Essential VFD controls for drill press? [Archive] - Sawmill Creek Woodworking Community

Skip Helms

02-15-2016, 10:37 AM

Hi Folks,

I am hot-rodding my 1957 Delta drill press with a 3-phase motor and a TECO JNEV-101-H1 VFD. The object is to slow the speed down enough to bore larger holes without burning the work (or the bits) and maybe a little light metal-working. I'm building a new Roubo/Shaker-style workbench and this will be handy for that.

Most of the practical information on the web is from the metal-working community with larger horsepower ratings and more need for panic-stops. I'm trying to keep the parts-count down. I've attached a sloppy picture of my current effort. The wires are loose on purpose so I can see what will have to be shrink-wrapped to move with the door and what can be hard-wired inside the box.

The box is a 10" x 10" x 6" Bud with a lexan panel over the VFD readout. It will sit at eye-level directly behind and to the left of the press head. I'm pulling 120 VAC from a dedicated 20-amp breaker on the main. That goes directly to a HD DPDT on/off switch -- which, in turn, powers all the other circuits. That is both a master power power control and also some protection against frequent power surges in the area. With as little as I actually use the machine, having both the hot and neutral open from the mains might come in handy.

A small utility box inside the main panel takes the juice after the switch for two 120v outlets. One accepts an appliance-grade surge suppressor for the VFD. The other is a 12v wall-wart to power the digital tachometer. Other circuits in the box are an (on) - off - (on) boat switch to power a linear actuator for the table. This is an old-school drill press with a friction table clamp -- very hard to control precisely and make it stay where you put it. There is also a 120v computer muffin fan on top to keep things cool.

I'm replacing the on/off switches on the head of the press with a 2-gang outdoor-rated outlet box that will house a reverse-stop-forward switch, a 10k-B pot and a momentary switch (not sure why but I can). The R-S-F switch is an NOS Siemens built for harder work than 24v control power. It is a maintained on-off-on DPDT that opens the circuit in the middle position.

Thanks for staying with me. I'd like to know if the stop position on that R-S-F switch is as good an on/off switch as I need for the 24v controls? I could put an emergency switch on the front but it would be right next to this one and as far as I'll get from spinning workpieces. I can't see putting a panic-switch on the panel and have to reach across the quill to hit it. That said, I'm very open to other thoughts on better ways to do this.

Thanks for looking and any comments, Skip331726

pat warner

02-15-2016, 1:06 PM

I use a foot treadle on my VFD.
I set the brake (deceleration) for 3".
So releasing the treadle stops the press fast enough.
Add some drill or tap friction and it stops almost immediately.
Probably faster than I could find an emergency switch.

Anthony Whitesell

02-15-2016, 1:12 PM

I did just the same thing. I picked up a 1954(?) Delta drill press with a three phase motor for $75, added the VFD etc. for another $200. It is wonderful.

Questions:
What is the HP of the motor?

Are you not able to pull over 220V? According to the manual, 110VAC could pull as much as 17.9A, but only 10.4A with the 240V version.

What is the digital tachometer for? What type of display?

Comments:
I am worried about running a drill press in reverse. I don't know if there is anything internal that a drill press running in reverse could loosen or damage. I did without that option.

I would put the fan on the side, front, or back. Not the top or bottom, where things are likely to fall into or get sucked up by the fan.

Your fwd/stop/rev switch would work, but which is quicker, to turn the switch to stop or push a button? Choice and preference more than a functional decision.

Suggestions:
I prefer to have a contactor and dedicated resettable over current protection, such as Allen-Bradley 193-EA4DB. I also decided to go with "mag starter" style control. Momentary push-button that latches a relay, that in turns sends the run signal to the VFD. In the event of a power loss, VFD fault, or overcurrent trip the mag-starter releases.

You may want a door on the front so you can use the front panel knob (potentiometer) to fine tune the speed.

Skip Helms

02-15-2016, 4:06 PM

Thanks Pat, Maybe that comes in a future iteration.

Anthony; The motor is a Leeson 3/4 HP. I got it NOS from a man on Ebay $100 shipped. I could run 240v over but the 120v was what I always used for the press and it's right there. The VFD I got is for 120v so the die is cast. The tach is so I can get an accurate RPM reading. The Hz meter gives me what the motor is doing but not how fast the bit is spinning. For $13 (which includes shipping from China) you can get one of these guys:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291122353744...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/291122353744?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

And here are some ideas for installing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOuAl-sm2i8

I have a filter for the fan.

As to turning it off quickly, it's only ever had the two buttons on the front of the head. It takes accuracy and some force to turn it off now. I am leaving enough real estate behind the momentary switch button to install a mushroom switch. Since I can basically toggle the R-S-F switch manually, it's effectively a momentary anyway. Hmmm...

Here are a couple more vids on drill press mods including placement for a emergency switch. The depth-stop collar idea in the first one is worth the price of admission regardless of how the machine is wired.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UsuoWTe7xs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIEwVt3kswU

Thanks again and I hope others contribute. Now I have to crack that manual. The English is pretty good but it isn't a goals-based format. Wish me luck, sh

Anthony Whitesell

02-15-2016, 7:33 PM

Anthony; The motor is a Leeson 3/4 HP. I got it NOS from a man on Ebay $100 shipped. I could run 240v over but the 120v was what I always used for the press and it's right there. The VFD I got is for 120v so the die is cast.

With a 3/4HP motor, you will have more headroom. I quoted the values for a 1 HP motor.

As to turning it off quickly, it's only ever had the two buttons on the front of the head. It takes accuracy and some force to turn it off now. I am leaving enough real estate behind the momentary switch button to install a mushroom switch. Since I can basically toggle the R-S-F switch manually, it's effectively a momentary anyway. Hmmm...

Is the R-S-F switch momentary? Meaning when you switch it to Forward or reverse it springs back to stop?

Thanks again and I hope others contribute. Now I have to crack that manual. The English is pretty good but it isn't a goals-based format. Wish me luck, sh

Actually the manual is pretty good. Basics are presented at that level and there aren't 9000 parameters to wade through to find the ones you need to make it work the way you want. I actually like the various stop/run forward/reverse options available based on the parameter x = value. I have a Toshiba VF-S9. If it wasn't for working in automation with VFDs that manual and the parameters would have been very over whelming. I was lucky to have a headstart.

Your picture shows an external speed control input. Are you putting an external potentiometer or using the one on the face plate (cheaper, less parts, default setting). If you use an external potentiometer for the input, I would suggest (a) fuse protection between the 10V output and the pot and (b) use a model that is multi-turn. Most pots rotate only 270 degree from start to finish. There are some that will turn 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, or 100 turns. It increases resolution while reducing sensitivity. I think 2-5 turns would be fine, anything more would be overkill and you'd probably get tired of adjusting it. Also set the min and max frequency to 10 and 70 Hz, to prevent jogging and heat at low speed and loss of torque at high speed. For most motor-VFD combinations, the torque output drops off rapidly above 60-70 Hz.

Skip Helms

02-15-2016, 9:40 PM

The R-S-F switch is maintained.

You have a better feel for the instructions than me. I gave the manual a thorough once-through and never saw a section that reads: "if you want this, do this". The remote pot and R-S-F switches seem doable but emergency stopping and momentary completely escape me. It probably makes sense to use the VFD without any remotes until I get the hang of it and then wire them in one at a time.

If there is a definitive practical schematic out there, I hope it surfaces.

Cheers, Skip

Anthony Whitesell

02-15-2016, 10:03 PM

Actually, all the schematics you need for the basic operation are in the Teco manual (better than most). Feel free to sketch out the drawing on paper and post it here for a more detailed check. Better to check than blow up the VFD.

Pages 8 and 9 describe what each of the connections are for. For schematics, start with page 5 then jump to page 28 for the start/stop/forward/reverse wiring options. Also check out page 28.

For emergency stop, check out page 31 parameter F11-F15.

Personally I would not want to run a drill press based on wireless remotes.

Alan Schaffter

02-15-2016, 11:37 PM

I didn't see a need to get really exotic. I left the existing push buttons for main power (for VFD and tac lv pwr supply). Below the buttons, in an unused area of the existing plastic housing, I mounted the tac readout, a pot for speed control, and a small toggle sw for run/stop (no reverse- didn't see a need). I mounted the tac circuit board in the pulley housing and used a ribbon cable to remote mount the display. The VFD is mounted to a piece of sheet metal in back of the DP, below the motor. Except for the little toggle sw, I think the installation looks almost professional.

I purchased a multi-rotation pot for speed control but didn't use it. No need, no need for that level of speed control precision.

To get decent hp at low RPM (but at the cost of high end RPM), I set the belt gearing to turn the quill fairly slowly when the VFD is putting out 60 Hz. Before I did that, when running at low RPM, I could easily stop the rotation by grabbing the chuck with one hand! You can over-speed a motor with a VFD much easier than you can under-speed one. When you drop more than 20% of rated RPM (50 or 60 Hz) you quickly lose hp and can easily over-heat the motor. A VFD is not the end all, be all that many hope. Though a 1+ hp DC motor and controller can be very expensive, that or a DVR motor like NOVA uses in their new drill press are better choices.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/DP-7.JPG

Keith Weber

02-16-2016, 12:31 AM

I hate VFDs!

I used to get high-quality, 3-phase industrial machines for about 10-20 cents on the dollar for many years because not everybody could run them. Now VFDs are cheap enough that 3-phase machines are much more accessible to hobbyists. As such, the market reflects that. It is much harder to find a screaming deal on old industrial machines nowadays.

Erik Manchester

02-16-2016, 5:58 AM

Skip,

I have set up my General 340 15" press with a VFD as you describe. It has a machinist production table which I have covered with the wooden table from a former press (until I make one specifically for this one) and a foot feed so use of a foot switch is not practical.

http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx344/beletuen/Tools/General%20340%20Drill%20Press/IMG_20160126_175447_zpsrefsxn7y.jpg

I have the VFD receiving 240v single phase via a mag starter that I had in the rat hole and the motor switch on the press actuates the mag starter and powers the VFD. In my case, I tried setting up a Hall sensor with a remote RPM display and I found that the RPM display was erratic so I decided to go with the RPM display off the VFD instead as the motor and spindle pulleys are the same diameter.

This VFD is a Huanyang and is not a vector drive so low end torque might be an issue, however, I have another larger press that can do the low speed drilling of large holes, etc. I happened to have a 2 hp Baldor 3 phase motor on the shelf so that is what is on the press currently, though I have set the overloads to trip at 1 hp vice the rated 2 hp.

Good luck with your project.

Skip Helms

02-16-2016, 8:12 AM

I'll sketch-out what I have in mind and put it here in a day or two. It will be pretty conventional. All wired remotes. I plan to use CAT6 cable as the control wire from the box to the head. That will be inside some stainless steel dishwasher hose with the plastic tube removed. Shielded, tough and plenty of room for both the VFD wires and the tach cable (which will need to be lengthened a smidge). Everything else is done so I can start testing it after a last check for gotcha's.

Cheers, sh

Skip Helms

02-16-2016, 1:47 PM

I had a little time between appointments so I threw this together. Before I jump into the details:

1) I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel. I think these are common functions for VFD's and just want to do them right.
2) My research is cobbled from web surfing. I'm not married to any of it and am open to better ideas and
3) I deeply appreciate your help. I hope I can add more to the forum than questions in the future.

I've attached a sketch of what I have in mind. I used symbols for the power supply and layout diagrams for the controls. All of the power circuits are supplied through a series toggle switch that kills the 120v hot in. One circuit supplies the VFD and the others are for unrelated devices. That is effectively a kill power switch but I'm hoping to improve on that in a minute. All the power wiring is complete.

The wired-remotes I've imagined include: a maintained three-position, three-wire rotary Reverse-Stop-Forward switch. One side is N/O and the other is N/C but the middle position opens the circuit for both. I show it wired as a SPDT. I'm hoping the middle position is also effectively a full stop so I don't need a separate on/off. If I understand the manual (being charitable), the F4 function is set to 001.

The second device is a single-turn 2-watt linear 10k pot to control the hertz. That requires F5 to be set to 002. That's what I really need.

I have the momentary switch shown but I've almost talked myself out of that. Sounds cool but when would I use it? Seems like the R-S-F switch can do that ff you have to leave your hand on the control. Still, it would be nice to know how to install it.

In its place might be an E-switch. If I understand how VFDs work, killing the power just lets the rotor spin until it loses momentum. Both the main power toggle and the stop on the R-S-F switch would do that. But if your underwear is caught in the spindle, that's a long time. I'd want the E-switch to have the rapid-breaking feature that requires a powered slowdown. Not necessarily the optional power resistor circuit but as quickly as it can be programmed to stop. The mushroom switches I have in the drawer are one side N/O, one side N/C so they can be wired for almost any configuration. Twist on, push off.

One last fact; the press still has a fully-functional 4-step pulley arrangement. At the lowest speed, 60 hz with a 1725 RPM motor I get 680 RPM (theoretically) at the chuck. Changing the belt setting is easy and I see this as a way to drop the revolutions into the 250-350 range without taxing the motor or effectively disabling the internal fan. I can goose the RPM up conventionally leaving the hertz at 60 or fine-tune it within the sweet-spots between pulleys. I do use the #4 setting when I shape guitar neck profiles with a pattern drum sander but that isn't often. Most of the time I'm between 1 and 3 depending on the bit size and material.

That's as much as I've got. Thanks again for your help, sh

331852

Anthony Whitesell

02-16-2016, 6:37 PM

The wired-remotes I've imagined include: a maintained three-position, three-wire rotary Reverse-Stop-Forward switch. One side is N/O and the other is N/C but the middle position opens the circuit for both. I show it wired as a SPDT. I'm hoping the middle position is also effectively a full stop so I don't need a separate on/off. If I understand the manual (being charitable), the F4 function is set to 001.

The second device is a single-turn 2-watt linear 10k pot to control the hertz. That requires F5 to be set to 002. That's what I really need.

I have the momentary switch shown but I've almost talked myself out of that. Sounds cool but when would I use it? Seems like the R-S-F switch can do that ff you have to leave your hand on the control. Still, it would be nice to know how to install it.

In its place might be an E-switch. If I understand how VFDs work, killing the power just lets the rotor spin until it loses momentum. Both the main power toggle and the stop on the R-S-F switch would do that. But if your underwear is caught in the spindle, that's a long time. I'd want the E-switch to have the rapid-breaking feature that requires a powered slowdown. Not necessarily the optional power resistor circuit but as quickly as it can be programmed to stop. The mushroom switches I have in the drawer are one side N/O, one side N/C so they can be wired for almost any configuration. Twist on, push off.

331852

The 2W linear pot is a bit overkill, 10V/10K=1mA * 10V =10milliwatt. But it won't hurt and should be more temperature stable.

I haven't seen a rotary switch that is N/O-N/C, but there are many configurations available. All I have worked with are N/O-N/O (ON-OFF-ON), just like a regular SPDT switch.

I think your wiring is correct, but some of the parameters may need to be changed. I don't think F06=001 and F11=005 are the correct parameters.

F06=001 will provide run/stop as one input and fwd/rev as the other. Your description for the use of the switch is Fwd-Stop-Rev which would correspond to F006=000 (see page 28).

Parameters F11 through F14 correspond setting the function of the inputs S1 to S4. See page 18. The defaults are F11=001 FWD, F12=002 REV, F13=005 JOG, F14=006 ESTOP. I think these parameters are what you want (instead of F11=005 and F12=006), the wiring you have proposed corresponds to this.

Since you are using Pin 3 to source the signals to the input, you will be working in PNP mode and require SW1 to be set to PNP (see note in page 5).

M Toupin

02-16-2016, 6:54 PM

In its place might be an E-switch. If I understand how VFDs work, killing the power just lets the rotor spin until it loses momentum. Both the main power toggle and the stop on the R-S-F switch would do that. But if your underwear is caught in the spindle, that's a long time. I'd want the E-switch to have the rapid-breaking feature that requires a powered slowdown.

Actually just the opposite. The normal ON/OFF via a switch stops the VFD based on the deceleration time you set. So if your deceleration is set to 10 seconds and you get your underwear is caught in the spindle then the VFD will continue to drive the spindle around for the entire 10 seconds as it slows to a stop. That could be a bad thing especially inf you're wearing a thong! :eek:

A E-stop on the other hand kills all power to the motor and allows it to cost to a a stop. In that case if your underwear is caught in the spindle it'll stop as soon as it gets tight enough to overcome the motor/spindle inertia.

2 other things; get a sensorless vector drive. They are a bit more but have some low end torque compensation that helps on the low end. Second, all the gadgets like reverse, jog etc sound neat, but ask yourself if you'll actually use them? Other than the bragging rights there's no need to make things more complicated just for the sake of saying you did. I also thought I wanted reverse etc on mine but decided if I needed reverse I could just use the keypad. After 5+ years I've NEVER used it.

Here's some really crappy pics of the Delta 15-000 and the setup on the Walker Turner 900. It's hard to see but the control on the 15-000 is the same as the 900. From top to bottom, the green idiot light just shows when the VFD has power, the lever switch is a CAM switch which powers the VFD on/off, bottom is a 270 pot for speed control. The original DP on/off switches were re-purposed to control the motor via the low voltage controls on the VFD.
331908331909331907
Mike

Skip Helms

02-16-2016, 9:23 PM

Anthony Whitesell

02-17-2016, 5:45 AM

I'm not sure how much time I can give this over the next couple days but thanks for the input. M Toupin, all the parts are purchased. The install is complete except for the remote controls.

Edit: Anthony, in looking at page 28, the first PNP (F06 = 000) example is pretty much the switch I've got. The manufacturer calls it NO/NC but it can be wired NO/OFF/NO by tying the poles together.

I've attached another diagram showing my switch with the poles connected and an extra node between the two "S" terminals representing the middle no-connection position. When the switch is to the left, power engages the reverse function. In the middle position, both switches are open -- essentially "STOP". To the right, the forward command works.

Any reason this wouldn't be the same as separate on/off and forward/reverse switches? sh

331917

The difference between start/stop-fwd/rev and fwd-stop-rev has to do with a combination of the programming of the inputs and the way the switch works. As you mentioned the rotary switch is essentially a SPDT switch, where only one side or the other can be connected at a time. From your new diagram you have either input S1 OR S2. This would allow you to use F06=000 per page 28.

If you used two separate SPST switches, one for start/stop and one for fwd/rev, then F06=001 would apply. To run fwd, close S1 and open S2. To run reverse, close S1 AND close S2. Therein lies the problem with using the SPDT switch (or the 3pos rotary you have). You can't close both S1 and S2 at the same time, so you can not issue the start input and the reverse input at the same time. Using the 3pos rotary switch would allow you three options: (1) start fwd, (2) stop fwd, and (3) stop reverse (S1 closed/S2 open, S1 and S2 open, S1 open/S2 closed).

Skip Helms

02-17-2016, 10:25 AM

Sorry to be so thick. Why would you want Forward and Reverse on at the same time? In the manual it say that results in "stopped mode". I was hoping that when neither of them are on they are also in stopped mode. Other than that, this is a garden-variety on-off-on toggle switch. In the left position, Reverse is on and Forward is off. In the middle position, neither of them is on. In the right position, Forward is on and Reverse is off.

What am I missing here? Thanks, sh

Dick Strauss

02-17-2016, 10:44 AM

Skip,
I've wired plenty of VFDs the way you suggest with a three position switch. Make sure that both contact blocks for the for/rev are normally open (NO). Run DC source wires to feed both blocks. For/rev will both have their own separate connection and wire at the VFD. The middle position acts as a stop since neither the for or rev VFD connections are seeing voltage because of the NO contact blocks for For/Rev. You will need to change the VFD settings to account for this setup.

Skip Helms

02-17-2016, 1:08 PM

Anthony Whitesell

02-17-2016, 3:12 PM

Anthony Whitesell

02-17-2016, 3:15 PM

Thanks Dick, One more mystery solved.

I've bailed on the idea of a momentary switch but I'm thinking maybe an E-switch would be a good choice -- maybe at knee level like on my table-saw. I'm making some headway in the manual and what I think I know is that if you use the S3 terminal on F13 set at 005, you can program emergency stop deceleration independent of the regular stop speed on F4. If that's not the case -- or if it doesn't really matter -- it would be just as easy to park a N/C switch on the DC supply wire upstream of the R-S-F switch.

Once I get that in my brain, it will be time to start smoke testing this bad boy.

Cheers, sh

F13 does set the function for S3, but 005 is jog. 006 is estop and is preconfigured for S4 on F14. (1) I would stick with your schematic as drawn, it looks good so far (besides, perhaps some incorrectly noted parameters). And (2) I prefer to change as few settings as possibly; that way when it dies, I don't have to figure out as many to enter into the new VFD.

I wonder if we are looking at the same manual. Could be trouble if we aren't. (wondering about your reference to F4 above).

According to the manual at https://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/ev_operating_manual.pdf
Page 31 states for F11-14 set to 006 to indicate Estop input:
"Upon receiving an external Emergency Stop signal the inverter will decelerate to a stop by thevalue set by C12, the 2nd deceleration time setting regardless of the F09 deceleration settingand the display will flash ―E.S‖. The inverter will restart only when the Emergency Stop signalis removed and the start signal is removed and re-asserted (remote mode), or the Run key ispushed (keypad mode). Removing the Emergency Stop signal before the inverter has fullystopped will not cancel the Emergency Stop operation. The output relay can be set toEmergency Stop fault by setting F21=008."

And on page 44 C12 has this neat reference:
"C12 Deceleration time 2 (s): 00.1 – 999 (Always used for emergency Stop reference)"

Skip Helms

02-18-2016, 9:58 AM

I have two of these switches. One has two contact blocks and the other only one. Individually, they act like a NO/off/NO switch. In the center position there is no continuity between between any of the contacts. I think the NC/NO designation is for use with multiple contact blocks with multiple functions. For my purposes, I could have used a mini-toggle on-off-on but I like the idea of needing some deliberate attention to change the operating status. You can't accidentally turn this switch on or off. I may even stick a little bolt into the face so I can't activate reverse unless I know I want to -- the hillbilly equivalent of separate F/R and Run/off switches. So the one-block switch will work fine here.

Anthony: I really appreciate your patience. I'm on page 31 now and see the 006 E-stop designation. So S4 on F14 it is. I need to do a second ergonomic pantomime where the drill press will actually be to see where to put the switch. Not on the head. I've got a switch there. Certainly not on the panel -- to close to the work area. Probably on the radial arm saw which is immediately to the right. I'll be trying to get my hands away from any problems so a backhand slap on the base of the saw is within quick reach. I'm pretty sure I have some 2-conductor shielded wire in the bin. I built a lot of guitar amps and always have leftovers to justify building another one (can't let it go to waste now, can we?).

The main shield idea I got from the Jack English videos. It is a stainless steel shrouded dishwasher hose. The ID is only about 5/16" so I lopped off the ends, pulled the tube and fitted a 1/2" IP fitting on with a hose-clamp. The donor fitting hose came with a brass nipple so I get excellent continuity to the main panel box. The shield squishes-down to half its original length so no guessing on the exact size. My press has an internal channel in the casting for just that sized cable so I can run all the control wires and the tach cable inside it right to the junction box on the head.

The linear actuator controls are also in the panel box. I think I mentioned this press was made before new-fangled table-height cranks. You have to loosen the bolt and finesse it (and whatever's on it) into position. In studying the issue a lot of people said this was hard on their backs. I haven't noticed that so much but the bigger issue is that you really have to lay into the bolt to get it to hold position. Now that I've de-rusted the pillar, it's even slipperier. I was able to get a Duff-Norton 12" 120v unit on Ebay for forty-something dollars because someone at the factory over-tightened one of the bolts and cracked a pot-metal flange on the housing. Usually they go for $350. With some U-bolts and pipe fittings I think I have a solid base. I'll get some pictures up after the grand opening. It will double as an extension for the RA saw at the right height.

I think I can get to smoke test over the weekend. Wish me luck, sh

Dick Strauss

02-18-2016, 10:49 AM

I use an e-stop, for/stop/rev, and a speed pot in a box with magnetic attachment points that can be remotely placed on the tool where it best suits me given what I'm doing at the time. It also allows me to use one VFD for mutliple tools at different times if I choose to do so.

Just my two cents...

Skip Helms

02-18-2016, 1:20 PM

Dick, how do you wire the E-stop? Thanks, sh

Anthony Whitesell

02-18-2016, 2:25 PM

Typically emergency stop switches are normally closed, supplying a positive signal to the input terminal. In this way, if the wire to the estop switch breaks, the "OK" signal will be lost and the equipment will be shutdown. Ie., broken wire and estop press has the same result of lost signal at the input terminal. I would hope this VFD works the same way, though I see no indication in the TECO manual is the estop switch should be NO or NC. On the bright side, you can't blow up the VFD if you get it wrong. The display will show ES and the VFD will not run.

Skip Helms

02-19-2016, 9:50 AM

I ran the first smoke test last night but without the remote controls. Almost everything worked perfectly. The un-perfect part was that I have a noisy bearing in the pulley assembly. My old motor needed new bearings too. With a silent new motor, it was easy to isolate. I took that apart (with some persuasion) and one of the two 3205 bearings had that tell-tale metal-on-metal sound. It still works but I can't see putting this much work into the project and listening to that.

The lower bearing seems fine and the spindle is still smooth as silk. Fortunately, this model press uses bearings that are still made although they aren't cheap if purchased retail. There seem to be lots of NOS first-world units available so I'm investigating that now. There is also a firm here in NC that rebuilds Delta bearing packs and spindles at what seem like very reasonable prices.

While surfing I found this video. Other than the poster starting with 220v 1-phase input, this is exactly what I had in mind originally. The E-switch idea is new.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eZjcDUaxnw

My little saga will take a break while I get the mechanical issues fixed. Then I'll be back with more information. As always, thanks to all, sh
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eZjcDUaxnw)

Skip Helms

02-29-2016, 6:12 PM

Thanks for your patience. The project is done with the exception of leveling the base. Like the proverbial throwing spaghetti against the fridge, the manual finally stuck. Unfortunately, the tach doesn't work. It lights up but that's it. I ordered another one. It needed at least one new pulley bearing.

The control box has the tach display and a window to the VFD display. To the left is a master on/off switch that controls the power to all circuits. On the right is a momentary switch that controls the linear actuator for the table. Inside (sorry for the shaky picture) the 120v juice is spread around to the VFD (by way of a surge suppressor), the actuator, a muffin fan and two wall warts. One of those is for the tach and a late addition is for a gooseneck LED lamp. On the head of the press is the R-S-F switch, a speed pot and a jog button. The last works by knocking the pot down to 0-RPM, choosing forward or reverse and presetting the jog speed in either direction.

Attached are three pictures of the electronics and two of the actuator. It is easy to disconnect if I need to swing the table -- although I'll remember to not leave it at crotch level the next time I do. I used a U-bolt through iron pipe fittings for the table attachment. In the near future I'll make a woodworking table but, to be honest, a butcher block is usually all I need. The new motor is heavier than the old and I'll need to figure some way to mount it more solidly than with the single hinge pin. In the second slowest setting is is pretty quiet but at the lowest there is a rattle.

Things I learned:

a) leave enough signal wire for connecting the remote controls,
b) do better research,
c) calculate the depth of the box shutting mechanism before mounting the VFD. A magnet behind the door works fine, though,
d) anticipate what needs to be drilled before tearing the machine apart and
e) use loose wires from the guts to the door controls. You need more flex than you get with heavy 4-conductor cable.

That's about it. Thanks to all for your help and good luck with your own projects. sh

PS: My uploads are failing. It might be having just switched to Windows 10. I'll get them up when the computer is more reasonable. sh