safer.

[Eric Weinheimer]

You could probably get by with 1/8". That is the max thickness I would ever try to veneer. Then increase the Baltic Birch to 5/8".

I'm in Oregon. The BB is a grade of fir plywood. It's between AC and CDX grades. The redwood I'm going to resaw is very old old growth. Four to eight inches wide.

Appreciate the feedback. Keep it coming. I have a lot of paneling to make!

[Eric Weinheimer]

I'm in Oregon. The BB is a grade of fir plywood. It's between AC and CDX grades. The redwood I'm going to resaw is very old old growth. Four to eight inches wide.

Appreciate the feedback. Keep it coming. I have a lot of paneling to make!


What about 1/8"? Is 3/32" preferable?

I don't think 1/8 or 3/32 would allow a T&G with a V groove pattern

[Mel Fulks]

The old growth redwood is usually close grained and dark colored, perhaps too dark to show well. You haven't asked for any design ideas,but I would use it to trim painted paneling or just panel one wall that faces windows.

[Eric Weinheimer]

The old growth redwood is usually close grained and dark colored, perhaps too dark to show well. You haven't asked for any design ideas,but I would use it to trim painted paneling or just panel one wall that faces windows.

The clear VG will be used for trim, moulding and panels. But most of the wood is figured and curly.

[Jamie Buxton]

Rather than making wide plywood panels, you can veneer the old-growth redwood on to some other lumber, perhaps new-growth redwood. You'd be making lumber boards whose front face is the old-growth. Then you'd put the T&G detail on the edges of each of these boards. You'd install the T&G boards with a little gap, so each board can expand and contract.

[Mel Fulks]

Good luck to you,and we would love to see photos of finished room. But dark rooms are just not tolerated well anymore.
Paneling much lighter in color than what you will end up with is routinely ordered ripped out by wives and or real estates
agents. Sometimes a coat of white paint can save it.

[Brad Shipton]

What type of adhesive are you planning on using? One sided veneering is not a good idea, and the amount of water introduced if you use a PVA will lead to curled panels. 1/8" skins would be better.

[Eric Weinheimer]

What type of adhesive are you planning on using? One sided veneering is not a good idea, and the amount of water introduced if you use a PVA will lead to curled panels. 1/8" skins would be better.

I did a sample with gorilla glue. The piece is 0.25" x 6" x 6'. Small bow in the length. I'll post pics later.

[Chris Padilla]

Yes, balance the panel with equal wood on each side of the substrate.

IMO, anything greater than 1/8" is not consider veneer as it can still expand and contract like wood. Going under 1/8", most of the modern adhesives are strong enough to resist the movement and keep things in their place.

I've personally witnessed 1/16" walnut veneer pulling a 1 1/4" MDF (sandwich of 2 5/8" MDF sheets) substrate out of flat--when I veneered only one side. I was quite amazed. Even at 1/16" (it was shop-cut by moi), the walnut still had enough 'power' to bend the MDF.

With that said, Jamie's idea sounds the most plausible: veneer the old-growth on new-growth. I'd make darn sure the new-growth is dried to ~8% before doing anything and spend money on clear stuff...heart.